WORMING PUPPIES AND KITTENS
The Importance of Worming Puppies and Kittens
Pregnant cats and dogs can pass roundworms (Toxacara) to their offspring through the placenta before the puppies or kittens are even born. Further infection can then take place through the milk, grooming, and from the mother’s coat. Pregnancy hormones stimulate roundworms which have been encysted in body tissues to migrate.
Larvae present in the puppy or kitten at birth will develop into adult worms by the time the puppy or kitten is two weeks old. Roundworms can cause abdominal pain, diarrhoea, stunted growth, and a pot-bellied appearance. Puppies and kittens may not pass worms in the faeces, even with a heavy infestation.
A severe roundworm infection can be debilitating, and sometimes fatal, for a young animal. Added to the risk for the pet, infected puppies and kittens can shed eggs into the environment which can infect children. Toxacara can cause serious health conditions in children including blindness and liver damage.
Common types of Worms
Roundworms
There are two species of roundworm affecting cats and dogs: Toxacara canis and Toxascarais leonin. They grow into long spaghetti-like worms which absorb nutrients from the puppy or kitten. Roundworms can hide in body tissues (encyst) which can make them difficult to completely eradicate.
Tapeworms
Tapeworms live in the small intestine and absorb nutrients from food as it is digested. They have a row of sharp teeth which grip onto the gut wall and can grow to over 15cm in length! Tapeworms reproduce by shedding segments which pass out in the faeces. These segments look like rice grains and are sometimes seen in a pets’ fur.
Hookworms
These are short blood sucking worms which can be fatal to puppies and kittens. They are less common in the UK than in Europe.
Whipworms
Again, a less common worm in the UK. These live in the large intestine and are less likely to cause health problems.
Lungworm
Contracted from the infected slime of slugs and snails, lungworm is a problem for dogs in the UK. It can cause persistent coughing but can also cause fatal bleeding disorders.
Signs your Puppy or Kitten has Worms.
Assume that your new puppy or kitten comes with worms! There may be no signs of worm infection if your puppy or kitten has a light infection.
Heavier infections may cause diarrhoea, poor weight gain, a poor coat, lethargy, and a pot-bellied appearance. Advanced cases can cause constipation by blocking the gut. In some cases, puppies and kittens will vomit roundworms or pass them in the faeces.
How to Prevent Worms in Puppies and Kittens
When rehoming a puppy or kitten, you should ask to see records of the worming that the breeder or rescue organisation has carried out. It is usual for at least two courses of worming medication to be given before a puppy or kitten is 8 weeks old.
When you take your puppy or kitten for their first health check and vaccination, your vet will be able to advise on an ongoing worming schedule. Most will advise monthly roundworm treatment and tapeworm treatment every 3 months.
If lungworm is a risk for dogs in your area you will need a prescription lungworm treatment from your vet. Theses should be given once a month.
Puppies and kittens usually come with a few fleas too, which are not only irritating but can also spread tapeworm. Fleas can be infected with tapeworm eggs, which the puppy or kitten then ingests during grooming. Clever, but gross!
Keep your new puppy or kitten flea free with some of the following products:
Clean up after your Pet
Even if your pet is regularly wormed, it remains the responsible thing to do to clean up after them. Puppy owners should always take poop bags with them and dispose of dog waste in a bin. Kitten owners should encourage their pets to use indoor or outdoor litter trays to reduce the risk of contaminating garden soil, especially with the popularity of home vegetable growing!
Interestingly fresh pet faeces have a very low risk of causing infection in humans, with the eggs of some species only becoming infective after as long as a month outside the body. Even so, washing your hands (or using a hand sanitizer gel if out and about) is highly recommended.
Correct disposal of pet waste is also vital to reduce environmental contamination with chemicals that can kill beneficial invertebrates as well as pet parasites. Bag and bin!
Eco Alternatives?
The best alternative to routine worming of puppies and kittens is worm egg counting. A laboratory can test a faecal sample allowing you to target your use of worming products. As puppies and kitten have lower immunity to parasites, testing should be done monthly until they are six months old.
Herbal products are available which can reduce the risk of your new pet getting a parasite burden, but they are not able to clear a heavy infection. Adding diatomaceous earth to your puppy or kitten’s diet is unlikely to help prevent or treat intestinal parasites.
Our vet loves talking to new puppy and kitten owners about a holistic approach to their pet’s wellness! Email now to health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk to book a visit.
CAN I STROKE THE DOG?
If you love dogs, it can be hard to stop yourself giving every dog you see a friendly fur ruffle. You love dogs, dogs love you, what’s the problem? The problem is that some dogs are not comfortable with people they don’t know coming close to them or their people and certainly would rather not be touched by a stranger.
Even if you are confident around dogs or a dog owner yourself, always assess whether it will be safe or sensible to approach a dog you don’t know. If the dog and handler are relaxed and don’t seem in a rush to be somewhere then this might be the time for a calm interaction. If the handler seems to be trying to shield their dog or is preoccupied with something else, you might need to walk on by without a stroke.
Ask the owner
Most parents are very good at training their children to ask before stroking a dog, but adults often forget this golden rule themselves. Only approach a dog that is relaxed and with their handler. Never approach a dog that is in a vehicle, tied up outside a shop, or in a crate at a dog show.
Be prepared to be told that you can’t touch a dog, and do not be upset or angry. The dog’s handler may explain why you can’t interact with their dog and common reasons include:
- the dog could be in training or working
- the dog might be ill, in discomfort, or be recovering from surgery
- the dog may be overexcited or on the verge of overexcitement
- the dog may be nervous, anxious, stressed, or have a behavioural problem
- the dog might have just been prepared for the showring with not a hair out of place
Some dogs may wear collars and lead which alert passers by from a distance about their needs.
- Red may mean ‘needs space, do not approach’
- Orange may mean ‘keep dogs away’
- Green may mean ‘friendly’
- White may be used for deaf or bind dogs
- Yellow can mean ‘I am up for adoption’ or ‘nervous, give me space’
- Blue is often used for dogs in training or working
- Purple may mean ‘do not feed’
Dogs may also wear vests or have writing on their lead which says they are nervous, in training, working, or friendly but never assume that you can approach and touch a dog without asking the handler first!
Approaching dogs
Many of us were taught to approach a dog with our hand outstretched for them to sniff. Dogs have an excellent sense of smell and do not need to be close to our hand to check us out. Thrusting your hand towards a dog can be seen as threatening, or they may lunge forward expecting a treat.
Instead of putting your hand towards the dog approach calmy from the side, don’t stare at the dog, and say a friendly ‘hello.’ If the handler has told you their dog’s name use this as dogs seem to accept people who know their name. A dog who is keen to meet you will move towards you and sniff.
Observe dog for Signs of Stress
As the dog approaches and sniffs you watch for any body language that might indicate stress or anxiety. These may include:
- The dog stretching forward but not moving closer
- The tail between the legs or wagging only at the tip
- ‘Whale eye’ with lots of white showing
- Lip licking
- Stress wrinkles around the mouth and on the forehead
- Crouching, rolling over, whining
If you are concerned that the dog is showing stress, take a step backwards and see what the dog does. They may be grateful for the extra space and withdraw, or they may feel more comfortable and be happier to interact.
Touching dogs
If the dog has sniffed you and seems keen to stay close to you, they may be happy for you to stroke them. Never lean over and reach for their head as this is an intimidating posture. Dogs are often more comfortable with a chest or chin scratch, or long slow stroking along their back.
Some dogs may be more comfortable if you crouch down closer to their height, but make sure you will be able to stand up quickly if you need to and won’t be knocked down by and over affectionate dog! Most dogs prefer to be stroked in the direction their hair grows, and avoid sensitive areas like ears, the tummy, and the tail.
After a few seconds of stroking a dog take your hand away and let the dogs decide whether they want to continue the interaction. If the dog moves away, then your petting time is over. If the dog moves back to you or nudges your hand, then they want some more stroking and scratching!
Remember to listen to the dog’s owner too. If they ask you to stop stroking the dog, there will be a reason. They may have noticed their dog is becoming too excited, or they may simply need to get on with their day.
Some dogs like the attention of strangers too much and they may not be respectful of your personal space. If the dog starts jumping up, barging into you, or getting mouthy calmy stand up and back away allowing the handler to get their dog back under control. Never try to correct the behaviour yourself.
Never cuddle, hug, or restrain a dog that you are meeting. Always make sure they can move away from you if they want to. Restrained or cornered dogs are more likely to wriggle, growl, or snap.
Approaching Small Dogs
Small dogs may feel more confident if you can sit on a chair or crouch down. They may be used to jumping up at people or onto their laps so be prepared! Make sure you aren’t in a vulnerable position where the dog can knock you over or you can’t stand up quickly.
Approaching big dogs
Larger dogs may become too excited if you crouch down and may even see this as an invitation to rough play. Instead approach at an angle to avoid a head on greeting with too much eye contact. Invite the dog to come towards you rather than reaching for them.
Teaching Children to interact with dogs
The ideal default position for children should be to watch dogs from a distance and never attempt to touch them unless invited by the owner. Older children can be taught to ask before touching a dog, but must understand they may be told ‘no’.
Children should follow the same guidelines as adults when meeting dogs, but they may need more coaching on what to do if the dog licks or tickles them, and they may need more help to stay calm. Children need to understand that sudden movements and loud noises can excite or frighten dogs. Children should never be forced to interact with a dog if they don’t want to.
Children (and adults) may be approached by of lead dogs in parks and at the beach and are at risk of being chased, knocked over, or even bitten. The following advice is essential for all children to learn.
- If a dog is running about, be a tree! Stand still, fold in your branches (arms), and look at the sky. This makes you boring to a dog.
- If a dog knocks you over, be a rock! Tuck your arms and legs in and stay very still. This also makes you boring for the dog.
- If a dog steals your toy do not chase the dog or try to take the toy. Ask a grown up for help.
- If a dog is lying or sitting in your place do not try to push or pull them off. Ask a grown up for help.
- If you have food and a dog won’t leave you alone, drop the food. This is better than getting bitten.
Dogs can be more nervous around children than adults because children are less predictable in their movements and actions. If a child asks to stroke your dog remember that you are allowed to say ‘no’ , and if you allow the child to pet your dog watch closely for sings your dog is uncomfortable.
GERROFF, THAT’S MINE! THE RESOURCE GUARDING DOG
WHAT IS RESOURCE GUARDING?
Resource guarding is term used for situations where a dog shows protective or aggressive behaviour over something. Dogs who growl when people approach their food bowl, or when a dog or person tries to take a toy from them are common examples. Less obviously a dog can show resource guarding to people, their bed, the sofa or any other things that they perceive as important to them.
WHY DO DOGS SHOW RESOURCE GUARDING?
Guarding important resources such as food is a natural behaviour for dogs. Some breeds have stronger tendencies to guard food and objects. Dogs developed for guarding are more likely to guard their people and homes, gundog breeds can be possessive over food and toys.
How puppies are raised by their breeder can influence how likely a dog is to guard food. Where puppies are fed from one bowl, especially if there is insufficient food, they need to fight for their share and are more likely to show food guarding as adults. Feeding from multiple bowls may reduce the risk of food guarding.
Adult dogs that have had to share bowls, or who have suffered periods of not being fed enough may also develop food guarding issues. Any dog may guard high value treats or food such as raw bones, or found ‘foods’ like roadkill and discarded human food.
Dogs can develop guarding whenever resources are limited. If there are multiple dogs and only a few toys the toys become valuable, the same can be true of the best bed or spot on the sofa! Where one person is the main carer they are also an important resource and a dog might worry that another dog or person is going to reduce their access to their carer.
WHAT DOES RESOURCE GUARDING IN DOGS LOOK LIKE?
Dogs might show very obvious signs of guarding food, an object, a place, or a person such as growling and barking when another animal or person approaches. However, growling and barking are the final warnings before a dog snaps and bites. More subtle signs of guarding can include yawning and lip licking, standing over an object, freezing, and stashing objects. Eating very quickly or swallowing toys or found objects can also be signs of resource guarding.
HOW CAN I PREVENT RESOURCE GUARDING IN DOGS?
Breeders can reduce the risk of resource guarding in their puppies by feeding from multiple bowls, and providing enough toys and safe sleeping spaces that puppies don’t need to fight over them. Puppies will play fight over toys and enjoy tug-of-war games, but there should always be options for them to have their own things.
When bringing a puppy into your home it is important to teach them that you aren’t a threat to the resources they need for survival. You should provide your puppy with a safe, comfy bed and never grab them from their bed. If you need to get your puppy out of their safe place lure them out for a food treat or a toy.
Spending time with your puppy or new dog as they eat is a good way to avoid food guarding. Hand feeding some of the meal, or adding extra to the bowl as your dog eats will mean that they see people near the bowl as a good thing! Never take food from a puppy or dog that is eating, if you need to move them away lure them with a high value treat or their favourite toy. Holding a chew treat to make it easier for your pet to eat is a great way to build a bond and avoid food guarding.
Teach your dog to swap toys and found objects with you. Gundog breeds especially need an outlet for their retrieving behaviours and will pick up less objects at home if you play hunting and fetching games on their walks. If your dog has something dangerous or expensive in their mouth call them excitedly and offer a delicious food treat or a favourite toy as a swap.
If your dog picks up things you would rather not touch, like roadkill or cat poop, you can teach a ‘drop’ cue. Start at home with a toy and show your dog another toy or a food treat, as they drop the one in their mouth add the cue ‘drop’ and give them the toy or treat your have. A solid ‘leave’ cue is also useful in preventing or treating resource guarding.
HOW TO MANAGE A DOG THAT SHOWS RESOURCE GUARDING
It is important never to punish a dog that shows resource guarding. Most dogs with resource guarding are already fearful that they will lose the thing they want so chasing, shouting, or grabbing the object will make them feel even more concerned. Never ignore the body language and growls of a dog that is resource guarding as the next step on the ladder of aggressive behaviour is a bite.
Confrontations with dogs that guard food or objects must be avoided. During training dogs should be allowed to enjoy their food, chews, or toys in peace except during training sessions. It is usually best for one person to work on guarding with other members of the household joining training later on. A crate, puppy pen, or stair gate may be needed to prevent dogs accessing things they shouldn’t have such as shoes and children’s toys and to reduce the risk of people, especially children, disturbing the dog.
Dogs with resource guarding issues should have a thorough vet check before training begins. Conditions which cause pain, excess hunger or thirst, or hormonal disturbances can contribute to protective behaviours. It is often preferable to have a qualified behaviourist to assess dogs with guarding behaviours, develop a treatment plan, and demonstrate exercises.
For food guarding: offer the dog low value food in their bowl. Approach from the side and without making eye contact but stop before the dog stops eating or starts eating faster. Throw higher value food or treats into the bowl. Over time your dog will associate people approaching their bowl with getting better food.
For toy guarding: teach your dog to swap toys for other toys, a tuggy game, or food. Have two of their favourite toy!
For guarding beds and sofas: teach your dog ‘on’ and ‘off’ cues. When necessary use a high value treat or toy to lure them off their resting place. Offer alternative resting places.
MY DOG WON’T LET OTHER PEOPLE CLOSE TO ME, WHAT CAN I DO?
Guarding their person can be a more difficult problem behaviour to deal with. Training your dog to move away from you to a mat or bed for a food reward is one way to get space around you. Remote treat dispensers can help you give a food reward while at a distance.
If your dog doesn’t like other members of your household coming close, having those people take on some of the caring duties can help make you a slightly less important resource.
RESOURCE GUARDING IN MULTI-DOG HOMES
Reduce the risk of guarding in multi-dog homes by providing multiples of every important resource. Dogs should have access to water, sleeping places, and toys without having to compete. If one or more dogs shows aggressive behaviour around food, chew treats, or specific toys it may be necessary to use crates, pens, or baby gates to separate the dogs.
Ensuring all dogs get sufficient quality time with their person and have their mental and physical needs met can avoid ‘jealousy’ between them.
CAN DIET OR MEDICATION HELP WITH RESOURCE GUARDING?
Dogs that struggle to learn new skills or that show other anxious behaviours may benefit from dietary manipulation to support healthy brain chemistry. Some dogs may benefit from calming supplements, or even vet prescribed medications alongside a behaviour training plan. Four Seasons Vet Vicky Payne can advise on diet, supplements, and medications.
We LOVE working with resource guarding cases! For an at home behaviour assessment and treatment plan please email health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk
GETTING A NEW PUPPY
Deciding to add a new puppy to your family is big decision that can’t be taken lightly. A puppy is a 15-year commitment, and you are responsible for every aspect of their life. Puppies are great fun, but they are also hard work. By planning ahead and being prepared you can choose the perfect new best friend.
Am I ready for a puppy?
There are many benefits to adding a puppy to your family. Studies show that pet ownership can reduce stress and improve physical and mental health. However, it isn’t fair to get a puppy to try and fix problems in your life.
A puppy won’t be a running or hiking partner for 12-18months and they will test your patience at many stages in their development. Puppies can be great companions for children, and some can help children and young adults with additional needs, but not all puppies are suitable for these roles and specialist advice should be sought.
With correct preparation, and adequate physical and mental stimulation adult dogs can be eft for several hours a day while their families are at work and school. Puppies need someone at home with them all the time for their first few weeks as they settle in an learn that they can be safe ‘home alone’. Before bringing a puppy home it is important that you have arrangements in place for their support in the first weeks and beyond.
Puppies are expensive, a 2023 study suggested that a dog costs over £1500 a year to care for. Before looking for a puppy ensure that you have the budget for their purchase price or adoption fee as well as investigating the costs of daily care such as feeding, bedding, routine veterinary care, and insurance. You also need to be able to fund emergency care and have a plan about who will care for your dog if you can’t, both short and long term.
What sort of puppy would suit my family?
There are over 200 pedigree dog breeds recognised by the Kennel Club in the UK, and many more across the world. There are also lots of popular crossbreeds such as ‘Labradoodles’ and Lurchers, as well as mixed breeds. There is a breed, cross, or type of dog out there to suit almost every family!
When thinking about what sort of puppy will suit your family think about how active you are, how big your home is, how much time you will have for grooming, and whether you might want to take part on any dog sports. Surprisingly some large breeds can be very chilled out and take up less space in the home than very active smaller breeds! The Kennel Club website has descriptions of all the recognised breeds and suggestions on how much exercise and grooming they need which can be helpful in drawing up a shortlist.
Breed enthusiasts are always happy to talk to prospective puppy families about whether a breed will suit them. Discover Dogs at Crufts in March is an excellent place to meet the breeds in real life and maybe meet breeds you’d never considered! If you are considering a crossbreed, look at the profiles of the parent breeds as your puppy could show a mix of those traits.
Research what breeds were developed for. Expect spaniels to hunt, collies to herd, terriers to dig, and many small dogs to bark. Once you have chosen a breed, or at least made a shortlist, and met those breeds in person, you can start looking for a puppy!
Where should I look for a new puppy?
The best way to find a new best friend is to make contact with a breeder who has a litter planned. This allows you to meet the mother and maybe the father and discuss whether the puppies they have planned will fit in well to your home. Breeders may list planned litters on their website or on breed club websites and will want to have a good waiting list of prospective buyers before mating their dogs.
The Kennel Club website lists registered puppies for sale, as do some specialist dog websites. Be wary of puppies advertised in the local paper or on free-ad sites. The best breeders rehome their puppies by word of mouth and may never advertise at all.
Rescue and rehoming centres occasionally have puppies available which may be pure or mixed breed. Unlike puppies from a breeder, you won’t usually be able to find out anything about the father. Rescue pups can be a real surprise and may turn out very different from their mother.
When searching for a puppy expect to be asked lots of questions by the breeder or rescue to determine if you are able to offer a suitable home. You should also have your own list of questions. Important things to ask about include:
- Are the puppies raised in the home?
- Why did you breed this litter?
- Can I see the health tests for mum and dad?
- Will I be able to watch the development of the litter on a video stream or similar?
- Will my puppy be vaccinated/ flea treated/ wormed?
- What do you do to get the puppies ready for the outside world?
Remember that being on a waiting list is no guarantee of getting a puppy. If you are not successful the breeder may be able to recommend another litter, or suggest you wait until they breed again. The right puppy is worth waiting for.
How do I choose my new puppy?
You should be able to visit the litter from about 4 weeks of age when the mum is more relaxed about visitors (and the puppies are more interesting!). Some breeders will help you choose the puppy that best suits your circumstances, but generally avoid any very shy or nervous puppies unless you have a lot of puppy raising experience. Your choice may be limited if you are specific about the gender or colour of puppy you want.
Usually after spending a bit of time being climbed all over by a busy litter of puppies there will be one or two that take your eye. The breeder should be able to tell you about their personality, though bear in mind that this can change as they grow up.
What do I need before I bring my puppy home?
Good breeders and rehoming centres will provide an information pack for you to read through outlining how they have raised the litter, and what you will need to do when you get your puppy home. Key information you need includes:
- When the puppy has been vaccinated/ flea treated/ wormed and when this is due again.
- Information on the breed including health issues, grooming needs, training and exercise requirements.
- Information on diet (what they have been feeding, how much and when).
You should prepare for your new puppy by setting up a crate or bed in a pen to provide a safe and secure ‘bedroom’ for them. Buy in some of the food they have been eating and some tasty puppy treats. Consider plugging in a calming pheromone diffuser a few days before your puppy comes home to help them settle in.Calming collars and sprays can also be very useful to help your puppy during the first few stressful days
Choose some suitable toys for your puppy. Your puppy will appreciate a soft toy to snuggle up with and toys that you can fill with foodlike this chewy snake. Get a suitable sized collar for your puppy with a tag engraved with your name and address on.
Your puppy needs to be secure on their journey home so look for a travel box that you can snuggle them into. It is useful to have someone to watch the puppy on the journey home and someone else to drive to avoid dangerous distractions. Pheremone spray can be used in the travel box and try to take a toy or bit of bedding from the breeder which smells familiar.
When you collect your puppy expect to sign a contract which is designed to protect your rights, the breeder, and most importantly the puppy! You should receive your puppy’s microchip information (it is a legal requirement that puppies are chipped before sale), and registration documents, and information on their vaccinations (if given), flea, and worm treatment.
First days and nights with my new puppy!
Going to a new home is very stressful for a puppy, no matter how well the breeder and their new family have prepared. When you get your puppy home let them into a secure outdoor space to go to the toilet and then settle them into their puppy den. Offer some food and water, but don’t be surprised if they need coaxing to eat at first.
In the first few days just let your puppy settle in, bond with you, and learn where they should go to the toilet. Take them out for regular toileting breaks and play sessions but appreciate that your new arrival will need 16-18 hours sleep!
Your puppy may be unsettled at night at first as they will always have slept with their siblings. Some puppies will be happy in their pen on their own as long as you are nearby when they fall asleep. Others will wake frequently and need regular reassurance so you may want them to sleep near your bed, or you might camp out on the sofa! Your puppy will need to go to the toilet at some point in the night and you can choose to wake them up at a set time and take them out, or to wait for them to wake you up. Each day they should be able to hold things a little longer but expect accidents and setbacks.
If you want to change your puppy onto a new food, do this after 1-2 weeks when your puppy is settled in. Mix the new food in with the old one over a few days to avoid your puppy getting a tummy upset.
Book you puppy in for a vet visit in the first week for a health check, and to discuss vaccinations, flea, and worm treatments.
Our Vet Vicky LOVES to talk to potential puppy owners about making the best choice, as well as supporting them through those early days. Contact us at health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk for any puppy help!
PAIN AND PROBLEM BEHAVIOUR
How are Pain and Behaviour Problems Related?
Pain may be part of the reason for problem behaviours in up to 80%of cases. If an underlying painful condition is not identified and treated it is unlikely that the problem behaviour will be completely resolved. In some cases the problem behaviour disappears entirely when pain is addressed and no behavioural therapy is required!
Pain can affect behaviour in a number of ways. Behaviour may change because a dog is trying to avoid pain, or because pain is making them less tolerant of other things. Pain can reduce the amount of rest and quality sleep a dog gets and lack of rest is a significant factor in problem behaviours.
What Problem Behaviours May Be Due to Pain?
Almost any problem behaviour could be caused or made worse by pain, but common examples would include:
Refusing to go on walks or get into the car
Aggressive behaviour when stroked, groomed, or handled
Aggressive behaviour toward people, dogs, and other animals
Separation related distress
Self-mutilation (chewing or licking bodyparts until they are sore)
Cognitive decline symptoms in older dogs
Loss of house training
Sound sensitivity and noise phobias
Pain should be considered in all problem behaviours, especially when they start suddenly or become worse in a short space of time with no other obvious trigger.
How do I tell if my Dog is in Pain?
Before starting training or a behaviour modification plan for your dog it is advisable to ask your vet to do a thorough assessment for pain. This can be a challenge if your dog is scared in the vets or if their problem behaviour relates to being handled. Key areas your vet should look at include:
The mouth and teeth
The ears
The musculoskeletal system
The digestive system
You can help your vet identify possible sources of pain by watching your dog at home. Do they eat gingerly or chew on one side? Do they shake their head or scratch at their ears? Are they stiff when they get up or do they find getting on the sofa difficult? Are their poops normal and passed regularly?
Sometimes your vet may suspect pain but be unable to find what part hurts. In these cases the vet may suggest a trial of painkiller for a couple of weeks to see if the problem behaviour improves.
How can I help my dog with their Pain?
Your vet will prescribe appropriate medication for the painful condition that your dog has. In some cases, like an ear infection, one course of medication may be enough. If there is dental pain your dog may need extractions under anaesthetic. Occasionaly there may be a surgical solution to a painful problem.
Arthritis could require long term medication, but physiotherapy, hydrotherapy, acupuncture, non-slip flooring, supportive beds, and supplements can also be helpful.
Your behaviourist or trainer should be made aware of any medical conditions your dog has and medications that they are taking. Some medications can affect the way a dog learns, and it is important that any interventions (such as increasing exercise, playing with toys, or handling exercises) are designed to minimise the risk of causing further pain.
How Can Four Season Holistic Veterinary Care Help?
Our vet Vicky can often pick up on pain at a home visit that may be missed at the vets. She is able to help with acupuncture, herbal medicines, and exercise advice. As a veterinary behaviourist she can also work with complex cases where pain and problem behaviour are both present.
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
2024 AT FOUR SEASONS HOLISTIC VETERINARY CARE
The New Year brings new challenges. Changes to the RCVS ‘under care’ guidelines put further restrictions on services we can offer. It has become more important than ever that we only give advice and care after referral from your primary care vet who must be willing to provide out of hours care. The services we offer carry very little risk of directly causing a problem that would need emergency care, and we remain happy to support our clients and their vets with advice during working hours.
We have not made any New Year price rises as we understand the cost of living is difficult for everyone and strive to keep our services affordable. Unfortunatley we are getting a lot of potential clients choose cheaper advice from unqualified sources using over the counter remedies when we say we can’t give them advice without a (paid for) consultation first. Vets are bound by rules that pet shops and internet ‘experts’ simply aren’t. Only vets can legally diagnose what is medically wrong with an animal and prescribe treatments, and any paraprofessional should be asking for a referral and working with a primary care vet. Yet many don’t.
It feels like 2024 will be a make or break year for us, and it is no exxageration to say we are considering whether we can continue to offer the service our clients value.
2024 Services by Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care
Mobility/pain assessment and acupuncture treatments.
Behavioural assessment and treatment plans.
Holistic consultations with lifestyle, nutrition, and herbal medicine support.
Puppy and kitten litter health checks with microchipping.
Gundog puppy legal tail docking (strict eligibility conditions apply).
All services are offered in your own home, and we have access to a private field for some behaviour assessments.
Talks and Training by Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care
In 2023 we made anopther visit to The Falkland Islands to help dog owners better understand their pets. We we also asked to do a talk for canine hydrotherapists on the links between painful conditions and noise sensitivity. Pet First Aid continues to be a popular subject and we offer both a Facebook based ‘learn in your own time’ option as well as in person lectures and hands-on training.
Our vet Vicky Payne is happy to write and deliver talks on any of her areas of interest in-person, or online. Email health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk and pitch her an idea!
2024 Blogs…
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PROGESTERONE FOR PUPPY PLANNING
COMING INTO ‘SEASON’
The reproductive biology of female dogs is quite different to female humans. Dogs are only sexually receptive once or twice a year. The most common time between ‘seasons’ is 7 months, but some individuals have shorter or longer intervals. Dogs can have their first season from 6-18 months of age.
Dogs are not ready to mate when their season starts, which allows owners to plan mating, or plan on how to prevent mating! When your dog is in season you must avoid exercising her where there may be male dogs off lead and she should never be left unsupervised. If your dog is mated accidentally, call your vet for advice.
HOW DO I KNOW MY DOG IS IN SEASON?
Your dog may show changes in behaviour before her season. She may become clingy or aloof, more friendly with other dogs or less tolerant of them. Other dogs might start to show more interest in her.
The first day of her season is when you first see a pink or red discharge at the vulva. The vulva then swells significantly. Some bitches show abdominal discomfort in the first week of their season.
After 7-10 days the discharge becomes more straw coloured and the vulva less swollen. This is when your dog is approaching her fertile period. Mating at this point usually results in pregnancy because healthy dog sperm can survive up to 7 days in the female.
After 3-4 weeks your dogs will no longer be of interest to males and her vulva will reduce in size. If it is her first season her vulva will not return to its prepubertal size.
KNOWING WHEN TO MATE
Dates and Behaviour
Most dogs will conceive if mated between day 10 and 14 from the first day of their season. If she allows the dog to mate she is probably in her fertile window. Experienced stud dogs will also show less interest in a female dog if she is not around ovulation.
However, using these methods gives little indication of when puppies will be born. Pregnancy, if counted from mating, can appear to be as short as 58 days or as long as 69 days.
Ovulation Prediction
A test that can predict when a dog ovulates gives the breeder more information on when to mate the dog, but also when to expect puppies. The eggs are not ready to be fertilised until 2 days after ovulation and stay ready for up to 48hours. Dogs are pregnant for 63 days from ovulation (plus or minus one day).
Ovulation tests offered to breeders include blood progesterone testing, vaginal cytology, ovulation pads, and ferning.
Vaginal cytology can be accurate if it is performed by an experience person and repeated every 2 days from the start of the season until after mating.
Progesterone testing requires a blood sample to be taken by a vet (fertility clinics can run tests but only vets can take blood by law). The most accurate results are gained by testeing every 2 days from day 8 or 9 of the season until ovulation occurs. Single tests can be difficult to interpret in some cases.
Saliva ferning gives an indication of oestrogen levels but is not accurate enough on its own.
Other tests such as ovulation pads, vaginal pH, and electric conductivity are not scientifically validated and should be avoided.
Puppy Prediction
Puppies should arrive 62-64 days after ovulation, regardless of mating date. Large litters tend to arrive early, and small litters slightly later. If puppies have not arrive by day 65 from ovulation seek veterinary advice.
If the date of ovulation is unknown and a breeder is worried the puppies are late, or where a caesarian may be needed because there is only one big puppy, progesterone tests can be used to predict when it is safe to remove the puppies.
Progesterone drops sharply just before birth so progesterone is low the puppies need to be delivered. If it is still high the puppies can stay inside a bit longer. In very rare cases the drop doesn’t happen which is why knowing the true due date is so important.
PUPPY PLANNING
Chosing to breed a litter of puppies should not be done lightly. Breeding and raising puppies correctly is expensive, time consuming, and it can be both a joyful time and a time of heartbreak. Speak to your vet and to experienced mentors before deciding to breed your dog.
HIPS SCORES FOR BREEDING DOGS
HIP IN THE UK – ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT?
Breeders of many dog breeds choose to use the Kennel Club/ British Veterinary Association Hip and Elbow schemes to try and select the parents least likely to produce puppies with hip or elbow dysplasia. But is the scheme working? Some think not.
SLOW PROGRESS IN HIP SCORES
Research shows that years of hip scoring has increased the percentage of dogs with the lowest scores, but it hasn’t made much impact on the numbers with mild hip dysplasia or worse. So is there any point? The problem with these studies is that they are based on the results from images submitted to the scheme and these are not representative of the state of any breed as a whole. Firstly only a small percentage of dogs are selected as potential breeding dogs, in some breeds not all potential breeding dogs are tested, only sound dogs over a year are usually tested, and (despite the scheme rules) some vets don’t send in images of hips they think will get a poor score. The published results only reflect the better end of the spectrum and give very little data on the worst hips, or dogs which are diagnosed before 12months of age. As a GP vet I believe I see far fewer dogs that are lame with hip dysplasia at 6-12months, and less dogs needing treatment for hip arthritis before they reach 8-10 years old than I did as a young vet so I think hip scoring is doing a lot of good… but you can’t publish a paper without data.
THE BABY AND THE BATHWATER?
Researchers only consider hips with a total score under 5 as ‘normal’. Most dogs with scores of 6-10 will have no changes in their hips over time, and even dogs scoring up to 20 will probably suffer only manageable arthritic pain in old age. Whilst it may be the Holy Grail to produce only puppies with normal hips, it must always be remebered that a dog is more than their health tests. If we select too strongly for excellent hip scores we might lose temperament, type, working ability, and we will definitley shrink the gene pool which can lead to other genetic probems cropping up.
IMPROVING HIP SCORES IN THE UK
Hip scores could be reduced in UK dogs by adopting one or more of the following methods;
Score later
Taking images for hip scoring at 12months, as we do in the UK, could miss up to 30% of dogs which will go on to develop hip dysplasia in later life. Waiting until dogs are over 2 years old (as for the American OFFA scheme) reduces this to under 10%.
Score differently
The standard ventro-dorsal extended leg view used by most hip schemes makes the joint look tighter than it is in the standing dog. As joint laxity is the most heritable and most significant driver of hip dysplasia using a test that measure joint laxity allows us to predict whether a dog will get hip dysplasia more accurately. The PennHIP test can be done in young dogs (from 16 weeks) so is a useful screening test for breeders choosing which dogs to keep. It is less used than the BVA scheme as vets need extra training and certification, and positioning for the 3 images is more complicated and time consuming (in the USA dogs are often held for the films, in the UK holding dogs for non-emergency x-rays is forbidden).
Use genetic tests
So far we only have one genetic test for hip dysplasia. The Dysgen test looks at several markers which may reflect a higher predisposition to hip dysplasia. As yet the test is only validated for Labrador Retrievers, and there is little guidance on how it can be used to make breeding decisions.
Use estimate breeding values and vertical pedigrees
By looking at the scores of a dog’s relatives and offspring it is possible to get an indea whether they will produce puppies with scores similar to, better, or worse than their own. The Kennel Club publishes EBVs for dogs in some of the more common breeds but where a dog has few tested relatives the accuracy reduces.
Move the goalposts
At the moment the recommendation is to breed from dogs with a score equal to or less than the 5 year median (middle score) for the breed. Though logical to breed from average or better than average dogs, this does have challenges and limitations. As previously mentioned, the median score is calculated only from submitted images, so if there are lots of young lame dogs that aren’t scored the median could be artificially low. Alternatively, if a breed generally has poor hips the average may still be unacceptably high.
Research suggests that if we chose only to breed from the lowest 25 or 30% of dogs hip scores would come down more quickly. However, this could lead to a reduction in overall genetic diversity and selection for other issues. Alternatively we could look at the scores regardless of breed and suggest only breeding from ‘excellent’, ‘good’, and maybe ‘fair’ scores, putting ‘fair’ to ‘excellent’ (this grading is more similar to that used in Europe and America than our numbers based system). But again, if we focus in too much on hips, we risk creating new problems. And in some breeds there would be almost no dogs left to breed!
HOW TO USE HIP SCORES IN BREEDING PROGRAMMES
The aim of a breeding programme won’t be the same for every breeder. For working animals, such as Guide Dogs or Police Dogs, it may be important to produce as many dogs as possible with ‘normal’ hips to ensure a long working life. Here it may make sense to use PennHIP to screen potential breeding dogs at an early stage, and if using the BVA scheme to choose animals with a score of 10 or less. If a dog has other good characteristics but a slighty higher score (up to 14) they could be paired with a lower scoring mate, especially if they have a good EBV.
For pet dogs a good temperament is the most important thing, and buyers may be more accepting of a dog needing medical support for arthritis as they hit double figures. Using breeding dogs with scores under 15 and excellent temperaments is probably sufficient, and there shouldn’t be a temptation to use a very low scoring dog if they aren’t of sound temperament!
In a breed with a high average hip score or low numbers the aim might be to reduce the score of puppies more gradually. This may mean pairing above average scores with below average scores.
Some vets take a huge interest in breeding better dogs and are happy to discuss the results of your dog’s tests, or the result of teh parents of a puppy you are considering. Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care can’t take radiographs for the BVA scheme, though our vet also works at Companion Care Vets in Eastbourne (01323 649325) who can. We can offer telephone consultations to discuss results.
A BITE FROM THE BLUE – DOES YOUR DOG HAVE RAGE SYNDROME?
DOES MY DOG HAVE ‘RAGE SYNDROME’?
Probably not.
‘Rage syndrome’ is a label applied to dogs who are described as biting their humans out of the blue and with no warning. The attacks are often described as frenzied and the dog is often said to have been acting normally seconds before the attack. ‘Rage syndrome’ is most often described in solid coloured Cocker Spaniels, especially red ones, but has also been described in other spaniels and non-spaniel breeds.
There is little good scientific research on ‘Rage syndrome’ and what there is points to this most often being a problem behaviour related to rescource guarding rather than a mysterious tendancy to attack for no reason. In their 1996 paper Podberscek and Serpell (1) did find increased aggression in solid colour cockers, but attributed most of it to ‘social dominance’ and protection of territory and possessions. They suggested there was a genetic component to the behaviour, which is not surprising as we accept that many personality traits have a genetic basis. It may have been that by paying more attention to the colours of dogs than to temperament breeders were creating pups with traits unsuitable for familiy life.
In their book ‘EMRA Intelligence’ Falconer-Taylor, Neville, and Strong (2) describe a typical case presented to the behaviourist as ‘Cocker Rage’. What they found was not a dog with an incurable genetic predisposition to unpredictable aggression, but a rather bored and frustrated dog . He was trying to communicate to his people when he was unhappy through his body language, and if they ignored that by growling, but sometimes they just didn’t hear his communication and he was pushed to snap at them. By teaching his owners how to meet his needs and listen to him, Bracken the Cocker becaome a content and safe family pet.
When someone tells me that a dog has ‘rage syndrome’ there are three key questions I ask. Could the dog be in pain? Where was the dog when the aggression occured? Was there anything of value to the dog around when the aggression occured?
Pain affects sleep, mobility, can be chronic but with acute flare-ups, it can affect mood and we appreciate in humans that it will make us short-tempered, so why not dogs? If the aggression is related to grooming and handling a through vet check to look for pain is advisable. Even aggression related to being stroked can be because the person accidentally touched a sore area.
Often the aggression is related to objects such as a bed or sofa, toys, and found items or to food and treats. It can even be connected to a particular person. This is termed ‘resource guarding’ and is understandable when you thing that without shelter, food, and protection a dog could die! Puppies need to be taught early on that humans (and other pets) are not going to steal their food. They need to be taught good cues to get off beds and furniture for a reward, and they need to be taught to give up toys or found objects on cue for a reward. Sleeping dogs should be gently roused so they aren’t startled into biting and dogs should be controlled around flash points like the front door as this area causes a complicated mix of strong emptions in so many dogs!
THE BITE FROM THE BLUE
“Yes,” you say, “but the dog I’m talking about just bit out of the blue with no warning!”
This is rarely true, at least not to begin with. Dogs are very good at communicating how they feel, but humans are not very good at listening to dogs. I say ‘listening’ but I should say ‘watching’ as most dog communication is non verbal. Early signs that a dog is not comfortable can be trying to withdrawn from contact, stiffness, a slow stiff tail wag, showing the whites of the eyes, and pining the ears back. If we ignore those the dog might try showing their teeth, standing over an object, or growling. At this point people tend to notice and might punish the dog by shouting or even hitting the dog. This works to stop the dog snarling or growling, but it doesn’t stop the dog feeling very unhappy about the situation. The dog learns not to growl, because they get punished so goes straight from subtle body language into an air snap. If you watch dogs together they are veyr good at dodging warning air snaps… people less so, and we get bitten. At this point most dogs who have been taught that biting people is not acceptable retreat and ‘look guilty’, they don’t show the frenzied attack of the ‘rage’ dog. But, if their bite is met with screaming, shouting, or hitting the dog may be so afraid that they attack as a form of self-defence. Sadly this can result in severe injuries to anyone who is in the way and could even be fatal to a child.
SO ‘RAGE SYNDROME’ ISN’T A REAL THING?
I have encountered a very small number of dogs who I believe have something pathological behind their aggression which we might call ‘rage’. In The Behavioural Biology of Dogs, Hedhammar and Hultin-Jäderlund (3) note that abnormal EEGs have been found in some dogs displaying ‘rage’ which point towards the idea that it is a form of epilepsy. I know people who live with hallucinatory forms of epilepsy which can be frightening until they get a diagnosis. I can imagine that seeing a frightening or confusing image could cause the symptoms of my ‘rage’ cases, namely dilated pupils (described by owners as trhe eyes going red as they see the retina) suggesting their ‘flight or flight’ system is triggered, and growling at thin air. People get bitten when they try to comfort the dog, or move into the field of vision and the bites are deep and multiple as when dogs are in self-defence mode.
I have not had great success with these pathological cases. Other vets and behaviourists have found anti-epileptic drugs to help some dogs, but many are euthanased as their atacks cannot be predicted or managed.
WHAT DO I DO IF MY DOGS IS GROWLING AND BITING?
- Sit down and identify when your dog growls and snaps. Often ‘random’ aggression is not so random when you really think about it. This can give you and your behaviourist clues as to why your dog isn’t happy.
- Book a vet check. Your behaviourist will want this before engaging in anything other than an emergency management plan. Make sure your vet knows why you are asking and does a thorough examination including the mouth, eyes, ears, abdomen, and musculoskeletal system. If your dog is aggressive when handled this may require pre-visit medication and a muzzle. Your vet may want to do blood tests, especially in older animals where medical conditions can make them less tolerant.
- Engage with a behaviourist who understands the emotional basis of problem behaviours such as those with COAPE qualifications and/or CAPBT members.
References
I don’t usually do references, but here are two articles you can read, and a book you can buy or find in a library that I used in writing this piece.
- https://d1wqtxts1xzle7.cloudfront.net/41637557/Environmental_influences_on_the_expressi20160127-20205-l6aq70-libre.pdf?1453905122=&response-content-disposition=inline%3B+filename%3DEnvironmental_influences_on_the_expressi.pdf&Expires=1673962846&Signature=S3zRQ5gfuyA2ZVAkEY6z4ffUqm1CUJ~BF-sD7wcVYb~mN1-M2MV2Bi2R1mqh1UOAre3R4P3fjfoh5dp1RHQoU0eSCV~~ZoHdNpuBbIMfnlwswztX-stNovVjmwA~bUgQ813RkckoqetMjI0GoMPR673tdyD7AQmfeFnjS~DoFWmOyAdM4GUFwea8Mqq-Cq8-Cf8mhmGgn6CNxClUOowicr5zF~ygHv4hVs~SEmT8mV7PLTftb5wYp8A3RKxDEjCrh08nhmfaRffnFLBHYqrYq0VgJfATMmuj5GWRMHp9ekLQ6EupkwrkIPMWfxWxvQo-eTBTdW81-y9webjbCkbRqw__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAJLOHF5GGSLRBV4ZA
- https://www.abebooks.co.uk/book-search/author/robert-falconer-taylor-peter-neville-val-strong/
- http://sherekashmir.informaticspublishing.com/671/1/9781845931872.pdf#page=253
VETS IN CRISIS
There is a shortage of vets
I’m struggling.
Every visit I go on, every training class I take or attend, every dog event I go to I am hearing the same thing. Pet owners can’t get an appointment with their vet. It sucks.
It sucks to call up to book your dog’s vaccination in only to be told they can’t book a routine appointment until December. It sucks to call up hoping to book a consultation on Friday afternoon when you finish early for something that isn’t life threatening, but is worrying you only to be told you will have to ring at 8.30 on the morning to see if there is space. It sucks to have to drive to a clinic 20 miles away in an Emergency because your local emergency clinic has shut down. It sucks to be the receptionist telling you this stuff too.
So what’s going on?
Brexit? Brexit carries some blame. Some of our European vets went home and it has become more expensive to employ a European vet now.
Covid? Another possible factor. Some vets from Europe and further afield went home when they realised that at any point they could be trapped in the UK, unable to get home to visit family. Long covid has also forced some vets out of the job, and still others struggle to work full time.
The job? Some older vets are retiring because they feel left behind by new drugs and new technology, some just deserve a break after 40 odd years in practice. Young vets aren’t finding the job fits their expectations; some find the routine work of a GP vet unfulfilling, others are so scared of complaints that they won’t push themselves to try new surgeries or to treat more complex medical cases. The job should be less stressful than it was when I graduated over 20 years ago… most small animal clinics have less or no out of hours and there is a huge network of referral centres for the complicated stuff. And yet… clients expect more and more and a blame culture has crept in which has us all on edge.
Big bad corporates? Full disclosure; I work for one part time and have worked for others in the past. Maybe in some the focus is on vets making money for shareholders, but that hasn’t been my experience. These companies buy practices because nobody else will. They buy them because they are a safe investment and they accept that they are high turnover, yet low profit businesses.
Money? Vets are well paid, right? Yes and no. If you have a 15minute consultation and get a bill for £100 how much do you think the vet gets? About £5. Vet practices are expensive to run so a surprisingly small percentage of your bill goes to the vet. It isn’t a badly paid job, but there are easier ways to make a living!
More pets? I don’t know if there are more pets now than a few years ago. Certainly we were warned that pet ownership was in decline and vets would need to find ways to keep clients! Covid might have changed that with people getting dogs and cats instead of going on holidays. A concern is that we might not be seeing all these new pets to advise their owners on good healthcare and this may be storing up a problem for the future.
What’s going to happen?
Sadly being a holistic vet doesn’t give me the power to see the future. We can’t whip up new vets fast, and applications to the vet schools are dropping. Paying veterinary staff more might keep some people in their jobs, but that would mean rising prices for pet owners at a time when their living costs (and the cost of running a veterinary practice!) are climbing fast. And if the job is too stressful no amount of money makes it worth staying.
How can I help my vet?
Plan ahead for routine appointments like vaccinations and medication reviews. Allow at least 2 working days when putting in a repeat prescription request. Keep up your pet’s preventative healthcare. And try to be kind, even when we can’t give you the appointment you hoped for. We are doing our best.