WHY DOES MY PET HAVE TO BE REFERRED?
Why does your pet need to be registered with a primary care vet, and why does that vet need to refer them before a consultation can take place?
Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care offers complementary therapies for your pet in your home. We do not have a clinic where we can offer routine treatments, diagnostic testing, or emergency care.
To meet RCVS requirements, your pet must have access to emergency care via your primary care practice.
I need to work with primary care vets, as patients often need radiography, blood tests, or conventional medications as part of their Holistic care, and I value the work the primary care vet has done with your pet.
Referral is simple! Request a referral form, fill out the owner section, then pass to your vet to complete. Your vet should email the form to me with any relevant clinical history. In return, I email your vet a copy of each consultation we have so that they are kept up to date with progress.
As I am usually on the road or treating pets, I prefer contact by text (07958142959) or email (health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk)
I am unable to discuss a case by phone until I have a referral form.
ACUPUNCTURE FOR PETS
DOES ACUPUNCTURE WORK FOR PETS?
Acupuncture is the most common reason for Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care to see a pet. We see improvement in most of our acupuncture cases. Acupuncture is supported by review articles and case studies in veterinary literature, as well as being approved by NICE for use in some conditions on the NHS (for humans!).
HOW DOES ACUPUNCTURE WORK?
Acupuncture has several effects on the body. Insertion of the thin surgical steel needles causes an increase in local blood flow which helps to stimulate tissue healing. Acupuncture can stimulate the release of endorphins which make the pet feel good and relieve pain. Acupuncture can also alter pain perception at the spinal cord and brain level.
Traditional Acupuncture talks about meridians and the flow of chi, which can sound unscientific. However, the traditional meridians follow the path of nerves and blood vessels through the body, and chi means energy. If we then think of acupucture improving blood flow to provide oxygen to tissues and stimulating nerves which work through electrical pulses, then acupuncture doesn’t sound so magical!
WHAT CONDITIONS IN PETS CAN ACUPUNCTURE TREAT?
At Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care we mainly treat acute and chronic musculoskeletal pain cases using acupuncture. We have also had success with lick granulomas, and bowel and bladder conditions. Although acupuncture has been reported to help a wide range of conditions we find herbs and diet more effective for many diseases.
WILL MY PET ALLOW ACUPUNCTURE?
If you have a pet who will allow strangers to touch them and who can stay quiet for around 15 minutes after needle placement then we can try acupuncture. There are needle placements that are useful for anxious or fidgety animals. Although dogs are our most frequent patients, we have used acupuncture successfully in cats and rabbits.
CAN ACUPUNCTURE HELP MY PET?
If your pet has a muscle injury or osteoarthritis acupuncture is very likely to help. Results are less consistent for neurological, skin, endocrine, and metablic conditions. If we see no response after three sessions we would recommend looking at other therapies.
ARE THERE ANY RISKS TO MY PET FROM ACUPUNCTURE?
The risks from acupuncture treatment are low. Pain during needle insertion and bleeding from the needling site are uncommon unwanted effects. Pets can feel sleepy after treatment and some human patients report nausea or fainting, but I have never seen an animal patient be sick or faint.
WHAT HAPPENS DURING AN ACUPUNCTURE SESSION?
At the first session I will meet your pet, go over the history, and make a hands on assessment. If I think acupuncture will be useful the first treatment can be given in the same session. Initial appointments are around 1 hour, with subsequent appointments lasting around 30minutes, each with up to 15minutes treatment time.
HOW DO I BOOK ACUPUNCTURE FOR MY PET?
Email health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk for a referral form and current price list. Your pet must be under the care of a primary care veterinary practice who have out of hours arrangements. Once the referral form is returned we will book a mutually convenient time for a home visit and assessment.
GETTING A NEW PUPPY
Deciding to add a new puppy to your family is big decision that can’t be taken lightly. A puppy is a 15-year commitment, and you are responsible for every aspect of their life. Puppies are great fun, but they are also hard work. By planning ahead and being prepared you can choose the perfect new best friend.
Am I ready for a puppy?
There are many benefits to adding a puppy to your family. Studies show that pet ownership can reduce stress and improve physical and mental health. However, it isn’t fair to get a puppy to try and fix problems in your life.
A puppy won’t be a running or hiking partner for 12-18months and they will test your patience at many stages in their development. Puppies can be great companions for children, and some can help children and young adults with additional needs, but not all puppies are suitable for these roles and specialist advice should be sought.
With correct preparation, and adequate physical and mental stimulation adult dogs can be eft for several hours a day while their families are at work and school. Puppies need someone at home with them all the time for their first few weeks as they settle in an learn that they can be safe ‘home alone’. Before bringing a puppy home it is important that you have arrangements in place for their support in the first weeks and beyond.
Puppies are expensive, a 2023 study suggested that a dog costs over £1500 a year to care for. Before looking for a puppy ensure that you have the budget for their purchase price or adoption fee as well as investigating the costs of daily care such as feeding, bedding, routine veterinary care, and insurance. You also need to be able to fund emergency care and have a plan about who will care for your dog if you can’t, both short and long term.
What sort of puppy would suit my family?
There are over 200 pedigree dog breeds recognised by the Kennel Club in the UK, and many more across the world. There are also lots of popular crossbreeds such as ‘Labradoodles’ and Lurchers, as well as mixed breeds. There is a breed, cross, or type of dog out there to suit almost every family!
When thinking about what sort of puppy will suit your family think about how active you are, how big your home is, how much time you will have for grooming, and whether you might want to take part on any dog sports. Surprisingly some large breeds can be very chilled out and take up less space in the home than very active smaller breeds! The Kennel Club website has descriptions of all the recognised breeds and suggestions on how much exercise and grooming they need which can be helpful in drawing up a shortlist.
Breed enthusiasts are always happy to talk to prospective puppy families about whether a breed will suit them. Discover Dogs at Crufts in March is an excellent place to meet the breeds in real life and maybe meet breeds you’d never considered! If you are considering a crossbreed, look at the profiles of the parent breeds as your puppy could show a mix of those traits.
Research what breeds were developed for. Expect spaniels to hunt, collies to herd, terriers to dig, and many small dogs to bark. Once you have chosen a breed, or at least made a shortlist, and met those breeds in person, you can start looking for a puppy!
Where should I look for a new puppy?
The best way to find a new best friend is to make contact with a breeder who has a litter planned. This allows you to meet the mother and maybe the father and discuss whether the puppies they have planned will fit in well to your home. Breeders may list planned litters on their website or on breed club websites and will want to have a good waiting list of prospective buyers before mating their dogs.
The Kennel Club website lists registered puppies for sale, as do some specialist dog websites. Be wary of puppies advertised in the local paper or on free-ad sites. The best breeders rehome their puppies by word of mouth and may never advertise at all.
Rescue and rehoming centres occasionally have puppies available which may be pure or mixed breed. Unlike puppies from a breeder, you won’t usually be able to find out anything about the father. Rescue pups can be a real surprise and may turn out very different from their mother.
When searching for a puppy expect to be asked lots of questions by the breeder or rescue to determine if you are able to offer a suitable home. You should also have your own list of questions. Important things to ask about include:
- Are the puppies raised in the home?
- Why did you breed this litter?
- Can I see the health tests for mum and dad?
- Will I be able to watch the development of the litter on a video stream or similar?
- Will my puppy be vaccinated/ flea treated/ wormed?
- What do you do to get the puppies ready for the outside world?
Remember that being on a waiting list is no guarantee of getting a puppy. If you are not successful the breeder may be able to recommend another litter, or suggest you wait until they breed again. The right puppy is worth waiting for.
How do I choose my new puppy?
You should be able to visit the litter from about 4 weeks of age when the mum is more relaxed about visitors (and the puppies are more interesting!). Some breeders will help you choose the puppy that best suits your circumstances, but generally avoid any very shy or nervous puppies unless you have a lot of puppy raising experience. Your choice may be limited if you are specific about the gender or colour of puppy you want.
Usually after spending a bit of time being climbed all over by a busy litter of puppies there will be one or two that take your eye. The breeder should be able to tell you about their personality, though bear in mind that this can change as they grow up.
What do I need before I bring my puppy home?
Good breeders and rehoming centres will provide an information pack for you to read through outlining how they have raised the litter, and what you will need to do when you get your puppy home. Key information you need includes:
- When the puppy has been vaccinated/ flea treated/ wormed and when this is due again.
- Information on the breed including health issues, grooming needs, training and exercise requirements.
- Information on diet (what they have been feeding, how much and when).
You should prepare for your new puppy by setting up a crate or bed in a pen to provide a safe and secure ‘bedroom’ for them. Buy in some of the food they have been eating and some tasty puppy treats. Consider plugging in a calming pheromone diffuser a few days before your puppy comes home to help them settle in.Calming collars and sprays can also be very useful to help your puppy during the first few stressful days
Choose some suitable toys for your puppy. Your puppy will appreciate a soft toy to snuggle up with and toys that you can fill with foodlike this chewy snake. Get a suitable sized collar for your puppy with a tag engraved with your name and address on.
Your puppy needs to be secure on their journey home so look for a travel box that you can snuggle them into. It is useful to have someone to watch the puppy on the journey home and someone else to drive to avoid dangerous distractions. Pheremone spray can be used in the travel box and try to take a toy or bit of bedding from the breeder which smells familiar.
When you collect your puppy expect to sign a contract which is designed to protect your rights, the breeder, and most importantly the puppy! You should receive your puppy’s microchip information (it is a legal requirement that puppies are chipped before sale), and registration documents, and information on their vaccinations (if given), flea, and worm treatment.
First days and nights with my new puppy!
Going to a new home is very stressful for a puppy, no matter how well the breeder and their new family have prepared. When you get your puppy home let them into a secure outdoor space to go to the toilet and then settle them into their puppy den. Offer some food and water, but don’t be surprised if they need coaxing to eat at first.
In the first few days just let your puppy settle in, bond with you, and learn where they should go to the toilet. Take them out for regular toileting breaks and play sessions but appreciate that your new arrival will need 16-18 hours sleep!
Your puppy may be unsettled at night at first as they will always have slept with their siblings. Some puppies will be happy in their pen on their own as long as you are nearby when they fall asleep. Others will wake frequently and need regular reassurance so you may want them to sleep near your bed, or you might camp out on the sofa! Your puppy will need to go to the toilet at some point in the night and you can choose to wake them up at a set time and take them out, or to wait for them to wake you up. Each day they should be able to hold things a little longer but expect accidents and setbacks.
If you want to change your puppy onto a new food, do this after 1-2 weeks when your puppy is settled in. Mix the new food in with the old one over a few days to avoid your puppy getting a tummy upset.
Book you puppy in for a vet visit in the first week for a health check, and to discuss vaccinations, flea, and worm treatments.
Our Vet Vicky LOVES to talk to potential puppy owners about making the best choice, as well as supporting them through those early days. Contact us at health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk for any puppy help!
PROGESTERONE FOR PUPPY PLANNING
COMING INTO ‘SEASON’
The reproductive biology of female dogs is quite different to female humans. Dogs are only sexually receptive once or twice a year. The most common time between ‘seasons’ is 7 months, but some individuals have shorter or longer intervals. Dogs can have their first season from 6-18 months of age.
Dogs are not ready to mate when their season starts, which allows owners to plan mating, or plan on how to prevent mating! When your dog is in season you must avoid exercising her where there may be male dogs off lead and she should never be left unsupervised. If your dog is mated accidentally, call your vet for advice.
HOW DO I KNOW MY DOG IS IN SEASON?
Your dog may show changes in behaviour before her season. She may become clingy or aloof, more friendly with other dogs or less tolerant of them. Other dogs might start to show more interest in her.
The first day of her season is when you first see a pink or red discharge at the vulva. The vulva then swells significantly. Some bitches show abdominal discomfort in the first week of their season.
After 7-10 days the discharge becomes more straw coloured and the vulva less swollen. This is when your dog is approaching her fertile period. Mating at this point usually results in pregnancy because healthy dog sperm can survive up to 7 days in the female.
After 3-4 weeks your dogs will no longer be of interest to males and her vulva will reduce in size. If it is her first season her vulva will not return to its prepubertal size.
KNOWING WHEN TO MATE
Dates and Behaviour
Most dogs will conceive if mated between day 10 and 14 from the first day of their season. If she allows the dog to mate she is probably in her fertile window. Experienced stud dogs will also show less interest in a female dog if she is not around ovulation.
However, using these methods gives little indication of when puppies will be born. Pregnancy, if counted from mating, can appear to be as short as 58 days or as long as 69 days.
Ovulation Prediction
A test that can predict when a dog ovulates gives the breeder more information on when to mate the dog, but also when to expect puppies. The eggs are not ready to be fertilised until 2 days after ovulation and stay ready for up to 48hours. Dogs are pregnant for 63 days from ovulation (plus or minus one day).
Ovulation tests offered to breeders include blood progesterone testing, vaginal cytology, ovulation pads, and ferning.
Vaginal cytology can be accurate if it is performed by an experience person and repeated every 2 days from the start of the season until after mating.
Progesterone testing requires a blood sample to be taken by a vet (fertility clinics can run tests but only vets can take blood by law). The most accurate results are gained by testeing every 2 days from day 8 or 9 of the season until ovulation occurs. Single tests can be difficult to interpret in some cases.
Saliva ferning gives an indication of oestrogen levels but is not accurate enough on its own.
Other tests such as ovulation pads, vaginal pH, and electric conductivity are not scientifically validated and should be avoided.
Puppy Prediction
Puppies should arrive 62-64 days after ovulation, regardless of mating date. Large litters tend to arrive early, and small litters slightly later. If puppies have not arrive by day 65 from ovulation seek veterinary advice.
If the date of ovulation is unknown and a breeder is worried the puppies are late, or where a caesarian may be needed because there is only one big puppy, progesterone tests can be used to predict when it is safe to remove the puppies.
Progesterone drops sharply just before birth so progesterone is low the puppies need to be delivered. If it is still high the puppies can stay inside a bit longer. In very rare cases the drop doesn’t happen which is why knowing the true due date is so important.
PUPPY PLANNING
Chosing to breed a litter of puppies should not be done lightly. Breeding and raising puppies correctly is expensive, time consuming, and it can be both a joyful time and a time of heartbreak. Speak to your vet and to experienced mentors before deciding to breed your dog.
A BITE FROM THE BLUE – DOES YOUR DOG HAVE RAGE SYNDROME?
DOES MY DOG HAVE ‘RAGE SYNDROME’?
Probably not.
‘Rage syndrome’ is a label applied to dogs who are described as biting their humans out of the blue and with no warning. The attacks are often described as frenzied and the dog is often said to have been acting normally seconds before the attack. ‘Rage syndrome’ is most often described in solid coloured Cocker Spaniels, especially red ones, but has also been described in other spaniels and non-spaniel breeds.
There is little good scientific research on ‘Rage syndrome’ and what there is points to this most often being a problem behaviour related to rescource guarding rather than a mysterious tendancy to attack for no reason. In their 1996 paper Podberscek and Serpell (1) did find increased aggression in solid colour cockers, but attributed most of it to ‘social dominance’ and protection of territory and possessions. They suggested there was a genetic component to the behaviour, which is not surprising as we accept that many personality traits have a genetic basis. It may have been that by paying more attention to the colours of dogs than to temperament breeders were creating pups with traits unsuitable for familiy life.
In their book ‘EMRA Intelligence’ Falconer-Taylor, Neville, and Strong (2) describe a typical case presented to the behaviourist as ‘Cocker Rage’. What they found was not a dog with an incurable genetic predisposition to unpredictable aggression, but a rather bored and frustrated dog . He was trying to communicate to his people when he was unhappy through his body language, and if they ignored that by growling, but sometimes they just didn’t hear his communication and he was pushed to snap at them. By teaching his owners how to meet his needs and listen to him, Bracken the Cocker becaome a content and safe family pet.
When someone tells me that a dog has ‘rage syndrome’ there are three key questions I ask. Could the dog be in pain? Where was the dog when the aggression occured? Was there anything of value to the dog around when the aggression occured?
Pain affects sleep, mobility, can be chronic but with acute flare-ups, it can affect mood and we appreciate in humans that it will make us short-tempered, so why not dogs? If the aggression is related to grooming and handling a through vet check to look for pain is advisable. Even aggression related to being stroked can be because the person accidentally touched a sore area.
Often the aggression is related to objects such as a bed or sofa, toys, and found items or to food and treats. It can even be connected to a particular person. This is termed ‘resource guarding’ and is understandable when you thing that without shelter, food, and protection a dog could die! Puppies need to be taught early on that humans (and other pets) are not going to steal their food. They need to be taught good cues to get off beds and furniture for a reward, and they need to be taught to give up toys or found objects on cue for a reward. Sleeping dogs should be gently roused so they aren’t startled into biting and dogs should be controlled around flash points like the front door as this area causes a complicated mix of strong emptions in so many dogs!
THE BITE FROM THE BLUE
“Yes,” you say, “but the dog I’m talking about just bit out of the blue with no warning!”
This is rarely true, at least not to begin with. Dogs are very good at communicating how they feel, but humans are not very good at listening to dogs. I say ‘listening’ but I should say ‘watching’ as most dog communication is non verbal. Early signs that a dog is not comfortable can be trying to withdrawn from contact, stiffness, a slow stiff tail wag, showing the whites of the eyes, and pining the ears back. If we ignore those the dog might try showing their teeth, standing over an object, or growling. At this point people tend to notice and might punish the dog by shouting or even hitting the dog. This works to stop the dog snarling or growling, but it doesn’t stop the dog feeling very unhappy about the situation. The dog learns not to growl, because they get punished so goes straight from subtle body language into an air snap. If you watch dogs together they are veyr good at dodging warning air snaps… people less so, and we get bitten. At this point most dogs who have been taught that biting people is not acceptable retreat and ‘look guilty’, they don’t show the frenzied attack of the ‘rage’ dog. But, if their bite is met with screaming, shouting, or hitting the dog may be so afraid that they attack as a form of self-defence. Sadly this can result in severe injuries to anyone who is in the way and could even be fatal to a child.
SO ‘RAGE SYNDROME’ ISN’T A REAL THING?
I have encountered a very small number of dogs who I believe have something pathological behind their aggression which we might call ‘rage’. In The Behavioural Biology of Dogs, Hedhammar and Hultin-Jäderlund (3) note that abnormal EEGs have been found in some dogs displaying ‘rage’ which point towards the idea that it is a form of epilepsy. I know people who live with hallucinatory forms of epilepsy which can be frightening until they get a diagnosis. I can imagine that seeing a frightening or confusing image could cause the symptoms of my ‘rage’ cases, namely dilated pupils (described by owners as trhe eyes going red as they see the retina) suggesting their ‘flight or flight’ system is triggered, and growling at thin air. People get bitten when they try to comfort the dog, or move into the field of vision and the bites are deep and multiple as when dogs are in self-defence mode.
I have not had great success with these pathological cases. Other vets and behaviourists have found anti-epileptic drugs to help some dogs, but many are euthanased as their atacks cannot be predicted or managed.
WHAT DO I DO IF MY DOGS IS GROWLING AND BITING?
- Sit down and identify when your dog growls and snaps. Often ‘random’ aggression is not so random when you really think about it. This can give you and your behaviourist clues as to why your dog isn’t happy.
- Book a vet check. Your behaviourist will want this before engaging in anything other than an emergency management plan. Make sure your vet knows why you are asking and does a thorough examination including the mouth, eyes, ears, abdomen, and musculoskeletal system. If your dog is aggressive when handled this may require pre-visit medication and a muzzle. Your vet may want to do blood tests, especially in older animals where medical conditions can make them less tolerant.
- Engage with a behaviourist who understands the emotional basis of problem behaviours such as those with COAPE qualifications and/or CAPBT members.
References
I don’t usually do references, but here are two articles you can read, and a book you can buy or find in a library that I used in writing this piece.
- https://d1wqtxts1xzle7.cloudfront.net/41637557/Environmental_influences_on_the_expressi20160127-20205-l6aq70-libre.pdf?1453905122=&response-content-disposition=inline%3B+filename%3DEnvironmental_influences_on_the_expressi.pdf&Expires=1673962846&Signature=S3zRQ5gfuyA2ZVAkEY6z4ffUqm1CUJ~BF-sD7wcVYb~mN1-M2MV2Bi2R1mqh1UOAre3R4P3fjfoh5dp1RHQoU0eSCV~~ZoHdNpuBbIMfnlwswztX-stNovVjmwA~bUgQ813RkckoqetMjI0GoMPR673tdyD7AQmfeFnjS~DoFWmOyAdM4GUFwea8Mqq-Cq8-Cf8mhmGgn6CNxClUOowicr5zF~ygHv4hVs~SEmT8mV7PLTftb5wYp8A3RKxDEjCrh08nhmfaRffnFLBHYqrYq0VgJfATMmuj5GWRMHp9ekLQ6EupkwrkIPMWfxWxvQo-eTBTdW81-y9webjbCkbRqw__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAJLOHF5GGSLRBV4ZA
- https://www.abebooks.co.uk/book-search/author/robert-falconer-taylor-peter-neville-val-strong/
- http://sherekashmir.informaticspublishing.com/671/1/9781845931872.pdf#page=253
THE COST OF PET CARE
PET CARE COSTS ON THE RISE!
Lots of people bought pets during lockdown, and they have brought untold benefits in terms of companionship and exercise during these very difficult times. Unfortunately the aftermath of Covid-19 along with Brexit and the invasion of Ukraine, is that there is a huge cost of living crisis looming… and it affects pet care as much as everything else.
SAVING MONEY ON PET CARE
- BUY IN BULK. If you can afford to buy larger amounts of pet food this will usually be less expensive. Choosing a cheaper brand may not be cost effective as you often need to feed more per meal so look at the per meal cost as well as the price per bag. Only buy as much as you will use before the food goes out of date.
- KEEP ON TOP OF VACCINATIONS AND PARASITE CONTROL. Cutting corners on preventative healthcare often costs more in the long run. Some owners chose cheaper flea treatments to save money when furloughed then faced an uphill struggle to control a flea infestation. Unless your pet is at high risk of adverse reactions to vaccines it will be less expensive to follow the vets programme than using titre tests to check protection.
- ASK ABOUT A PRESCRIPTION. Written prescriptions allow your to buy medications on-line from pharmacies. You will be charged for the prescription but will still be able to make savings on some parasite prevention products and medications. Vets will have individual policies on how many times you can use a prescription and how often your pet will need a meds check.
- INSURE YOUR PET. Insurance is a monthly bill you may think about dropping, but can you afford to care for your pet in an emergency without it? Ask if there are any areas of cover that can be removed to reduce the premium, or offer to pay a higher excess. Make sure you have the excess available, and remember that some specialist centres require payment at the time. A credit card is useful for this as you can pay it off as soon as the insurance pays out. Alternatives to insurance including making a pet savings account, but this may not have enough in if your young pet becomes ill.
- JOIN A PET HEALTH CLUB. Many veterinary practices have pet health clubs where a monthly fee pays for reduced cost parasite control and vaccines and unlocks other freebies and discounts.
- DON’T DIY. If you are concerned about your pet’s health, even if you are also on a tight budget, please seek veterinary advice. Although there is good information on the internet vets also see too many pets who have been damaged through the use of human medicines or delayed treatment.
Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care is a referral only service and we can only offer advice to registered and referred clients. We are a very small business and are not able to offer any credit on our services.
FULLY BOOKED UNTIL FEBRUARY 2022
FOUR SEASONS HOLISTIC VETERINARY CARE WILL TAKE NEW CLIENTS FROM 15TH FEBRUARY 2022
We will not be taking on any new clients or patients until 15th February 2022. We are busy in January with existing clients, covering at Companion Care Vets in Eastbourne, and making time for our own dogs. We will be closed completely between January 29th and February 13th for a well earned break.
No apologies… we can’t pour from an empty cup.
IMPORTANT REMINDERS
We only treat animals on referral from your primary care vet. Although most owners contact us directly, your vet will be asked to complete the referral form, and to email all relevant clinical history. Your pet must be a registered and active client of a veterinary practice which offers 24hour emergency care (on or off site) in order to use the services of Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care.
We offer home visits in the Hastings, Bexhill, Battle, and Eastbourne areas. We do not have a practice building!
Our vet Vicky has a regular clinic at Companion Care Vets in Eastbourne.
Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and all that jazz…
HOLIDAY!
CLOSED UNTIL 29TH SEPTEMBER
Our vet is taking a well earned break!
Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care is CLOSED until Tuesday 29th September.
For urgent pet health problems please call your primary care vet.
Email or text with non-urgent enquiries but be aware they will not be dealt with until 29th.
PRICE RISES
We aim to provide an affordable complementary veterinary service, but the prices of stock as well as fuel and insurance rise year on year. We have held prices for sometime, but now we need to make some increases.
FROM 1ST OCTOBER 2020
Home Visit Acupuncture Initial Course £200
Acupuncture Subsequent Visits £50
Holistic Consultation £100
Repeat or Telephone Consultation £70
Herbal Tinctures from £15 for 50ml to £60 for 500ml
Behaviour Assessment and Treatment Plans £300