HOW TO GET REFERRED TO FOUR SEASONS HOLISTIC VETERINARY CARE
STEP 1
Email health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk for a referral form and price list.
It helps if you can include a brief desciption of the problem, and your location.
STEP 2
Ensure health@holisticvetsussex is marked as a safe address so that the reply does not end up in spam!
STEP 3
Fill out the owner section of the referral form, then ask you primary care vet to complete the rest, and email it to health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk with relevant history.
STEP 4
When the referral form and history are recieved you will be contacted with a choice of home visit appointment times by email.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS IS A ONE-PERSON PRACTICE. I AIM TO REPLY WITHIN 48 HOURS, EXCEPT AT WEEKENDS AND HOLIDAYS. IN AN EMERGENCY CONTACT YOUR PRIMARY CARE VET.
Alternatively, download the referral form here https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:sc:EU:0e7487e4-7af5-4552-a672-4b6473ad85c3
VET FEES TO FALL?
YOU’VE SEEN THE HEADLINES, NOW READ THE TRUTH!
The Competition and Markets Authority has spent ages investigating where there was a lack of competition in the veterinary field leading to pet owners being ripped off.
They have broadly found that there is sufficient competition, but that veterinary services are complicated and expensive.
They have made some recommendations, the key ones being:
Price Transparency: Vets must display standard fees for common services and provide written estimates for treatments over £500.
Prescription Access: Vets must inform owners they can buy medicines elsewhere and offer a written prescription.
Prescription Fee Caps: £21 for the first medicine and £12.50 for additional items.
Ownership Disclosure: Practices must clearly disclose whether they are independent or part of a large corporate group.
Improved Information: The Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons (RCVS) will enhance its “Find a Vet” site to include price data.
Complaints Handling: Implementation clearer procedures for clients to complain about service or fees.
WILL VET PRICES DECREASE?
Nothing in the recommendations will mean lower prices. Prescritions have been available for a long time and certainly can save you money on some medications. But soon vets will have to offer you one every time they see you…you’re going to get bored of this!
The need to give pricing data to the RCVS may mean more practices move to fixed price packages for their routine procedures. This approach can have winners and losers, but makes it easy for owners to compare prices and vets to give estimates. A word of caution though; make sure you are comparing like with like. The new system shoudl let you see what’s included (like a car insuracne website) but beware of hidden extras. Also remember that some practices may have vets and nurses with advanced levels of training which could impact outcomes. I still believe the best vet is one your trust, no matter the price on the board.
Extra regulation almost never means cheaper prices…
WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR FOUR SEASONS HOLISTIC VETERINARY CARE?
Honestly, we don’t know. We are so independent that it’s just me. I do also work for Companion Care Vets Eastbourne (which is part of The Vet Group, but locally owned and managed).
We have our price list displayed and will let you know how much herbal tonics will cost per day if they are recommended, we don’t write prescriptions or sell conventional medications, we work on referral with your primary care vet being responsible for ensuring you have access to out of hours care. We will make a page outlining a complaints procedure, but we hope you would bring up any concerns during the time we spend in your living room. So far, so good… but we could face a £500 charge to be regulated as a veterinary business, and that would be hard to absorb.
IF THE CMA INVESTIGATION IS OVER, WHY ARE WE STILL TALKING ABOUT CHANGE?
Hot on the heels of the CMA investigation has come a plan to reform the Veterinary Surgeons Act. This legislation dates from 1966 and a lot has changed! Vets have been asking for reform for as long as I have been in practice and longer.
Areas likely to be covered include regulation of businesses as well as individual vets, regulation of paraprofessionals (e.g. physiotherapists, behaviourists, and horse dentists), and protection of the title Veterinary Nurse.
WILL VSA REFORM LOWER PRICES?
Again, probably not. Most vets are businesses and in a free market they can set the fees they want. It is unlikely the RCVS would be given the power to say a vet was charging too much, unless they had failed to be honest and open about costs. More regulation will cost more money, and a micro business like mine can’t absorb those costs.
HOW DO I KEEP MY VET BILLS LOW?
We are glad you asked! If you keep your pet health through a good diet and preventative healthcare, then you shouldn’t be a frequent flier at the vets. Make use of monthly plans that spread the cost of vaccines and parasite control, and look out for offers like free nurse dental checks.
If you notice changes in your pet, seek advice sooner rather than later… a stitch in time and all that.
And ask about treatment options. Surgery miight offer the fastest fix, but rest and rehab is sometimes an option, especially with older pets. Just a quick plug, we have a good success rate in conservative management of cruciate disease and disc disease…
WHY DOES MY PET HAVE TO BE REFERRED?
Why does your pet need to be registered with a primary care vet, and why does that vet need to refer them before a consultation can take place?
Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care offers complementary therapies for your pet in your home. We do not have a clinic where we can offer routine treatments, diagnostic testing, or emergency care.
To meet RCVS requirements, your pet must have access to emergency care via your primary care practice.
I need to work with primary care vets, as patients often need radiography, blood tests, or conventional medications as part of their Holistic care, and I value the work the primary care vet has done with your pet.
Referral is simple! Request a referral form, fill out the owner section, then pass to your vet to complete. Your vet should email the form to me with any relevant clinical history. In return, I email your vet a copy of each consultation we have so that they are kept up to date with progress.
As I am usually on the road or treating pets, I prefer contact by text (07958142959) or email (health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk)
I am unable to discuss a case by phone until I have a referral form.
HOW DO I TEACH MY DOG TO BE HAPPY LEFT ALONE?
Dogs are social animals, and that’s why they fit into human families so well. Dogs are thought to have been our companions for over 30,000 years, more than 10,000 years longer than horses. Throughout most of our shared history dogs have lived, worked, and slept alongside us as hunters, guards, and pest controllers, but modern life means they must spend an increasing amount of time on their own.
RSPCA research in 2019 suggested that as many as 85% of dogs showed some signs of distress when left alone by their owners. With some ‘lockdown puppies’ still struggling, this figure may now be even higher. Dogs that are unhappy when left alone may be described as having separation anxiety, separation distress, and many behaviourists use the term separation related disorders to cover the complex range of symptoms that they see.
HOW DO I KNOW IF MY DOG IS SUFFERING FROM A SEPARATION DISORDER?
It is normal for your dog to want to come with you when they leave the house. If your dog has been properly habituated to being left, they will quickly settle on their bed. Adult dogs should sleep for 12-14 hours a day, so your workday is an ideal time for them to nap. You should come home to a dog who is happy to see you, and maybe evidence of playing with toys, but not to a scene of devastation.
Signs that your dog is not coping with being left alone include:
Noise
You may not be aware that your dog is noisy when you are out, so ask your neighbours if they hear your dog during the day. Barking is often triggered by movement or noise outside but may become excessive without a human give to reassurance. Howling is a form of communication and can be an attempt to call out to other dogs and humans. Whining can be heard with excitement, but if your dogs is alone, it is more likely to indicate anxiety or frustration.
House soiling
Dogs do not urinate and defaecate in the house because they are angry at being left, but they may lose control of their bladder or bowel if they are particularly distressed. House soiling can also bee seen if dogs are not let out frequently enough. Because emptying a full bladder leads to relief from mild physical discomfort, some dogs urinate as a form of psychological stress relief.
Destruction
Chewing is an innately relaxing activity for dogs and one which happy dogs will engage in when left alone, but stressed dogs may also chew in an effort to calm themselves. Distressed dogs may scratch doors and skirting boards in an attempt to escape confinement and may rip up toys and soft furnishings out of frustration.
Pet cameras have become affordable and allow you to see how your dog behaves when you leave. Pacing, trembling, panting (when it isn’t hot), yawning (when not sleepy), lip licking, and frequent changes of position all suggest that your dog is anxious and unsettled without your comforting presence. Some dogs may react by lying very still without relaxing or sleeping or may try to get onto your bed or sofa to comfort themselves with your scent.
WHY IS MY DOG STRUGGLING WITH BEING LEFT ALONE?
Dogs naturally live in social groups, which is why they fit so well into human families. Unless a dog is taught to cope with being left alone from early puppyhood, it is almost inevitable that they will feel a degree of stress, anxiety, boredom, and loneliness. Separation related disorders including separation anxiety have always been a problem for dogs, but many pet professional think the problem has increased since lockdown.
The Coronavirus lockdowns led to increased separation problems for several reasons. Existing dogs got used to their humans being at home more with children being home schooled, adults working from home, and others on furlough or shielding. Many families thought lockdown would be an ideal time to add a canine companion to their family, and a generation of puppies have never been left alone. Many companies now want to end or reduce working from home so the effects are still to come for some dogs.
Some dogs which have previously been fine on their own develop separation distress due to a bad experience such as someone trying to get into the house (even if it is only a delivery person!) or loud noises such as fireworks or thunder. Others start to show symptoms due to bereavement after an animal companion dies, even if they didn’t get on. Some dogs are simply bored as their physical and mental needs are not being met even when the family is at home.
Dogs suffering from medical conditions, particularly painful ones, may also show changed behaviour, including separation problems. Dogs can even find the end of the school summer holidays a challenge as their routine changes abruptly.
HOW DO I TRAIN MY DOG TO BE HAPPY WHEN LEFT ALONE?
Train your dog to go to their bed or into a crate and reward them with a tasty treat. If your dog chooses to go to their bed during training without being told make sure to reward their positive behaviour.
Treats should make up no more than 10% of your dog’s daily food intake to avoid unbalancing their diet. You can do this training at dinner time, using your dog’s food as a reward and letting them finish the meal in bed. You are trying to build a positive feeling with being on the bed.
Once your dog is happy to go to their bed ask them to ‘settle’ and take a step away. Reward your dog for staying on their bed.
Slowly build up the time your dog stays on the bed before getting a reward, and then how far away you go. If your dog appears uncomfortable or gets off the bed do not punish them but go back a step.
When you feel your dog is ready you can try to leave the room. Do this in small stages staying outside the room for just a second to start with. Once you can spend a small amount of time out of sight, start to close the door.
At this stage it can be useful to use a remote treat dispenser allowing you to reward your dog for settling on their bed without delivering it yourself.
Build up the length of time your dog spends with the door closed. You can give a food stuffed chew toy to make time alone a really positive experience. If you have a pet camera, use it to make sure your dog is really ok when you are out of the room.
If closing the door is too much for your dog, use a baby gate to start with so that your dog can get used to spending time on their own while they are still able to see and smell you.
Should I walk my dog before leaving them alone?
Your dog is more likely to settle when left if their physical and mental needs have been met. A walk before you leave your dog will allow them to urinate and defaecate, but also provides an opportunity to sniff, and maybe to play and run. If you can’t fit in a decent walk, try some scent work or toy hunting as these are very tiring games.
Do not try to exercise your dog to exhaustion as this may lead to them drinking a lot of water and needing to urinate before you get home! Give your dog some food before you leave as they are more likely to sleep after eating. You can give some of the food stuffed into a robust chew toy for extra entertainment and stress busting chewing.
HOW DO I PRACTISE LEAVING MY DOG?
Ideally start leaving your dog in the house on their own for very short periods of time before you need to leave them for real. Ensure all their needs have been met and that they are safe and secure. Leave calmly without making a fuss just as you have been doing during your earlier training.
Consider using an indoor pen to keep your dog away from doors and windows if passers-by trigger their barking. Leaving the TV or radio on can comfort some dogs and will mask sounds from outside. Routine can reassure your dog so start developing a routine during training.
What do I do if my dog has damaged things while I was out?
Do not punish your dog if you find that they have damaged your house or belongings, or if they have urinated or defaecated indoors. Shouting or punishment will increase your dog’s anxiety as they will connect it to your return, not to the damage they have caused. Try to remain calm and casual when you come in, whether you have been out for a minute or a few hours but let your dog out into the garden so they can go to the toilet.
How long can I leave my dog alone?
There is no hard and fast rule for how long a dog can be left. The RSPCA recommend no longer than four hours, but older dogs and puppies need more frequent opportunities to go to the toilet. If you need to leave your dog longer than four hours arrange for a friend or pet care professional to visit during the day to let them out. Make sure your dog has met your helper with you and that the helper understands your routines and training.
If your dog remains unable to cope with being left alone visit your vet to rule out medical conditions. A pet behaviourist may be able to help by offering an individual assessment and treatment plan. If all else fails, the use of a pet sitter or day boarding may work for you and your dog.
Calming products that can help alleviate stress for your dog
There are supplements and pheromone products which can help your dog to feel more relaxed at home. Collars and diffusers are useful during training, with calming spot-ons, tablets, and chews to add to the calming effect when you are going out. Chews and treats should be given under supervision.
Summary – How to help a dog with separation issues
Most dogs will suffer from some degree of distress when left alone unless they are trained to cope. It is easiest to avoid separation problems if you make leaving your dog for short periods of time part of your routine as soon as they are settled in your home.
Separation problems may be seen when your work patterns change, when another pet dies, if your dog has been scared at home, or due to medical conditions. Lockdown has caused sudden and dramatic changes in the number of people at home and has increased the number of dogs suffering from separation related disorders.
If your dog is still struggling with being left alone visit your vet to rule out any health problems. If no health problems are found contact a pet behaviourist for an individualised assessment and therapy plan. Consider alternative arrangement such as a pet sitter or day boarding.
ACUPUNCTURE FOR PETS
DOES ACUPUNCTURE WORK FOR PETS?
Acupuncture is the most common reason for Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care to see a pet. We see improvement in most of our acupuncture cases. Acupuncture is supported by review articles and case studies in veterinary literature, as well as being approved by NICE for use in some conditions on the NHS (for humans!).
HOW DOES ACUPUNCTURE WORK?
Acupuncture has several effects on the body. Insertion of the thin surgical steel needles causes an increase in local blood flow which helps to stimulate tissue healing. Acupuncture can stimulate the release of endorphins which make the pet feel good and relieve pain. Acupuncture can also alter pain perception at the spinal cord and brain level.
Traditional Acupuncture talks about meridians and the flow of chi, which can sound unscientific. However, the traditional meridians follow the path of nerves and blood vessels through the body, and chi means energy. If we then think of acupucture improving blood flow to provide oxygen to tissues and stimulating nerves which work through electrical pulses, then acupuncture doesn’t sound so magical!
WHAT CONDITIONS IN PETS CAN ACUPUNCTURE TREAT?
At Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care we mainly treat acute and chronic musculoskeletal pain cases using acupuncture. We have also had success with lick granulomas, and bowel and bladder conditions. Although acupuncture has been reported to help a wide range of conditions we find herbs and diet more effective for many diseases.
WILL MY PET ALLOW ACUPUNCTURE?
If you have a pet who will allow strangers to touch them and who can stay quiet for around 15 minutes after needle placement then we can try acupuncture. There are needle placements that are useful for anxious or fidgety animals. Although dogs are our most frequent patients, we have used acupuncture successfully in cats and rabbits.
CAN ACUPUNCTURE HELP MY PET?
If your pet has a muscle injury or osteoarthritis acupuncture is very likely to help. Results are less consistent for neurological, skin, endocrine, and metablic conditions. If we see no response after three sessions we would recommend looking at other therapies.
ARE THERE ANY RISKS TO MY PET FROM ACUPUNCTURE?
The risks from acupuncture treatment are low. Pain during needle insertion and bleeding from the needling site are uncommon unwanted effects. Pets can feel sleepy after treatment and some human patients report nausea or fainting, but I have never seen an animal patient be sick or faint.
WHAT HAPPENS DURING AN ACUPUNCTURE SESSION?
At the first session I will meet your pet, go over the history, and make a hands on assessment. If I think acupuncture will be useful the first treatment can be given in the same session. Initial appointments are around 1 hour, with subsequent appointments lasting around 30minutes, each with up to 15minutes treatment time.
HOW DO I BOOK ACUPUNCTURE FOR MY PET?
Email health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk for a referral form and current price list. Your pet must be under the care of a primary care veterinary practice who have out of hours arrangements. Once the referral form is returned we will book a mutually convenient time for a home visit and assessment.
MUZZLE TRAINING YOUR DOG
Why do dog’s wear muzzles?
Often the first thing that springs to mind when someone sees a dog wearing a muzzle is that the dog must be vicious, but there are many reasons why a dog might be wearing a muzzle. A dog wearing a muzzle might be:
- Prone to eating things they shouldn’t or on a strict diet for medical reasons.
- More likely to bite due to fear or pain.
- Required to wear a muzzle by law, for example if they are exempt banned breed or for any breed travelling on public transport in some countries.
- To prevent a dog catching wildlife.
- For a visit to the vet or groomers.
When muzzles are used on fearful dogs it is important to remember that they won’t make the dog feel better or safer. They should be used as a ‘safety net’ during training to help the dog feel more relaxed. If your dog snaps out of fear in any situation consult your vet and a behaviourist about how you can help them feel better.
It is beneficial for all dogs to be trained to wear a muzzle just in case one is needed. If a dog has previously worn a muzzle and had a good experience this reduces their stress when one is needed compared to wrestling a muzzle onto a scared dog in an emergency. Muzzle training can be a fun game if approached in the right way (see later).
What is the right style of muzzle for my dog?
There are two main sorts of muzzle available: basket muzzles and fabric muzzles.
Fabric muzzles fit the nose very snuggly and must only be worn under direct supervision for a short period of time. They are most commonly used for short veterinary or grooming tasks and some dogs seem to calm down when they are applied. Dogs can take small treats through a fabric muzzle, and they can also give you a nasty nip!
Basket muzzles are more suitable for wearing for longer periods and give more protection against bites. There are some designs only suited for short term wear (such as at the vets) as they give limited room for panting but do allow the dog to take treats and to drink. Muzzles designed to allow full panting room used to only be available for racing dogs like whippets and greyhounds but designs for all face shapes including bull breeds are now becoming more common.
If you need your dog to be able to wear a muzzle for longer periods including exercise and in the car ensure the design allows them to pant, drink, take treats, and vomit. Make sure the muzzle doesn’t restrict breathing or vision and is comfortable for your dog to wear. Some brachycephalic breeds like Pugs and French Bulldogs can be particularly tricky to find a comfortable and safe muzzle for so consult your vet for advice.
When measuring your dog for a muzzle, measure from the tip of their nose to just below their eyes and the widest part of the nose. Allow at least 1cm between the end of your dog’s nose and the muzzle. Make sure the straps will prevent the muzzle coming off, but don’t dig into your dog. You should be able to slide a finger comfortably under the straps.
How do I Train my dog to wear a muzzle?
It is easiest to muzzle train a dog if they have not previously had bad experiences. If your dog is already shy about being touched on the face, has any pain issues with their mouth, face or ears, or if they are aggressive around treats you need to speak to your vet and a behaviourist before starting muzzle training.
There are many different ways to muzzle train your dog. If your dog hasn’t had a bad experience you might want to start with an actual muzzle straight away. If your dog has previously had poor experiences with muzzle start with a yogurt pot with some holes in the bottom.
Assemble everything you will need in a quiet, familiar, distraction free space. Plan for short training sessions several times a week and always end with success. Repeat each stage several times until you are sure your dog is ready to move on.
You will need: a muzzle or plastic pot with holes, tasty treats, a clicker (optional).
- Bring out the pot or muzzle, immediately give your dog a treat (after using the clicker or a marker word like ‘good’). Repeat until your dog is anticipating a treat when the muzzle appears.
- Place a treat in the pot/muzzle. If your dog moves towards the muzzle click/mark and give a treat. Some dogs will stick their nose straight in, others may get closer in stages.
- Once your dog is putting their nose into the muzzle you can hold the treat outside and pop it in once the nose is in.
- When your dog is confidently sticking their nose in the muzzle for a few seconds add a word which you can use as a cure for them, ‘muzzle’ ‘party hat’ ‘nose cone’… it doesn’t matter what word you choose but be consistent.
Once your dog is happy to have their nose in the pot/ muzzle for a reasonable period of time before a treat, the next step is to fasten the strap. Some dogs don’t like this so you may need to work on it separately.
- Make the neck strap into a big loop and hold it so the dog can see. Click/mark and give a treat.
- Hold a treat near the loop, click and treat.
- Hold the treat on the other side so the dogs puts their nose through… click and treat.
- Move the treat so the dog puts their neck through.
- Once your dog is happy to put their neck through lift up the muzzle and ask them to stick their nose in for a reward.
- Once the nose is in, gradually tighten the neck loop.
- Slowly build up the length of time your dog wears the muzzle. They should wear it for things they enjoy such as sofa snuggles, grooming, trick training, and then out on walks.
During training it is important not to overfeed! You can use some of your dog’s normal food, or choose small, tasty treats cut into small pieces.
Dogs might feel anxious the first time they meet people and dogs whilst wearing their muzzle as they can’t communicate with their facial expressions as effectively. If possible, do some training sessions with other friendly dogs around to build their confidence. At all times during training monitor your dog for signs of stress.
What do I do if my dog tries to remove the muzzle?
If your dog starts pawing at the muzzle during training, it is likely that you have gone too fast and skipped a few stages. Go back to the last point your dog seemed comfortable and build up more slowly.
If your dog occasionally tried to remove the muzzle on walks, instead of telling them off try asking for a behaviour they can do such as sit or give paw to distract them, and so you can pay out a tasty reward.
If your dog has been good in their muzzle but then starts trying to get it off check carefully for damage to the muzzle or skin irritation that could be making it uncomfortable to wear.
Using a muzzle in an emergency
Sometimes during muzzle training it will be necessary for your dog to wear a muzzle even though they are not fully comfortable and this risks setting back your training. Situations where this might be necessary include a vet, behaviourist, or groomer visit. In these cases, try to use a different type of muzzle to the one you are training with, and go back several stages on your next training session.
WORMING PUPPIES AND KITTENS
The Importance of Worming Puppies and Kittens
Pregnant cats and dogs can pass roundworms (Toxacara) to their offspring through the placenta before the puppies or kittens are even born. Further infection can then take place through the milk, grooming, and from the mother’s coat. Pregnancy hormones stimulate roundworms which have been encysted in body tissues to migrate.
Larvae present in the puppy or kitten at birth will develop into adult worms by the time the puppy or kitten is two weeks old. Roundworms can cause abdominal pain, diarrhoea, stunted growth, and a pot-bellied appearance. Puppies and kittens may not pass worms in the faeces, even with a heavy infestation.
A severe roundworm infection can be debilitating, and sometimes fatal, for a young animal. Added to the risk for the pet, infected puppies and kittens can shed eggs into the environment which can infect children. Toxacara can cause serious health conditions in children including blindness and liver damage.
Common types of Worms
Roundworms
There are two species of roundworm affecting cats and dogs: Toxacara canis and Toxascarais leonin. They grow into long spaghetti-like worms which absorb nutrients from the puppy or kitten. Roundworms can hide in body tissues (encyst) which can make them difficult to completely eradicate.
Tapeworms
Tapeworms live in the small intestine and absorb nutrients from food as it is digested. They have a row of sharp teeth which grip onto the gut wall and can grow to over 15cm in length! Tapeworms reproduce by shedding segments which pass out in the faeces. These segments look like rice grains and are sometimes seen in a pets’ fur.
Hookworms
These are short blood sucking worms which can be fatal to puppies and kittens. They are less common in the UK than in Europe.
Whipworms
Again, a less common worm in the UK. These live in the large intestine and are less likely to cause health problems.
Lungworm
Contracted from the infected slime of slugs and snails, lungworm is a problem for dogs in the UK. It can cause persistent coughing but can also cause fatal bleeding disorders.
Signs your Puppy or Kitten has Worms.
Assume that your new puppy or kitten comes with worms! There may be no signs of worm infection if your puppy or kitten has a light infection.
Heavier infections may cause diarrhoea, poor weight gain, a poor coat, lethargy, and a pot-bellied appearance. Advanced cases can cause constipation by blocking the gut. In some cases, puppies and kittens will vomit roundworms or pass them in the faeces.
How to Prevent Worms in Puppies and Kittens
When rehoming a puppy or kitten, you should ask to see records of the worming that the breeder or rescue organisation has carried out. It is usual for at least two courses of worming medication to be given before a puppy or kitten is 8 weeks old.
When you take your puppy or kitten for their first health check and vaccination, your vet will be able to advise on an ongoing worming schedule. Most will advise monthly roundworm treatment and tapeworm treatment every 3 months.
If lungworm is a risk for dogs in your area you will need a prescription lungworm treatment from your vet. Theses should be given once a month.
Puppies and kittens usually come with a few fleas too, which are not only irritating but can also spread tapeworm. Fleas can be infected with tapeworm eggs, which the puppy or kitten then ingests during grooming. Clever, but gross!
Keep your new puppy or kitten flea free with some of the following products:
Clean up after your Pet
Even if your pet is regularly wormed, it remains the responsible thing to do to clean up after them. Puppy owners should always take poop bags with them and dispose of dog waste in a bin. Kitten owners should encourage their pets to use indoor or outdoor litter trays to reduce the risk of contaminating garden soil, especially with the popularity of home vegetable growing!
Interestingly fresh pet faeces have a very low risk of causing infection in humans, with the eggs of some species only becoming infective after as long as a month outside the body. Even so, washing your hands (or using a hand sanitizer gel if out and about) is highly recommended.
Correct disposal of pet waste is also vital to reduce environmental contamination with chemicals that can kill beneficial invertebrates as well as pet parasites. Bag and bin!
Eco Alternatives?
The best alternative to routine worming of puppies and kittens is worm egg counting. A laboratory can test a faecal sample allowing you to target your use of worming products. As puppies and kitten have lower immunity to parasites, testing should be done monthly until they are six months old.
Herbal products are available which can reduce the risk of your new pet getting a parasite burden, but they are not able to clear a heavy infection. Adding diatomaceous earth to your puppy or kitten’s diet is unlikely to help prevent or treat intestinal parasites.
Our vet loves talking to new puppy and kitten owners about a holistic approach to their pet’s wellness! Email now to health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk to book a visit.
CAN I STROKE THE DOG?
If you love dogs, it can be hard to stop yourself giving every dog you see a friendly fur ruffle. You love dogs, dogs love you, what’s the problem? The problem is that some dogs are not comfortable with people they don’t know coming close to them or their people and certainly would rather not be touched by a stranger.
Even if you are confident around dogs or a dog owner yourself, always assess whether it will be safe or sensible to approach a dog you don’t know. If the dog and handler are relaxed and don’t seem in a rush to be somewhere then this might be the time for a calm interaction. If the handler seems to be trying to shield their dog or is preoccupied with something else, you might need to walk on by without a stroke.
Ask the owner
Most parents are very good at training their children to ask before stroking a dog, but adults often forget this golden rule themselves. Only approach a dog that is relaxed and with their handler. Never approach a dog that is in a vehicle, tied up outside a shop, or in a crate at a dog show.
Be prepared to be told that you can’t touch a dog, and do not be upset or angry. The dog’s handler may explain why you can’t interact with their dog and common reasons include:
- the dog could be in training or working
- the dog might be ill, in discomfort, or be recovering from surgery
- the dog may be overexcited or on the verge of overexcitement
- the dog may be nervous, anxious, stressed, or have a behavioural problem
- the dog might have just been prepared for the showring with not a hair out of place
Some dogs may wear collars and lead which alert passers by from a distance about their needs.
- Red may mean ‘needs space, do not approach’
- Orange may mean ‘keep dogs away’
- Green may mean ‘friendly’
- White may be used for deaf or bind dogs
- Yellow can mean ‘I am up for adoption’ or ‘nervous, give me space’
- Blue is often used for dogs in training or working
- Purple may mean ‘do not feed’
Dogs may also wear vests or have writing on their lead which says they are nervous, in training, working, or friendly but never assume that you can approach and touch a dog without asking the handler first!
Approaching dogs
Many of us were taught to approach a dog with our hand outstretched for them to sniff. Dogs have an excellent sense of smell and do not need to be close to our hand to check us out. Thrusting your hand towards a dog can be seen as threatening, or they may lunge forward expecting a treat.
Instead of putting your hand towards the dog approach calmy from the side, don’t stare at the dog, and say a friendly ‘hello.’ If the handler has told you their dog’s name use this as dogs seem to accept people who know their name. A dog who is keen to meet you will move towards you and sniff.
Observe dog for Signs of Stress
As the dog approaches and sniffs you watch for any body language that might indicate stress or anxiety. These may include:
- The dog stretching forward but not moving closer
- The tail between the legs or wagging only at the tip
- ‘Whale eye’ with lots of white showing
- Lip licking
- Stress wrinkles around the mouth and on the forehead
- Crouching, rolling over, whining
If you are concerned that the dog is showing stress, take a step backwards and see what the dog does. They may be grateful for the extra space and withdraw, or they may feel more comfortable and be happier to interact.
Touching dogs
If the dog has sniffed you and seems keen to stay close to you, they may be happy for you to stroke them. Never lean over and reach for their head as this is an intimidating posture. Dogs are often more comfortable with a chest or chin scratch, or long slow stroking along their back.
Some dogs may be more comfortable if you crouch down closer to their height, but make sure you will be able to stand up quickly if you need to and won’t be knocked down by and over affectionate dog! Most dogs prefer to be stroked in the direction their hair grows, and avoid sensitive areas like ears, the tummy, and the tail.
After a few seconds of stroking a dog take your hand away and let the dogs decide whether they want to continue the interaction. If the dog moves away, then your petting time is over. If the dog moves back to you or nudges your hand, then they want some more stroking and scratching!
Remember to listen to the dog’s owner too. If they ask you to stop stroking the dog, there will be a reason. They may have noticed their dog is becoming too excited, or they may simply need to get on with their day.
Some dogs like the attention of strangers too much and they may not be respectful of your personal space. If the dog starts jumping up, barging into you, or getting mouthy calmy stand up and back away allowing the handler to get their dog back under control. Never try to correct the behaviour yourself.
Never cuddle, hug, or restrain a dog that you are meeting. Always make sure they can move away from you if they want to. Restrained or cornered dogs are more likely to wriggle, growl, or snap.
Approaching Small Dogs
Small dogs may feel more confident if you can sit on a chair or crouch down. They may be used to jumping up at people or onto their laps so be prepared! Make sure you aren’t in a vulnerable position where the dog can knock you over or you can’t stand up quickly.
Approaching big dogs
Larger dogs may become too excited if you crouch down and may even see this as an invitation to rough play. Instead approach at an angle to avoid a head on greeting with too much eye contact. Invite the dog to come towards you rather than reaching for them.
Teaching Children to interact with dogs
The ideal default position for children should be to watch dogs from a distance and never attempt to touch them unless invited by the owner. Older children can be taught to ask before touching a dog, but must understand they may be told ‘no’.
Children should follow the same guidelines as adults when meeting dogs, but they may need more coaching on what to do if the dog licks or tickles them, and they may need more help to stay calm. Children need to understand that sudden movements and loud noises can excite or frighten dogs. Children should never be forced to interact with a dog if they don’t want to.
Children (and adults) may be approached by of lead dogs in parks and at the beach and are at risk of being chased, knocked over, or even bitten. The following advice is essential for all children to learn.
- If a dog is running about, be a tree! Stand still, fold in your branches (arms), and look at the sky. This makes you boring to a dog.
- If a dog knocks you over, be a rock! Tuck your arms and legs in and stay very still. This also makes you boring for the dog.
- If a dog steals your toy do not chase the dog or try to take the toy. Ask a grown up for help.
- If a dog is lying or sitting in your place do not try to push or pull them off. Ask a grown up for help.
- If you have food and a dog won’t leave you alone, drop the food. This is better than getting bitten.
Dogs can be more nervous around children than adults because children are less predictable in their movements and actions. If a child asks to stroke your dog remember that you are allowed to say ‘no’ , and if you allow the child to pet your dog watch closely for sings your dog is uncomfortable.
GERROFF, THAT’S MINE! THE RESOURCE GUARDING DOG
WHAT IS RESOURCE GUARDING?
Resource guarding is term used for situations where a dog shows protective or aggressive behaviour over something. Dogs who growl when people approach their food bowl, or when a dog or person tries to take a toy from them are common examples. Less obviously a dog can show resource guarding to people, their bed, the sofa or any other things that they perceive as important to them.
WHY DO DOGS SHOW RESOURCE GUARDING?
Guarding important resources such as food is a natural behaviour for dogs. Some breeds have stronger tendencies to guard food and objects. Dogs developed for guarding are more likely to guard their people and homes, gundog breeds can be possessive over food and toys.
How puppies are raised by their breeder can influence how likely a dog is to guard food. Where puppies are fed from one bowl, especially if there is insufficient food, they need to fight for their share and are more likely to show food guarding as adults. Feeding from multiple bowls may reduce the risk of food guarding.
Adult dogs that have had to share bowls, or who have suffered periods of not being fed enough may also develop food guarding issues. Any dog may guard high value treats or food such as raw bones, or found ‘foods’ like roadkill and discarded human food.
Dogs can develop guarding whenever resources are limited. If there are multiple dogs and only a few toys the toys become valuable, the same can be true of the best bed or spot on the sofa! Where one person is the main carer they are also an important resource and a dog might worry that another dog or person is going to reduce their access to their carer.
WHAT DOES RESOURCE GUARDING IN DOGS LOOK LIKE?
Dogs might show very obvious signs of guarding food, an object, a place, or a person such as growling and barking when another animal or person approaches. However, growling and barking are the final warnings before a dog snaps and bites. More subtle signs of guarding can include yawning and lip licking, standing over an object, freezing, and stashing objects. Eating very quickly or swallowing toys or found objects can also be signs of resource guarding.
HOW CAN I PREVENT RESOURCE GUARDING IN DOGS?
Breeders can reduce the risk of resource guarding in their puppies by feeding from multiple bowls, and providing enough toys and safe sleeping spaces that puppies don’t need to fight over them. Puppies will play fight over toys and enjoy tug-of-war games, but there should always be options for them to have their own things.
When bringing a puppy into your home it is important to teach them that you aren’t a threat to the resources they need for survival. You should provide your puppy with a safe, comfy bed and never grab them from their bed. If you need to get your puppy out of their safe place lure them out for a food treat or a toy.
Spending time with your puppy or new dog as they eat is a good way to avoid food guarding. Hand feeding some of the meal, or adding extra to the bowl as your dog eats will mean that they see people near the bowl as a good thing! Never take food from a puppy or dog that is eating, if you need to move them away lure them with a high value treat or their favourite toy. Holding a chew treat to make it easier for your pet to eat is a great way to build a bond and avoid food guarding.
Teach your dog to swap toys and found objects with you. Gundog breeds especially need an outlet for their retrieving behaviours and will pick up less objects at home if you play hunting and fetching games on their walks. If your dog has something dangerous or expensive in their mouth call them excitedly and offer a delicious food treat or a favourite toy as a swap.
If your dog picks up things you would rather not touch, like roadkill or cat poop, you can teach a ‘drop’ cue. Start at home with a toy and show your dog another toy or a food treat, as they drop the one in their mouth add the cue ‘drop’ and give them the toy or treat your have. A solid ‘leave’ cue is also useful in preventing or treating resource guarding.
HOW TO MANAGE A DOG THAT SHOWS RESOURCE GUARDING
It is important never to punish a dog that shows resource guarding. Most dogs with resource guarding are already fearful that they will lose the thing they want so chasing, shouting, or grabbing the object will make them feel even more concerned. Never ignore the body language and growls of a dog that is resource guarding as the next step on the ladder of aggressive behaviour is a bite.
Confrontations with dogs that guard food or objects must be avoided. During training dogs should be allowed to enjoy their food, chews, or toys in peace except during training sessions. It is usually best for one person to work on guarding with other members of the household joining training later on. A crate, puppy pen, or stair gate may be needed to prevent dogs accessing things they shouldn’t have such as shoes and children’s toys and to reduce the risk of people, especially children, disturbing the dog.
Dogs with resource guarding issues should have a thorough vet check before training begins. Conditions which cause pain, excess hunger or thirst, or hormonal disturbances can contribute to protective behaviours. It is often preferable to have a qualified behaviourist to assess dogs with guarding behaviours, develop a treatment plan, and demonstrate exercises.
For food guarding: offer the dog low value food in their bowl. Approach from the side and without making eye contact but stop before the dog stops eating or starts eating faster. Throw higher value food or treats into the bowl. Over time your dog will associate people approaching their bowl with getting better food.
For toy guarding: teach your dog to swap toys for other toys, a tuggy game, or food. Have two of their favourite toy!
For guarding beds and sofas: teach your dog ‘on’ and ‘off’ cues. When necessary use a high value treat or toy to lure them off their resting place. Offer alternative resting places.
MY DOG WON’T LET OTHER PEOPLE CLOSE TO ME, WHAT CAN I DO?
Guarding their person can be a more difficult problem behaviour to deal with. Training your dog to move away from you to a mat or bed for a food reward is one way to get space around you. Remote treat dispensers can help you give a food reward while at a distance.
If your dog doesn’t like other members of your household coming close, having those people take on some of the caring duties can help make you a slightly less important resource.
RESOURCE GUARDING IN MULTI-DOG HOMES
Reduce the risk of guarding in multi-dog homes by providing multiples of every important resource. Dogs should have access to water, sleeping places, and toys without having to compete. If one or more dogs shows aggressive behaviour around food, chew treats, or specific toys it may be necessary to use crates, pens, or baby gates to separate the dogs.
Ensuring all dogs get sufficient quality time with their person and have their mental and physical needs met can avoid ‘jealousy’ between them.
CAN DIET OR MEDICATION HELP WITH RESOURCE GUARDING?
Dogs that struggle to learn new skills or that show other anxious behaviours may benefit from dietary manipulation to support healthy brain chemistry. Some dogs may benefit from calming supplements, or even vet prescribed medications alongside a behaviour training plan. Four Seasons Vet Vicky Payne can advise on diet, supplements, and medications.
We LOVE working with resource guarding cases! For an at home behaviour assessment and treatment plan please email health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk