GETTING A NEW PUPPY
Deciding to add a new puppy to your family is big decision that can’t be taken lightly. A puppy is a 15-year commitment, and you are responsible for every aspect of their life. Puppies are great fun, but they are also hard work. By planning ahead and being prepared you can choose the perfect new best friend.
Am I ready for a puppy?
There are many benefits to adding a puppy to your family. Studies show that pet ownership can reduce stress and improve physical and mental health. However, it isn’t fair to get a puppy to try and fix problems in your life.
A puppy won’t be a running or hiking partner for 12-18months and they will test your patience at many stages in their development. Puppies can be great companions for children, and some can help children and young adults with additional needs, but not all puppies are suitable for these roles and specialist advice should be sought.
With correct preparation, and adequate physical and mental stimulation adult dogs can be eft for several hours a day while their families are at work and school. Puppies need someone at home with them all the time for their first few weeks as they settle in an learn that they can be safe ‘home alone’. Before bringing a puppy home it is important that you have arrangements in place for their support in the first weeks and beyond.
Puppies are expensive, a 2023 study suggested that a dog costs over £1500 a year to care for. Before looking for a puppy ensure that you have the budget for their purchase price or adoption fee as well as investigating the costs of daily care such as feeding, bedding, routine veterinary care, and insurance. You also need to be able to fund emergency care and have a plan about who will care for your dog if you can’t, both short and long term.
What sort of puppy would suit my family?
There are over 200 pedigree dog breeds recognised by the Kennel Club in the UK, and many more across the world. There are also lots of popular crossbreeds such as ‘Labradoodles’ and Lurchers, as well as mixed breeds. There is a breed, cross, or type of dog out there to suit almost every family!
When thinking about what sort of puppy will suit your family think about how active you are, how big your home is, how much time you will have for grooming, and whether you might want to take part on any dog sports. Surprisingly some large breeds can be very chilled out and take up less space in the home than very active smaller breeds! The Kennel Club website has descriptions of all the recognised breeds and suggestions on how much exercise and grooming they need which can be helpful in drawing up a shortlist.
Breed enthusiasts are always happy to talk to prospective puppy families about whether a breed will suit them. Discover Dogs at Crufts in March is an excellent place to meet the breeds in real life and maybe meet breeds you’d never considered! If you are considering a crossbreed, look at the profiles of the parent breeds as your puppy could show a mix of those traits.
Research what breeds were developed for. Expect spaniels to hunt, collies to herd, terriers to dig, and many small dogs to bark. Once you have chosen a breed, or at least made a shortlist, and met those breeds in person, you can start looking for a puppy!
Where should I look for a new puppy?
The best way to find a new best friend is to make contact with a breeder who has a litter planned. This allows you to meet the mother and maybe the father and discuss whether the puppies they have planned will fit in well to your home. Breeders may list planned litters on their website or on breed club websites and will want to have a good waiting list of prospective buyers before mating their dogs.
The Kennel Club website lists registered puppies for sale, as do some specialist dog websites. Be wary of puppies advertised in the local paper or on free-ad sites. The best breeders rehome their puppies by word of mouth and may never advertise at all.
Rescue and rehoming centres occasionally have puppies available which may be pure or mixed breed. Unlike puppies from a breeder, you won’t usually be able to find out anything about the father. Rescue pups can be a real surprise and may turn out very different from their mother.
When searching for a puppy expect to be asked lots of questions by the breeder or rescue to determine if you are able to offer a suitable home. You should also have your own list of questions. Important things to ask about include:
- Are the puppies raised in the home?
- Why did you breed this litter?
- Can I see the health tests for mum and dad?
- Will I be able to watch the development of the litter on a video stream or similar?
- Will my puppy be vaccinated/ flea treated/ wormed?
- What do you do to get the puppies ready for the outside world?
Remember that being on a waiting list is no guarantee of getting a puppy. If you are not successful the breeder may be able to recommend another litter, or suggest you wait until they breed again. The right puppy is worth waiting for.
How do I choose my new puppy?
You should be able to visit the litter from about 4 weeks of age when the mum is more relaxed about visitors (and the puppies are more interesting!). Some breeders will help you choose the puppy that best suits your circumstances, but generally avoid any very shy or nervous puppies unless you have a lot of puppy raising experience. Your choice may be limited if you are specific about the gender or colour of puppy you want.
Usually after spending a bit of time being climbed all over by a busy litter of puppies there will be one or two that take your eye. The breeder should be able to tell you about their personality, though bear in mind that this can change as they grow up.
What do I need before I bring my puppy home?
Good breeders and rehoming centres will provide an information pack for you to read through outlining how they have raised the litter, and what you will need to do when you get your puppy home. Key information you need includes:
- When the puppy has been vaccinated/ flea treated/ wormed and when this is due again.
- Information on the breed including health issues, grooming needs, training and exercise requirements.
- Information on diet (what they have been feeding, how much and when).
You should prepare for your new puppy by setting up a crate or bed in a pen to provide a safe and secure ‘bedroom’ for them. Buy in some of the food they have been eating and some tasty puppy treats. Consider plugging in a calming pheromone diffuser a few days before your puppy comes home to help them settle in.Calming collars and sprays can also be very useful to help your puppy during the first few stressful days
Choose some suitable toys for your puppy. Your puppy will appreciate a soft toy to snuggle up with and toys that you can fill with foodlike this chewy snake. Get a suitable sized collar for your puppy with a tag engraved with your name and address on.
Your puppy needs to be secure on their journey home so look for a travel box that you can snuggle them into. It is useful to have someone to watch the puppy on the journey home and someone else to drive to avoid dangerous distractions. Pheremone spray can be used in the travel box and try to take a toy or bit of bedding from the breeder which smells familiar.
When you collect your puppy expect to sign a contract which is designed to protect your rights, the breeder, and most importantly the puppy! You should receive your puppy’s microchip information (it is a legal requirement that puppies are chipped before sale), and registration documents, and information on their vaccinations (if given), flea, and worm treatment.
First days and nights with my new puppy!
Going to a new home is very stressful for a puppy, no matter how well the breeder and their new family have prepared. When you get your puppy home let them into a secure outdoor space to go to the toilet and then settle them into their puppy den. Offer some food and water, but don’t be surprised if they need coaxing to eat at first.
In the first few days just let your puppy settle in, bond with you, and learn where they should go to the toilet. Take them out for regular toileting breaks and play sessions but appreciate that your new arrival will need 16-18 hours sleep!
Your puppy may be unsettled at night at first as they will always have slept with their siblings. Some puppies will be happy in their pen on their own as long as you are nearby when they fall asleep. Others will wake frequently and need regular reassurance so you may want them to sleep near your bed, or you might camp out on the sofa! Your puppy will need to go to the toilet at some point in the night and you can choose to wake them up at a set time and take them out, or to wait for them to wake you up. Each day they should be able to hold things a little longer but expect accidents and setbacks.
If you want to change your puppy onto a new food, do this after 1-2 weeks when your puppy is settled in. Mix the new food in with the old one over a few days to avoid your puppy getting a tummy upset.
Book you puppy in for a vet visit in the first week for a health check, and to discuss vaccinations, flea, and worm treatments.
Our Vet Vicky LOVES to talk to potential puppy owners about making the best choice, as well as supporting them through those early days. Contact us at health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk for any puppy help!
THE COST OF PET CARE
PET CARE COSTS ON THE RISE!
Lots of people bought pets during lockdown, and they have brought untold benefits in terms of companionship and exercise during these very difficult times. Unfortunately the aftermath of Covid-19 along with Brexit and the invasion of Ukraine, is that there is a huge cost of living crisis looming… and it affects pet care as much as everything else.
SAVING MONEY ON PET CARE
- BUY IN BULK. If you can afford to buy larger amounts of pet food this will usually be less expensive. Choosing a cheaper brand may not be cost effective as you often need to feed more per meal so look at the per meal cost as well as the price per bag. Only buy as much as you will use before the food goes out of date.
- KEEP ON TOP OF VACCINATIONS AND PARASITE CONTROL. Cutting corners on preventative healthcare often costs more in the long run. Some owners chose cheaper flea treatments to save money when furloughed then faced an uphill struggle to control a flea infestation. Unless your pet is at high risk of adverse reactions to vaccines it will be less expensive to follow the vets programme than using titre tests to check protection.
- ASK ABOUT A PRESCRIPTION. Written prescriptions allow your to buy medications on-line from pharmacies. You will be charged for the prescription but will still be able to make savings on some parasite prevention products and medications. Vets will have individual policies on how many times you can use a prescription and how often your pet will need a meds check.
- INSURE YOUR PET. Insurance is a monthly bill you may think about dropping, but can you afford to care for your pet in an emergency without it? Ask if there are any areas of cover that can be removed to reduce the premium, or offer to pay a higher excess. Make sure you have the excess available, and remember that some specialist centres require payment at the time. A credit card is useful for this as you can pay it off as soon as the insurance pays out. Alternatives to insurance including making a pet savings account, but this may not have enough in if your young pet becomes ill.
- JOIN A PET HEALTH CLUB. Many veterinary practices have pet health clubs where a monthly fee pays for reduced cost parasite control and vaccines and unlocks other freebies and discounts.
- DON’T DIY. If you are concerned about your pet’s health, even if you are also on a tight budget, please seek veterinary advice. Although there is good information on the internet vets also see too many pets who have been damaged through the use of human medicines or delayed treatment.
Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care is a referral only service and we can only offer advice to registered and referred clients. We are a very small business and are not able to offer any credit on our services.
VACCINATIONS
DOG VACCINATIONS: TRUTH AND HYPE
You can’t read a dog magazine, or join a dog Facebook group without the subject of dog vaccinations coming up. Usually the theme is, ‘vets are ripping you off and harming your dog’, but is that true?
The best place to start is probably not an anti-vaccination group, or a drug company website, but the WSAVA who have a committee dedicated to reviewing the research into vaccination and developing guidelines for vets in many different countries and situations.
The WSAVA are concerned with both an individual dog’s health, but also the health of the wider canine, wildlife, and human populations. Many writers focus on their advice that many dogs have long durations of immunity to core vaccinations…but they don’t consider the extra puppy jabs the WSAVA recommend. This article considers the recommendations for pet dogs in the UK.
WHY VACCINATE DOGS?
Vaccination gives dogs protection against a range of diseases. Vaccination pre-warns the immune system so that it can respond better when challenged with the disease. This means the dog either doesn’t get sick, or has a milder form of the disease. Many vaccines also stop dogs shedding the disease and spreading it to other dogs.
CORE VACCINES
Every dog should receive vaccination against Canine Adenovirus (infectious hepatitis), Canine Parvovirus, and Canine Distemper. Of these Parvovirus remains the most common, often being seen in puppies from poor backgrounds. It causes bloody diarrhoea, vomiting, and affected puppies often die even after extensive (and expensive!) treatment. Distemper was becoming something of a distant memory in the UK, though many colleagues have seen one or two cases (often in dogs imported from Eire). However distemper is on the rise in imported dogs from eastern Europe. Early symptoms include lethargy, conjunctivitis, and joint pain. Dogs can recover with intensive nursing, but may suffer neurological damage and problems with their pads. Infectious hepatitis is not often reported in the UK, but may be underdiagnosed with liver problems being attributed to other causes. Most UK core vaccines are proven, by their manufacturers, to give at least 3 years duration of immunity.
NON-CORE VACCINES
These should be given according to risk. In the UK almost all dogs should receive Leptospirosis vaccination. This bacterial infection is found in standing water, especially water which may have been contaminated with farm animal or rat urine. The disease is contagious between dogs, and also to people (where it is called Weil’s Disease). Infection in people starts with flu-like symptoms but the disease can become serious, even fatal. In dogs the liver or kidneys are most commonly affected. Treatment with fluids and antibiotics can be successful, but dogs can shed the leptospires in their urine for some time after recovery making them an animal and human health risk. The number of confirmed canine Leptospirosis cases each year is relatively low because a proper diagnosis required two blood samples, taken a month apart, showing a rising antibody titre. Dogs are usually either dead or recovering by the time the second sample should be taken and its cost means this step is often skipped. Many more suspected cases are treated every year, and Leptospirosis is thought to be responsible for some chronic kidney and liver disease too. In recent years with increased flooding vets have reported clusters of Lepto cases.
Kennel cough vaccines can be considered for any dog which goes to kennels, groomers, training classes, shows, or to a dog walker. Although Kennel cough is not dangerous to healthy adult dogs it can kill old dogs and puppies. Breeding bitches should be vaccinated before mating. The vaccine protects against Bordatella and the Paraninfluenza virus and is given as a nasal drop.
Leptospirosis and Kennel cough vaccines only offer short lived protection and should be repeated annually if required.
Rabies is not a core vaccine in the UK as we are rabies free. However vaccination is required for travel under the Pet Passport scheme.
In the last few years additional vaccines have become available for Lymes Disease and Leishmania; these should be given only to dogs at high risk of those diseases. Herpes virus vaccination is available to reduce the risk of fading puppy syndrome. It is only given to breeding bitches and must be given at each pregnancy.
SICK DOGS
A small number of dogs can’t be vaccinated due to ill health, previous reactions, medications, or simply don’t produce a good immune response to vaccination.These dogs can be protected by ‘herd immunity’, i.e. diseases are unlikely to reach them if all the other dogs around them are protected.
WHAT ARE THE RISKS OF VACCINATING DOGS?
Nothing that we put into our, or our dog’s, bodies is safe. The immune system can react badly to any food, drug, or vaccination. The risk of reactions from vaccinations may be higehr than for other drugs as we are directly trying to stimulate an immune response. However, vaccines are generally safe with a low risk of reactions.
COMMON REACTIONS
The most common reaction is pain at the injection site. With some vaccinations over 50% of dogs will show some pain. A few of these will get a swelling at the injection site but this is short lived.
Being ‘off colour’ for 24 hours or so is not unusual either, and reflects the stimulation of the immune system.
Some dogs, especially puppies get diarrhoea after vaccination. This may reflect the immune response, but may also reflect the stress of a vet visit on top of rehoming, a change in diet and water, and any parasite treatment given. Most cases resolve with symptomatic treatment.
These common, mild reactions usually pass with little or no treatment, but always contact your vet if you are concerned.
RARE REACTIONS
Anaphylactic reactions are extremely rare, and unfortunately are very unpredicatable. Dogs may react at their first injection, or after having a vaccine on several previous occasions. Anaphylactic reactions happen very quickly after vaccination and may include fainting, fitting, vomiting, and diarrhoea. They usually happen before a dog leave the practice and treatment with oxygen, adrenaline, and maybe steroids is usually effective.
LONG TERM REACTIONS?
Some authors write extensively about diseases caused by overvaccination, but there is actually very scant evidence for this. A ‘hypothyroid epidemic’ is blamed on vaccination, and yet the rate of diagnosis in the UK is the same as that on the Falkland Islands (where no disease risk means no vaccination). Autoimmune disease certainly seem to be on the rise, but many factors may be involved other than vaccines; we know certain breeds, and lines within breeds are more likely to get autoimmine diseases, pollution may play a factor, and understimulation of the immune system due to excellent hygiene and parasite control could be factors too. A survery examinind illnesses suffered in the three months after a vet visit showed no statistical difference between dogs which had been vaccinated, and those which had been seen for other reasons.
That said, it makes sense to only give what a dog needs when he needs it.
ALTERNATIVES TO VACCINATION
Homeopathic nosodes are not a suitable alternative to vaccination. In challenge testing puppies ‘vaccinated’ homeopathically against parvovirus got ill and died.
Titre testing is the best alternative to following the manufacturers recommendations. Titre testing is now available at a reasonable price (around £30) for Distemper, Hepatitis, and Parvovirus. Dogs with good levels of circulating antibody will be protected against disease. Dogs with low or no circulating antibody may not be protected. Advanced testing shows that some dogs with no circulating antibodies actually have cellular immunity…however this level of testing is not available in practice, so revaccination is recommended for low/no titre dogs.
Leptospirosis vaccination only produces circulating antibodies for a few weeks, then the immunity is cellular. For this reason titre testing is not suitable for assessing Leptospirosis protction.
WSAVA VACCINATION RECOMMENDATIONS AND PRACTICAL ONES
For maximum protection the WSAVA recommends either titre testing puppies monthly from 6weeks until their maternal antibody protection fades, or giving core vaccines monthly until 16weeks. They recommend a further vaccination at 6-12months and then either revaccination every 3 years for core vaccines or titre testing.
In practice very few people are going to want to either pay for monthly titre testing, or vaccinate their puppies up to 5 times in 6months. In the UK where disease risk is moderate the current protocols where vaccination starts at 6- 8 weeks and finishes at 10-12 weeks, with a booster at 12months, should provide adequate protection for most dogs. A 16week vaccine or titre test could be considered for certain breeds, or during a disease outbreak. Additionally, breeders keeping puppies which may suckle from their dam for longer than most could consider delaying their vaccine start, or titre testing.
The good news is that more and more practices are offering titre testing and individualised vaccination. Our Vet Vicky Payne offers vaccine consultations and titre testing at Companion Care Vets Eastbourne and Goudhurst Vets.
KENNEL COUGH VACCINE…USEFUL OR WORTHLESS?
KENNEL COUGH A.K.A CANINE INFECTIOUS TRACHEOBRONCHITIS!
Now you see why we call it Kennel Cough!
Once more Vicky our Holistic Vet has spotted articles circulating the internet which may or may not be giving their readers the whole story…this time the headline, “Kennel Cough Vaccine is a Waste of Money!”. So…..ready for a balanced review?
WHAT IS KENNEL COUGH?
Kennel Cough is properly known as Canine Infectious Tracheobronchitis. It is a highly contagious, complex respiratory disease of dogs. In healthy adult dogs it causes an annoying, hacking cough for up to four weeks, but in young puppies and older dogs it can have more serious consequences including pneumonia and death.
It is caused by a bacteria called Bordatella bronchiseptica with one of a number of viruses including Canine Parainfluenza virus, Canine Adenovirus and Canine Herpesvirus.
It is spread by coughing and sneezing but can also remain in the environment for a short time meaning direct dog to dog contact isn’t required.
IS MY DOG AT RISK FROM KENNEL COUGH?
We recommend all puppies and breeding bitches are vaccinated. Puppies have little natural immunity and infection in puppies can cause pneumonia, fading puppy syndrome and death.
We recommend old dogs and those with chronic respiratory diseases are also vaccinated, again because consequences could be severe for these dogs.
Most adult dogs are at risk of contracting Kennel Cough but as the disease is usually more annoying than dangerous in this group some owners choose not to vaccinate. Dogs are at higher risk of contracting kennel cough if they go to kennels, groomers, training classes, shows and competitions or ares used by multiple dogs.
DOES THE VACCINE WORK, AND IS IT SAFE?
It has been suggested that the Kennel Cough vaccine doesn’t work, but that’s not really true. Most vaccines contain modified live Bordatella and Parainfluenza and create good protection against these after 3 days (Bordatella) and 3 weeks (Parainfluenza). As mentioned many other viruses can be involved too so the dog is still at risk from these. Often dogs are not taken for vaccination until an outbreak has started, so may be incubating the disease already. Usually in a Kennel Cough outbreak vaccinated dogs are either fully protected, or get a milder form of the disease to unvaccinated dogs.
The vaccine creates local immunity by being given up the nose so is amongst the safest vaccinations. It can be used for pregnant bitches and pups from 3weeks old!
Reactions are rare but some dogs, especially brachycephalic breeds such as pugs, get a little snotty after vaccination.
The diseases in the vaccine are modified so the vaccinated dog can’t spread disease from the vaccine to other dogs. Cats, unvaccinated dogs and people can suffer mild and transient symptoms but won’t get full blown kennel cough. However dogs which have already had Kennel Cough can shed it for a long time, even for three months after vaccination.
HOW IS KENNEL COUGH TREATED?
If your dog does get Kennel Cough he may need very little treatment; in mild cases use honey to soothe the throat (some human cough medicines can be used too, but consult your vet!). If your dog seems miserable, or won’t eat your vet may prescribe anti-inflammatories. Only the most serious cases need antibiotics. If visiting your vet when you think your dog has Kennel Cough leave it in the car until the vet is ready for you to reduce spread. Kennel Cough also responds really well to herbal medicines (contact us if you would like a bespoke herbal preparation for your dog!).
SO SHOULD MY DOG GET THE KENNEL COUGH VACCINE?
Our best advice is to speak to your vet so you can decide between you the best course of action for your dog.