GETTING A NEW PUPPY
Deciding to add a new puppy to your family is big decision that can’t be taken lightly. A puppy is a 15-year commitment, and you are responsible for every aspect of their life. Puppies are great fun, but they are also hard work. By planning ahead and being prepared you can choose the perfect new best friend.
Am I ready for a puppy?
There are many benefits to adding a puppy to your family. Studies show that pet ownership can reduce stress and improve physical and mental health. However, it isn’t fair to get a puppy to try and fix problems in your life.
A puppy won’t be a running or hiking partner for 12-18months and they will test your patience at many stages in their development. Puppies can be great companions for children, and some can help children and young adults with additional needs, but not all puppies are suitable for these roles and specialist advice should be sought.
With correct preparation, and adequate physical and mental stimulation adult dogs can be eft for several hours a day while their families are at work and school. Puppies need someone at home with them all the time for their first few weeks as they settle in an learn that they can be safe ‘home alone’. Before bringing a puppy home it is important that you have arrangements in place for their support in the first weeks and beyond.
Puppies are expensive, a 2023 study suggested that a dog costs over £1500 a year to care for. Before looking for a puppy ensure that you have the budget for their purchase price or adoption fee as well as investigating the costs of daily care such as feeding, bedding, routine veterinary care, and insurance. You also need to be able to fund emergency care and have a plan about who will care for your dog if you can’t, both short and long term.
What sort of puppy would suit my family?
There are over 200 pedigree dog breeds recognised by the Kennel Club in the UK, and many more across the world. There are also lots of popular crossbreeds such as ‘Labradoodles’ and Lurchers, as well as mixed breeds. There is a breed, cross, or type of dog out there to suit almost every family!
When thinking about what sort of puppy will suit your family think about how active you are, how big your home is, how much time you will have for grooming, and whether you might want to take part on any dog sports. Surprisingly some large breeds can be very chilled out and take up less space in the home than very active smaller breeds! The Kennel Club website has descriptions of all the recognised breeds and suggestions on how much exercise and grooming they need which can be helpful in drawing up a shortlist.
Breed enthusiasts are always happy to talk to prospective puppy families about whether a breed will suit them. Discover Dogs at Crufts in March is an excellent place to meet the breeds in real life and maybe meet breeds you’d never considered! If you are considering a crossbreed, look at the profiles of the parent breeds as your puppy could show a mix of those traits.
Research what breeds were developed for. Expect spaniels to hunt, collies to herd, terriers to dig, and many small dogs to bark. Once you have chosen a breed, or at least made a shortlist, and met those breeds in person, you can start looking for a puppy!
Where should I look for a new puppy?
The best way to find a new best friend is to make contact with a breeder who has a litter planned. This allows you to meet the mother and maybe the father and discuss whether the puppies they have planned will fit in well to your home. Breeders may list planned litters on their website or on breed club websites and will want to have a good waiting list of prospective buyers before mating their dogs.
The Kennel Club website lists registered puppies for sale, as do some specialist dog websites. Be wary of puppies advertised in the local paper or on free-ad sites. The best breeders rehome their puppies by word of mouth and may never advertise at all.
Rescue and rehoming centres occasionally have puppies available which may be pure or mixed breed. Unlike puppies from a breeder, you won’t usually be able to find out anything about the father. Rescue pups can be a real surprise and may turn out very different from their mother.
When searching for a puppy expect to be asked lots of questions by the breeder or rescue to determine if you are able to offer a suitable home. You should also have your own list of questions. Important things to ask about include:
- Are the puppies raised in the home?
- Why did you breed this litter?
- Can I see the health tests for mum and dad?
- Will I be able to watch the development of the litter on a video stream or similar?
- Will my puppy be vaccinated/ flea treated/ wormed?
- What do you do to get the puppies ready for the outside world?
Remember that being on a waiting list is no guarantee of getting a puppy. If you are not successful the breeder may be able to recommend another litter, or suggest you wait until they breed again. The right puppy is worth waiting for.
How do I choose my new puppy?
You should be able to visit the litter from about 4 weeks of age when the mum is more relaxed about visitors (and the puppies are more interesting!). Some breeders will help you choose the puppy that best suits your circumstances, but generally avoid any very shy or nervous puppies unless you have a lot of puppy raising experience. Your choice may be limited if you are specific about the gender or colour of puppy you want.
Usually after spending a bit of time being climbed all over by a busy litter of puppies there will be one or two that take your eye. The breeder should be able to tell you about their personality, though bear in mind that this can change as they grow up.
What do I need before I bring my puppy home?
Good breeders and rehoming centres will provide an information pack for you to read through outlining how they have raised the litter, and what you will need to do when you get your puppy home. Key information you need includes:
- When the puppy has been vaccinated/ flea treated/ wormed and when this is due again.
- Information on the breed including health issues, grooming needs, training and exercise requirements.
- Information on diet (what they have been feeding, how much and when).
You should prepare for your new puppy by setting up a crate or bed in a pen to provide a safe and secure ‘bedroom’ for them. Buy in some of the food they have been eating and some tasty puppy treats. Consider plugging in a calming pheromone diffuser a few days before your puppy comes home to help them settle in.Calming collars and sprays can also be very useful to help your puppy during the first few stressful days
Choose some suitable toys for your puppy. Your puppy will appreciate a soft toy to snuggle up with and toys that you can fill with foodlike this chewy snake. Get a suitable sized collar for your puppy with a tag engraved with your name and address on.
Your puppy needs to be secure on their journey home so look for a travel box that you can snuggle them into. It is useful to have someone to watch the puppy on the journey home and someone else to drive to avoid dangerous distractions. Pheremone spray can be used in the travel box and try to take a toy or bit of bedding from the breeder which smells familiar.
When you collect your puppy expect to sign a contract which is designed to protect your rights, the breeder, and most importantly the puppy! You should receive your puppy’s microchip information (it is a legal requirement that puppies are chipped before sale), and registration documents, and information on their vaccinations (if given), flea, and worm treatment.
First days and nights with my new puppy!
Going to a new home is very stressful for a puppy, no matter how well the breeder and their new family have prepared. When you get your puppy home let them into a secure outdoor space to go to the toilet and then settle them into their puppy den. Offer some food and water, but don’t be surprised if they need coaxing to eat at first.
In the first few days just let your puppy settle in, bond with you, and learn where they should go to the toilet. Take them out for regular toileting breaks and play sessions but appreciate that your new arrival will need 16-18 hours sleep!
Your puppy may be unsettled at night at first as they will always have slept with their siblings. Some puppies will be happy in their pen on their own as long as you are nearby when they fall asleep. Others will wake frequently and need regular reassurance so you may want them to sleep near your bed, or you might camp out on the sofa! Your puppy will need to go to the toilet at some point in the night and you can choose to wake them up at a set time and take them out, or to wait for them to wake you up. Each day they should be able to hold things a little longer but expect accidents and setbacks.
If you want to change your puppy onto a new food, do this after 1-2 weeks when your puppy is settled in. Mix the new food in with the old one over a few days to avoid your puppy getting a tummy upset.
Book you puppy in for a vet visit in the first week for a health check, and to discuss vaccinations, flea, and worm treatments.
Our Vet Vicky LOVES to talk to potential puppy owners about making the best choice, as well as supporting them through those early days. Contact us at health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk for any puppy help!
PAIN AND PROBLEM BEHAVIOUR
How are Pain and Behaviour Problems Related?
Pain may be part of the reason for problem behaviours in up to 80%of cases. If an underlying painful condition is not identified and treated it is unlikely that the problem behaviour will be completely resolved. In some cases the problem behaviour disappears entirely when pain is addressed and no behavioural therapy is required!
Pain can affect behaviour in a number of ways. Behaviour may change because a dog is trying to avoid pain, or because pain is making them less tolerant of other things. Pain can reduce the amount of rest and quality sleep a dog gets and lack of rest is a significant factor in problem behaviours.
What Problem Behaviours May Be Due to Pain?
Almost any problem behaviour could be caused or made worse by pain, but common examples would include:
Refusing to go on walks or get into the car
Aggressive behaviour when stroked, groomed, or handled
Aggressive behaviour toward people, dogs, and other animals
Separation related distress
Self-mutilation (chewing or licking bodyparts until they are sore)
Cognitive decline symptoms in older dogs
Loss of house training
Sound sensitivity and noise phobias
Pain should be considered in all problem behaviours, especially when they start suddenly or become worse in a short space of time with no other obvious trigger.
How do I tell if my Dog is in Pain?
Before starting training or a behaviour modification plan for your dog it is advisable to ask your vet to do a thorough assessment for pain. This can be a challenge if your dog is scared in the vets or if their problem behaviour relates to being handled. Key areas your vet should look at include:
The mouth and teeth
The ears
The musculoskeletal system
The digestive system
You can help your vet identify possible sources of pain by watching your dog at home. Do they eat gingerly or chew on one side? Do they shake their head or scratch at their ears? Are they stiff when they get up or do they find getting on the sofa difficult? Are their poops normal and passed regularly?
Sometimes your vet may suspect pain but be unable to find what part hurts. In these cases the vet may suggest a trial of painkiller for a couple of weeks to see if the problem behaviour improves.
How can I help my dog with their Pain?
Your vet will prescribe appropriate medication for the painful condition that your dog has. In some cases, like an ear infection, one course of medication may be enough. If there is dental pain your dog may need extractions under anaesthetic. Occasionaly there may be a surgical solution to a painful problem.
Arthritis could require long term medication, but physiotherapy, hydrotherapy, acupuncture, non-slip flooring, supportive beds, and supplements can also be helpful.
Your behaviourist or trainer should be made aware of any medical conditions your dog has and medications that they are taking. Some medications can affect the way a dog learns, and it is important that any interventions (such as increasing exercise, playing with toys, or handling exercises) are designed to minimise the risk of causing further pain.
How Can Four Season Holistic Veterinary Care Help?
Our vet Vicky can often pick up on pain at a home visit that may be missed at the vets. She is able to help with acupuncture, herbal medicines, and exercise advice. As a veterinary behaviourist she can also work with complex cases where pain and problem behaviour are both present.
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
2024 AT FOUR SEASONS HOLISTIC VETERINARY CARE
The New Year brings new challenges. Changes to the RCVS ‘under care’ guidelines put further restrictions on services we can offer. It has become more important than ever that we only give advice and care after referral from your primary care vet who must be willing to provide out of hours care. The services we offer carry very little risk of directly causing a problem that would need emergency care, and we remain happy to support our clients and their vets with advice during working hours.
We have not made any New Year price rises as we understand the cost of living is difficult for everyone and strive to keep our services affordable. Unfortunatley we are getting a lot of potential clients choose cheaper advice from unqualified sources using over the counter remedies when we say we can’t give them advice without a (paid for) consultation first. Vets are bound by rules that pet shops and internet ‘experts’ simply aren’t. Only vets can legally diagnose what is medically wrong with an animal and prescribe treatments, and any paraprofessional should be asking for a referral and working with a primary care vet. Yet many don’t.
It feels like 2024 will be a make or break year for us, and it is no exxageration to say we are considering whether we can continue to offer the service our clients value.
2024 Services by Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care
Mobility/pain assessment and acupuncture treatments.
Behavioural assessment and treatment plans.
Holistic consultations with lifestyle, nutrition, and herbal medicine support.
Puppy and kitten litter health checks with microchipping.
Gundog puppy legal tail docking (strict eligibility conditions apply).
All services are offered in your own home, and we have access to a private field for some behaviour assessments.
Talks and Training by Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care
In 2023 we made anopther visit to The Falkland Islands to help dog owners better understand their pets. We we also asked to do a talk for canine hydrotherapists on the links between painful conditions and noise sensitivity. Pet First Aid continues to be a popular subject and we offer both a Facebook based ‘learn in your own time’ option as well as in person lectures and hands-on training.
Our vet Vicky Payne is happy to write and deliver talks on any of her areas of interest in-person, or online. Email health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk and pitch her an idea!
2024 Blogs…
Every year we promise to do better at keeping this page up to date with fresh content… but the truth is, we don’t feel like anyone is reading it and we have to log into an actual desktop computer to write on it! Our Facebook page does a little better, and is easier to share things on, so maybe give us a follow https://www.facebook.com/holisticvetsussex
PROGESTERONE FOR PUPPY PLANNING
COMING INTO ‘SEASON’
The reproductive biology of female dogs is quite different to female humans. Dogs are only sexually receptive once or twice a year. The most common time between ‘seasons’ is 7 months, but some individuals have shorter or longer intervals. Dogs can have their first season from 6-18 months of age.
Dogs are not ready to mate when their season starts, which allows owners to plan mating, or plan on how to prevent mating! When your dog is in season you must avoid exercising her where there may be male dogs off lead and she should never be left unsupervised. If your dog is mated accidentally, call your vet for advice.
HOW DO I KNOW MY DOG IS IN SEASON?
Your dog may show changes in behaviour before her season. She may become clingy or aloof, more friendly with other dogs or less tolerant of them. Other dogs might start to show more interest in her.
The first day of her season is when you first see a pink or red discharge at the vulva. The vulva then swells significantly. Some bitches show abdominal discomfort in the first week of their season.
After 7-10 days the discharge becomes more straw coloured and the vulva less swollen. This is when your dog is approaching her fertile period. Mating at this point usually results in pregnancy because healthy dog sperm can survive up to 7 days in the female.
After 3-4 weeks your dogs will no longer be of interest to males and her vulva will reduce in size. If it is her first season her vulva will not return to its prepubertal size.
KNOWING WHEN TO MATE
Dates and Behaviour
Most dogs will conceive if mated between day 10 and 14 from the first day of their season. If she allows the dog to mate she is probably in her fertile window. Experienced stud dogs will also show less interest in a female dog if she is not around ovulation.
However, using these methods gives little indication of when puppies will be born. Pregnancy, if counted from mating, can appear to be as short as 58 days or as long as 69 days.
Ovulation Prediction
A test that can predict when a dog ovulates gives the breeder more information on when to mate the dog, but also when to expect puppies. The eggs are not ready to be fertilised until 2 days after ovulation and stay ready for up to 48hours. Dogs are pregnant for 63 days from ovulation (plus or minus one day).
Ovulation tests offered to breeders include blood progesterone testing, vaginal cytology, ovulation pads, and ferning.
Vaginal cytology can be accurate if it is performed by an experience person and repeated every 2 days from the start of the season until after mating.
Progesterone testing requires a blood sample to be taken by a vet (fertility clinics can run tests but only vets can take blood by law). The most accurate results are gained by testeing every 2 days from day 8 or 9 of the season until ovulation occurs. Single tests can be difficult to interpret in some cases.
Saliva ferning gives an indication of oestrogen levels but is not accurate enough on its own.
Other tests such as ovulation pads, vaginal pH, and electric conductivity are not scientifically validated and should be avoided.
Puppy Prediction
Puppies should arrive 62-64 days after ovulation, regardless of mating date. Large litters tend to arrive early, and small litters slightly later. If puppies have not arrive by day 65 from ovulation seek veterinary advice.
If the date of ovulation is unknown and a breeder is worried the puppies are late, or where a caesarian may be needed because there is only one big puppy, progesterone tests can be used to predict when it is safe to remove the puppies.
Progesterone drops sharply just before birth so progesterone is low the puppies need to be delivered. If it is still high the puppies can stay inside a bit longer. In very rare cases the drop doesn’t happen which is why knowing the true due date is so important.
PUPPY PLANNING
Chosing to breed a litter of puppies should not be done lightly. Breeding and raising puppies correctly is expensive, time consuming, and it can be both a joyful time and a time of heartbreak. Speak to your vet and to experienced mentors before deciding to breed your dog.
HIPS SCORES FOR BREEDING DOGS
HIP IN THE UK – ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT?
Breeders of many dog breeds choose to use the Kennel Club/ British Veterinary Association Hip and Elbow schemes to try and select the parents least likely to produce puppies with hip or elbow dysplasia. But is the scheme working? Some think not.
SLOW PROGRESS IN HIP SCORES
Research shows that years of hip scoring has increased the percentage of dogs with the lowest scores, but it hasn’t made much impact on the numbers with mild hip dysplasia or worse. So is there any point? The problem with these studies is that they are based on the results from images submitted to the scheme and these are not representative of the state of any breed as a whole. Firstly only a small percentage of dogs are selected as potential breeding dogs, in some breeds not all potential breeding dogs are tested, only sound dogs over a year are usually tested, and (despite the scheme rules) some vets don’t send in images of hips they think will get a poor score. The published results only reflect the better end of the spectrum and give very little data on the worst hips, or dogs which are diagnosed before 12months of age. As a GP vet I believe I see far fewer dogs that are lame with hip dysplasia at 6-12months, and less dogs needing treatment for hip arthritis before they reach 8-10 years old than I did as a young vet so I think hip scoring is doing a lot of good… but you can’t publish a paper without data.
THE BABY AND THE BATHWATER?
Researchers only consider hips with a total score under 5 as ‘normal’. Most dogs with scores of 6-10 will have no changes in their hips over time, and even dogs scoring up to 20 will probably suffer only manageable arthritic pain in old age. Whilst it may be the Holy Grail to produce only puppies with normal hips, it must always be remebered that a dog is more than their health tests. If we select too strongly for excellent hip scores we might lose temperament, type, working ability, and we will definitley shrink the gene pool which can lead to other genetic probems cropping up.
IMPROVING HIP SCORES IN THE UK
Hip scores could be reduced in UK dogs by adopting one or more of the following methods;
Score later
Taking images for hip scoring at 12months, as we do in the UK, could miss up to 30% of dogs which will go on to develop hip dysplasia in later life. Waiting until dogs are over 2 years old (as for the American OFFA scheme) reduces this to under 10%.
Score differently
The standard ventro-dorsal extended leg view used by most hip schemes makes the joint look tighter than it is in the standing dog. As joint laxity is the most heritable and most significant driver of hip dysplasia using a test that measure joint laxity allows us to predict whether a dog will get hip dysplasia more accurately. The PennHIP test can be done in young dogs (from 16 weeks) so is a useful screening test for breeders choosing which dogs to keep. It is less used than the BVA scheme as vets need extra training and certification, and positioning for the 3 images is more complicated and time consuming (in the USA dogs are often held for the films, in the UK holding dogs for non-emergency x-rays is forbidden).
Use genetic tests
So far we only have one genetic test for hip dysplasia. The Dysgen test looks at several markers which may reflect a higher predisposition to hip dysplasia. As yet the test is only validated for Labrador Retrievers, and there is little guidance on how it can be used to make breeding decisions.
Use estimate breeding values and vertical pedigrees
By looking at the scores of a dog’s relatives and offspring it is possible to get an indea whether they will produce puppies with scores similar to, better, or worse than their own. The Kennel Club publishes EBVs for dogs in some of the more common breeds but where a dog has few tested relatives the accuracy reduces.
Move the goalposts
At the moment the recommendation is to breed from dogs with a score equal to or less than the 5 year median (middle score) for the breed. Though logical to breed from average or better than average dogs, this does have challenges and limitations. As previously mentioned, the median score is calculated only from submitted images, so if there are lots of young lame dogs that aren’t scored the median could be artificially low. Alternatively, if a breed generally has poor hips the average may still be unacceptably high.
Research suggests that if we chose only to breed from the lowest 25 or 30% of dogs hip scores would come down more quickly. However, this could lead to a reduction in overall genetic diversity and selection for other issues. Alternatively we could look at the scores regardless of breed and suggest only breeding from ‘excellent’, ‘good’, and maybe ‘fair’ scores, putting ‘fair’ to ‘excellent’ (this grading is more similar to that used in Europe and America than our numbers based system). But again, if we focus in too much on hips, we risk creating new problems. And in some breeds there would be almost no dogs left to breed!
HOW TO USE HIP SCORES IN BREEDING PROGRAMMES
The aim of a breeding programme won’t be the same for every breeder. For working animals, such as Guide Dogs or Police Dogs, it may be important to produce as many dogs as possible with ‘normal’ hips to ensure a long working life. Here it may make sense to use PennHIP to screen potential breeding dogs at an early stage, and if using the BVA scheme to choose animals with a score of 10 or less. If a dog has other good characteristics but a slighty higher score (up to 14) they could be paired with a lower scoring mate, especially if they have a good EBV.
For pet dogs a good temperament is the most important thing, and buyers may be more accepting of a dog needing medical support for arthritis as they hit double figures. Using breeding dogs with scores under 15 and excellent temperaments is probably sufficient, and there shouldn’t be a temptation to use a very low scoring dog if they aren’t of sound temperament!
In a breed with a high average hip score or low numbers the aim might be to reduce the score of puppies more gradually. This may mean pairing above average scores with below average scores.
Some vets take a huge interest in breeding better dogs and are happy to discuss the results of your dog’s tests, or the result of teh parents of a puppy you are considering. Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care can’t take radiographs for the BVA scheme, though our vet also works at Companion Care Vets in Eastbourne (01323 649325) who can. We can offer telephone consultations to discuss results.
A BITE FROM THE BLUE – DOES YOUR DOG HAVE RAGE SYNDROME?
DOES MY DOG HAVE ‘RAGE SYNDROME’?
Probably not.
‘Rage syndrome’ is a label applied to dogs who are described as biting their humans out of the blue and with no warning. The attacks are often described as frenzied and the dog is often said to have been acting normally seconds before the attack. ‘Rage syndrome’ is most often described in solid coloured Cocker Spaniels, especially red ones, but has also been described in other spaniels and non-spaniel breeds.
There is little good scientific research on ‘Rage syndrome’ and what there is points to this most often being a problem behaviour related to rescource guarding rather than a mysterious tendancy to attack for no reason. In their 1996 paper Podberscek and Serpell (1) did find increased aggression in solid colour cockers, but attributed most of it to ‘social dominance’ and protection of territory and possessions. They suggested there was a genetic component to the behaviour, which is not surprising as we accept that many personality traits have a genetic basis. It may have been that by paying more attention to the colours of dogs than to temperament breeders were creating pups with traits unsuitable for familiy life.
In their book ‘EMRA Intelligence’ Falconer-Taylor, Neville, and Strong (2) describe a typical case presented to the behaviourist as ‘Cocker Rage’. What they found was not a dog with an incurable genetic predisposition to unpredictable aggression, but a rather bored and frustrated dog . He was trying to communicate to his people when he was unhappy through his body language, and if they ignored that by growling, but sometimes they just didn’t hear his communication and he was pushed to snap at them. By teaching his owners how to meet his needs and listen to him, Bracken the Cocker becaome a content and safe family pet.
When someone tells me that a dog has ‘rage syndrome’ there are three key questions I ask. Could the dog be in pain? Where was the dog when the aggression occured? Was there anything of value to the dog around when the aggression occured?
Pain affects sleep, mobility, can be chronic but with acute flare-ups, it can affect mood and we appreciate in humans that it will make us short-tempered, so why not dogs? If the aggression is related to grooming and handling a through vet check to look for pain is advisable. Even aggression related to being stroked can be because the person accidentally touched a sore area.
Often the aggression is related to objects such as a bed or sofa, toys, and found items or to food and treats. It can even be connected to a particular person. This is termed ‘resource guarding’ and is understandable when you thing that without shelter, food, and protection a dog could die! Puppies need to be taught early on that humans (and other pets) are not going to steal their food. They need to be taught good cues to get off beds and furniture for a reward, and they need to be taught to give up toys or found objects on cue for a reward. Sleeping dogs should be gently roused so they aren’t startled into biting and dogs should be controlled around flash points like the front door as this area causes a complicated mix of strong emptions in so many dogs!
THE BITE FROM THE BLUE
“Yes,” you say, “but the dog I’m talking about just bit out of the blue with no warning!”
This is rarely true, at least not to begin with. Dogs are very good at communicating how they feel, but humans are not very good at listening to dogs. I say ‘listening’ but I should say ‘watching’ as most dog communication is non verbal. Early signs that a dog is not comfortable can be trying to withdrawn from contact, stiffness, a slow stiff tail wag, showing the whites of the eyes, and pining the ears back. If we ignore those the dog might try showing their teeth, standing over an object, or growling. At this point people tend to notice and might punish the dog by shouting or even hitting the dog. This works to stop the dog snarling or growling, but it doesn’t stop the dog feeling very unhappy about the situation. The dog learns not to growl, because they get punished so goes straight from subtle body language into an air snap. If you watch dogs together they are veyr good at dodging warning air snaps… people less so, and we get bitten. At this point most dogs who have been taught that biting people is not acceptable retreat and ‘look guilty’, they don’t show the frenzied attack of the ‘rage’ dog. But, if their bite is met with screaming, shouting, or hitting the dog may be so afraid that they attack as a form of self-defence. Sadly this can result in severe injuries to anyone who is in the way and could even be fatal to a child.
SO ‘RAGE SYNDROME’ ISN’T A REAL THING?
I have encountered a very small number of dogs who I believe have something pathological behind their aggression which we might call ‘rage’. In The Behavioural Biology of Dogs, Hedhammar and Hultin-Jäderlund (3) note that abnormal EEGs have been found in some dogs displaying ‘rage’ which point towards the idea that it is a form of epilepsy. I know people who live with hallucinatory forms of epilepsy which can be frightening until they get a diagnosis. I can imagine that seeing a frightening or confusing image could cause the symptoms of my ‘rage’ cases, namely dilated pupils (described by owners as trhe eyes going red as they see the retina) suggesting their ‘flight or flight’ system is triggered, and growling at thin air. People get bitten when they try to comfort the dog, or move into the field of vision and the bites are deep and multiple as when dogs are in self-defence mode.
I have not had great success with these pathological cases. Other vets and behaviourists have found anti-epileptic drugs to help some dogs, but many are euthanased as their atacks cannot be predicted or managed.
WHAT DO I DO IF MY DOGS IS GROWLING AND BITING?
- Sit down and identify when your dog growls and snaps. Often ‘random’ aggression is not so random when you really think about it. This can give you and your behaviourist clues as to why your dog isn’t happy.
- Book a vet check. Your behaviourist will want this before engaging in anything other than an emergency management plan. Make sure your vet knows why you are asking and does a thorough examination including the mouth, eyes, ears, abdomen, and musculoskeletal system. If your dog is aggressive when handled this may require pre-visit medication and a muzzle. Your vet may want to do blood tests, especially in older animals where medical conditions can make them less tolerant.
- Engage with a behaviourist who understands the emotional basis of problem behaviours such as those with COAPE qualifications and/or CAPBT members.
References
I don’t usually do references, but here are two articles you can read, and a book you can buy or find in a library that I used in writing this piece.
- https://d1wqtxts1xzle7.cloudfront.net/41637557/Environmental_influences_on_the_expressi20160127-20205-l6aq70-libre.pdf?1453905122=&response-content-disposition=inline%3B+filename%3DEnvironmental_influences_on_the_expressi.pdf&Expires=1673962846&Signature=S3zRQ5gfuyA2ZVAkEY6z4ffUqm1CUJ~BF-sD7wcVYb~mN1-M2MV2Bi2R1mqh1UOAre3R4P3fjfoh5dp1RHQoU0eSCV~~ZoHdNpuBbIMfnlwswztX-stNovVjmwA~bUgQ813RkckoqetMjI0GoMPR673tdyD7AQmfeFnjS~DoFWmOyAdM4GUFwea8Mqq-Cq8-Cf8mhmGgn6CNxClUOowicr5zF~ygHv4hVs~SEmT8mV7PLTftb5wYp8A3RKxDEjCrh08nhmfaRffnFLBHYqrYq0VgJfATMmuj5GWRMHp9ekLQ6EupkwrkIPMWfxWxvQo-eTBTdW81-y9webjbCkbRqw__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAJLOHF5GGSLRBV4ZA
- https://www.abebooks.co.uk/book-search/author/robert-falconer-taylor-peter-neville-val-strong/
- http://sherekashmir.informaticspublishing.com/671/1/9781845931872.pdf#page=253
VETS IN CRISIS
There is a shortage of vets
I’m struggling.
Every visit I go on, every training class I take or attend, every dog event I go to I am hearing the same thing. Pet owners can’t get an appointment with their vet. It sucks.
It sucks to call up to book your dog’s vaccination in only to be told they can’t book a routine appointment until December. It sucks to call up hoping to book a consultation on Friday afternoon when you finish early for something that isn’t life threatening, but is worrying you only to be told you will have to ring at 8.30 on the morning to see if there is space. It sucks to have to drive to a clinic 20 miles away in an Emergency because your local emergency clinic has shut down. It sucks to be the receptionist telling you this stuff too.
So what’s going on?
Brexit? Brexit carries some blame. Some of our European vets went home and it has become more expensive to employ a European vet now.
Covid? Another possible factor. Some vets from Europe and further afield went home when they realised that at any point they could be trapped in the UK, unable to get home to visit family. Long covid has also forced some vets out of the job, and still others struggle to work full time.
The job? Some older vets are retiring because they feel left behind by new drugs and new technology, some just deserve a break after 40 odd years in practice. Young vets aren’t finding the job fits their expectations; some find the routine work of a GP vet unfulfilling, others are so scared of complaints that they won’t push themselves to try new surgeries or to treat more complex medical cases. The job should be less stressful than it was when I graduated over 20 years ago… most small animal clinics have less or no out of hours and there is a huge network of referral centres for the complicated stuff. And yet… clients expect more and more and a blame culture has crept in which has us all on edge.
Big bad corporates? Full disclosure; I work for one part time and have worked for others in the past. Maybe in some the focus is on vets making money for shareholders, but that hasn’t been my experience. These companies buy practices because nobody else will. They buy them because they are a safe investment and they accept that they are high turnover, yet low profit businesses.
Money? Vets are well paid, right? Yes and no. If you have a 15minute consultation and get a bill for £100 how much do you think the vet gets? About £5. Vet practices are expensive to run so a surprisingly small percentage of your bill goes to the vet. It isn’t a badly paid job, but there are easier ways to make a living!
More pets? I don’t know if there are more pets now than a few years ago. Certainly we were warned that pet ownership was in decline and vets would need to find ways to keep clients! Covid might have changed that with people getting dogs and cats instead of going on holidays. A concern is that we might not be seeing all these new pets to advise their owners on good healthcare and this may be storing up a problem for the future.
What’s going to happen?
Sadly being a holistic vet doesn’t give me the power to see the future. We can’t whip up new vets fast, and applications to the vet schools are dropping. Paying veterinary staff more might keep some people in their jobs, but that would mean rising prices for pet owners at a time when their living costs (and the cost of running a veterinary practice!) are climbing fast. And if the job is too stressful no amount of money makes it worth staying.
How can I help my vet?
Plan ahead for routine appointments like vaccinations and medication reviews. Allow at least 2 working days when putting in a repeat prescription request. Keep up your pet’s preventative healthcare. And try to be kind, even when we can’t give you the appointment you hoped for. We are doing our best.
“ARE YOU PLANNING TO NEUTER YOUR DOG?”
You’ve taken your puppy to the vets for their final puppy vaccination. The vet hands over the completed vaccination card, gives your puppy a treat and the says, “the next big thing is neutering, shall we get them booked in?” Yikes!
WHY IS MY VET ASKING IF I AM GOING TO NEUTER MY PUPPY?
Vets want to get a lot of information across to new puppy owners in a short space of time. Vets want you to think about your dog becoming fertile well before they do. Vets want to avoid accidental mating, unwanted litters, roaming dogs, and avoidable diseases associated with ‘entire’ dogs.
I like to introduce the dog reproduction question by asking, “are you planning to neuter your dog?” as this allows my client to guide the rest of the conversation. If they answer, “we are hoping to breed” I can discuss health testing, mate selection, all the scary negatives, and all the lovely positives. If they answer, “yes, when should we book the surgery” I can discuss the optimal time based on their individual circumstances. If they answer, “we don’t know” again, this opens up a different discussion on the pros and cons which take their circumstances into account.
SHOULD I NEUTER MY FEMALE DOG?
Most female dogs will experience their first fertile period (called a ‘season’ or ‘heat’ between the age of 6 and 18months. Larger breeds tend to have their first season later than small breeds, and the pattern often follows that of their mother. The average time between seasons is 7 months, though some bitches will only have one season a year.
During her season your bitch will have swelling of her vulva, a bloody discharge from the vulva, and she will become attractive to male dogs. The season lasts 21-28 days for most bitches with a fertile window from day 10 in the average bitch. With rapid hormonal changes you may seem changes in your dog’s temperament. During her season your dog should not be walked where other dogs might be off lead and she should not attend training classes or competitions. If you own both male and female dogs they should be kept apart during her season. Neutered male dogs can mate and tie with a bitch and if this happens when they aren’t supervised injuries can occur to both dogs.
Around 2months after her season your bitch may show signs of pseudocyesis (false, or phantom pregnancy) because she has very similar hormone levels after her season if she is pregnant and if she is not! False pregnancy usually shows as swollen mammary glands with some milk production, but it can cause a swollen belly, false labour, and behavioural changes.
BENEFITS OF NEUTERING YOUR FEMALE DOG
No seasons. This is useful for mixed groups of dogs and working/ sporting dogs where being out of action for two months of the year is undesirable.
No pregnancy. Although it should be simple to prevent unwanted mating, and despite there being drugs available to stop a pregnancy after a mismating, removing the risk of accidental puppies is a key factor in many owners choosing to neuter their female dog. This is also the prime reason rescue centres will neuter, or rehome on a neutering contract.
Reduced risk of mammary cancers. The studies on mammary (breast) cancer risk in dogs are old, but it is probably still valid to warn that the risk of mammary tumours increases exponentially after the first season. Neutering at any stage is believed to halt the risk (but not reduce it further).
Prevention of uterine disease. Pyometra is a life threatening infection of the womb which might affect as many as 1 in 4 bitches over 8 years (based on insurance company data from a country where routine neutering is banned). Uterine cancers are less common.
Other cancers. The risk of some other cancers is reduced by neutering. The research is breed specific and should be discussed with your vet.
RISKS OF NEUTERING YOUR FEMALE DOG
Surgical risk. All surgical procedures carry a risk of incidents, including death. The bitch spay is the most dangerous operation that vets do on a daily basis. Very young, very old, overweight, and sick animals are at higher risk.
Behaviour change. Most bitches have the same temperament after spaying as they did between seasons. In rare cases a bitch can become more aggressive after neutering, but these are usually slightly aggressive before and it is thought they have been masculinised in the womb by their male siblings.
Musculoskeletal problems. Several joint problems may be more likely in neutered bitches. There isn’t a clear causal link in all cases and the link could be due to higher rates of obesity in neutered dogs, different exercise patterns, or other environmental factors. Neutering before bone growth has stopped can alter the lengths of the leg bones and this could be a factor in joint problems.
Other cancers. The risk of some cancers is increased by neutering. The research is breed specific and should be discussed with your vet.
Urinary incontinence. Urine leaking is more likely in spayed bitches and may occur earlier than in entire bitches. It can be controlled with medication.
Weight and coat changes. Neutered females are at a higher risk of weight gain and long coated breeds may develop a fluffy coat. These effects can be managed!
TYPES OF NEUTERING FOR FEMALE DOGS
Traditional Ovariohysterectomy (spay). This option is still the most common in the UK. The vet makes an incision (from a few cm’s to the full length of the belly) and removed the ovaries and uterus. This operation takes 30-60minutes and dogs go home the same day. This option is suitable for all dogs, including older dogs who may have uterine disease. Exercise should be restricted for 4-6weeks.
Ovariectomy. This is a popular option in Europe where the ovaries are removed but the uterus is left. There is no risk of pyometra if the ovaries are fully removed. This option is most suited to young botches where there is a low risk of uterine disease. Ovariectomy can be performed through a traditional incision or by laparoscopic surgery. Recovery is still 4-6 weeks.
Laparoscopic spay. Increasingly popular as initial recovery may be faster and the incisions might be smaller, but the set up and anaesthetic time can be longer. Usually the ovaries are removed, but the uterus left, so this is more suitable for younger bitches. Full recovery still takes 4-6 weeks!
Medical options. An injection can be given to delay or prevent seasons. It can only be used after the first season and can increase the risk of pyometra and future infertility.
Hysterectomy. Also called ‘ovary sparing spay’ this is one which I do not believe has a place in UK dog care. The uterus is removed but the ovaries are left so the risks and benefits are the same as for an entire bitch (other than pregnancy), except that you have added surgical risk.
Tubal ligation. Useful in humans, but again, this leaves you with all the problems of an entire female apart from pregnancy.
WHEN SHOULD I NEUTER MY FEMALE DOG?
Peadiatric spay 12-16weeks. This is not common in the UK, but is requested by some breeders prior to sale, and may be done by rescue centres. The advantage is population control pure and simple and avoids having to follow up on neutering contracts. Many vets have concerns about the effects of puppies not having a normal hormonal influence as they develop, both on behavioural and physical health. Luckily, these are usually small breed dogs with lower overall risk of joint problems and where juvenile behaviour may be preferred.
Pre-pubertal spay 6-7months. This has been the preferred option of many vets and assistance dog charities for some time. The surgery is easier as the dogs are slim , and there is no complication about timing around seasons and no loss of training time at a critical stage for working dogs. Neutering at this age keeps mammary tumour risk to a minimum. These surgeries can be booked in at the last vaccination which avoids clients forgetting to book. More recently, studies have suggested that neutering larger breeds prior to puberty and the end of bone growth could increase the chance of joint problems and some cancers. Now I would recommend spaying at this age only for toy and small breed dogs or where circumstances mean that a season would be very difficult to manage.
Post- puberty. This is my preferred option in most cases where a dog is not required for breeding or showing. For most breeds of dog neutering 3-4 months after their first or second season at 18-24 months gives the best balance of risks and benefits. It is vital that there is no sign of phantom pregnancy when the bitch is spayed.
Post- puppies/ end of career. I work with a lot of working dog clients and clients who wish to breed their dogs. For these dogs I advise neutering once the breeding or competition career is over. At 7-8 years old the bitch is still fit and well enough for routine surgery, but we can remove the risk of pyometra as she gets older. I often see uterine disease in older bitches, and owners report they are ‘happier’ and ‘act younger’ after surgery so I can only imagine some have been suffering uterine pain.
No neutering. Of course, there is the option to not neuter at all. If you chose this option make sure you check regularly for mammary lumps and keep notes on the dates and duration of your dogs seasons. If you notice heavier bleeding, bleeding between her normal seasons, or symptoms of pyometra contact your vet for advice urgently.
NEUTERING MALE DOGS
Most of this blog concerns female dogs as the options, risk, and benefits are more complicated. Most clients want to neuter their male dogs because they are worried about aggression, but male hormone related aggression is really not very common. More dogs come to me with variations of fear aggression, and neutering these dogs could make them worse. Neutering male dogs will reduce urine marking, searching for females, male aggression, and distress over in-season females. It won’t calm him down or make him easier to train!
Puberty in male dogs happens from 6 months old, and will happen later in larger dogs. There will be behaviour changes as testosterone surges and falls and your dog may show mild aggression to other dogs at times. I prefer to manage male dogs through puberty and neuter them when their behaviour is stable if required.
BENEFITS OF NEUTERING MALE DOGS
Reduces ‘male’ behaviours including roaming, marking, and male aggression.
Removes the risk of testicular cancer and reduces the risk of perianal adenoma and perineal hernia.
Prevents benign prostate enlargement, but not prostate cancer.
Prevents pregnancy. Does not always prevent mating!
RISKS OF NEUTERING MALE DOGS
Surgical risk. Although castration is less dangerous than spaying there are still anaesthetic risks and potential for complications.
Behaviour change. Nervous dogs may become more fearful after neutering.
Musculoskeletal problems. A higher risk of joint disease is found in neutered male dogs, but, as with females, there could be factors such as obesity and exercise at play as well as direct effects from neutering. As with females, neutering before growth plate closure can alter the length of bones.
Cancers. The risk of some cancers increases with neutering. These risks are breed specific and should be discussed with your vet.
Weight gain and coat changes. As with female dogs, neutered males are prone to weight gain and long coated breed can become fluffy.
TYPES OF NEUTERING FOR MALE DOGS
Castration. The testicles are removed, the scrotum is usually left unless diseased. This is the most common form of neutering for male dogs in the UK. Fertility declines very rapidly (days) but male behaviours related to testosterone will take a few weeks to decrease.
Medical castration. An implant is available which stops testosterone production. The testicles shrink, but most dogs will become fertile again when the implant wears off, and it can be removed. There is a risk of increased aggression in the first 4 weeks after treatment. A shorter acting injection can also be given but this can give different behavioural results to castration.
Vasectomy. Removing a section of the vas deferens makes a dog infertile but otherwise he will behave as an entire dog. It is an uncommon procedure in the UK for dogs.
WHEN SHOULD I NEUTER MY MALE DOG?
Neutering is less time dependant in males than in females.
Paediatric neutering 12-16weeks. This is carried out by a few breeders and rescue centres before rehoming to prevent breeding. The effects on growth and behaviour are not well studied but many vets have concerns about removing hormones at such a young age.
Pre-pubertal 6-7months. This is most suitable for toy and small breeds who have finished growing but care should be taken to avoid neutering when a dog is entering puberty and has an unstable temperament.
Post-pubertal neutering. Recommended for most dogs which need to be neutered. The appropriate age will depend on the breed and also how long the effects of puberty last. Medium breeds can be neutered from 12-18months of age, but large and giant breed dogs may benefit from later neutering. There is no upper age limit for neutering, but in mature dogs may require the removal of the scrotum to reduce the risk of post-op complications such as swelling and haematoma development.
SO, WHEN SHOULD I NEUTER MY DOG?
Pet guardians and vets would like a simple answer, but the truth is there isn’t a one size fits all recommendation. Review studies have assessed all the current data to try and suggest minimum neutering ages for common breeds that take into account all the positives and negatives, but environment and lifestyle are important factors too. The bets advice is to discuss neutering with a vet your trust in order to make a plan to suit you and your dog.
IS RAW FEEDING SAFE FOR MY PETS?
RAW FEEDING AND RESISTANT BACTERIA
A recently published study shows that dogs fed a raw diet shed more anti-microbial resistant Salmonella and E. coli than dogs fed on other diets.
Anti-microbial resistant bacteria present a real threat to human and animal health. The study made no suggestion that dogs were more likely to become ill from these bacteria if raw fed, but it does raise concerns that these bacteria could cause difficult to treat infections in people, particularly those with weakened immune systems.
HOW RAW DOG FOOD CAN INFECT PEOPLE
The risks to human health from raw feeding dogs are two-fold.
- Contamination when preparing raw dog food.
- Ingestion of bacteria from dog faeces.
REDUCING THE RISK OF INFECTION FROM RAW DOG FOOD
Raw dog food should be stored and prepared separately to human food.
Different, clearly marked utensils should be used for pets and people.
Raw food should be obtained from reputable sources.
Pet owners should consider wearing gloves when preparing raw food.
Pet bowls should be cleaned after each meal with hot water and detergent. Pet safe disinfectant may be useful for chopping boards and utensils.
IS RAW FEEDING SAFE FOR MY DOG?
Most dogs are able to eat raw food. Dogs are less likely to suffer from digestive upsets from raw food than humans due to their short digestive transit time and a robustness immune system.
The current study does not suggest that raw fed dogs are more likely to suffer from anti-microbial resistant bacteria than dogs fed other diets.
Raw diets must be carefully formulated to avoid nutritional excesses and deficiencies.
Feeding whole bones carries a risk of dental damage and obstructions of the throat and digestive tract.
Raw feeding should be avoided in dogs with a weakened immune system. This may include elderly pets and those on certain medications. If you prefer to feed a fresh diet, a home cooked one may be safer for these pets. If you are unsure if a raw diet is suitable for your dog please seek advice from a holistic vet.
IS RAW FEEDING SAFE FOR MY FAMILY?
Families with immune compromised members should avoid raw feeding their dogs.
Families with raw fed dogs should practise very good hygiene. Hands should be sanitised after picking up faeces and washed after handling dogs as microscopic particles of faeces can contaminate the coat. Allowing dogs to lick hands and faces should also be discouraged. However, these hygiene rules should be followed by all pet owning households!
Charities that take dogs into schools and hospitals may not allow raw fed dogs to take part.
Veterinary practices may employ barrier nursing for raw fed pets (and may charge additional fees for this).
FOUR SEASONS HOLISTIC VETERINARY CARE AND RAW FEEDING
We continue to support pet owners in a variety of feeding plans including raw, home cooked, and commercial wet and kibble food. We do not believe that one diet suits all pets or pet families.
This study does not change our advice significantly, but we are always happy to talk to pet owners about a suitable diet.
If you wish to read the study follow this link: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jsap.13488
THE COST OF PET CARE
PET CARE COSTS ON THE RISE!
Lots of people bought pets during lockdown, and they have brought untold benefits in terms of companionship and exercise during these very difficult times. Unfortunately the aftermath of Covid-19 along with Brexit and the invasion of Ukraine, is that there is a huge cost of living crisis looming… and it affects pet care as much as everything else.
SAVING MONEY ON PET CARE
- BUY IN BULK. If you can afford to buy larger amounts of pet food this will usually be less expensive. Choosing a cheaper brand may not be cost effective as you often need to feed more per meal so look at the per meal cost as well as the price per bag. Only buy as much as you will use before the food goes out of date.
- KEEP ON TOP OF VACCINATIONS AND PARASITE CONTROL. Cutting corners on preventative healthcare often costs more in the long run. Some owners chose cheaper flea treatments to save money when furloughed then faced an uphill struggle to control a flea infestation. Unless your pet is at high risk of adverse reactions to vaccines it will be less expensive to follow the vets programme than using titre tests to check protection.
- ASK ABOUT A PRESCRIPTION. Written prescriptions allow your to buy medications on-line from pharmacies. You will be charged for the prescription but will still be able to make savings on some parasite prevention products and medications. Vets will have individual policies on how many times you can use a prescription and how often your pet will need a meds check.
- INSURE YOUR PET. Insurance is a monthly bill you may think about dropping, but can you afford to care for your pet in an emergency without it? Ask if there are any areas of cover that can be removed to reduce the premium, or offer to pay a higher excess. Make sure you have the excess available, and remember that some specialist centres require payment at the time. A credit card is useful for this as you can pay it off as soon as the insurance pays out. Alternatives to insurance including making a pet savings account, but this may not have enough in if your young pet becomes ill.
- JOIN A PET HEALTH CLUB. Many veterinary practices have pet health clubs where a monthly fee pays for reduced cost parasite control and vaccines and unlocks other freebies and discounts.
- DON’T DIY. If you are concerned about your pet’s health, even if you are also on a tight budget, please seek veterinary advice. Although there is good information on the internet vets also see too many pets who have been damaged through the use of human medicines or delayed treatment.
Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care is a referral only service and we can only offer advice to registered and referred clients. We are a very small business and are not able to offer any credit on our services.