HOW TO GET REFERRED TO FOUR SEASONS HOLISTIC VETERINARY CARE
STEP 1
Email health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk for a referral form and price list.
It helps if you can include a brief desciption of the problem, and your location.
STEP 2
Ensure health@holisticvetsussex is marked as a safe address so that the reply does not end up in spam!
STEP 3
Fill out the owner section of the referral form, then ask you primary care vet to complete the rest, and email it to health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk with relevant history.
STEP 4
When the referral form and history are recieved you will be contacted with a choice of home visit appointment times by email.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS IS A ONE-PERSON PRACTICE. I AIM TO REPLY WITHIN 48 HOURS, EXCEPT AT WEEKENDS AND HOLIDAYS. IN AN EMERGENCY CONTACT YOUR PRIMARY CARE VET.
Alternatively, download the referral form here https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:sc:EU:0e7487e4-7af5-4552-a672-4b6473ad85c3
ACUPUNCTURE FOR PETS
DOES ACUPUNCTURE WORK FOR PETS?
Acupuncture is the most common reason for Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care to see a pet. We see improvement in most of our acupuncture cases. Acupuncture is supported by review articles and case studies in veterinary literature, as well as being approved by NICE for use in some conditions on the NHS (for humans!).
HOW DOES ACUPUNCTURE WORK?
Acupuncture has several effects on the body. Insertion of the thin surgical steel needles causes an increase in local blood flow which helps to stimulate tissue healing. Acupuncture can stimulate the release of endorphins which make the pet feel good and relieve pain. Acupuncture can also alter pain perception at the spinal cord and brain level.
Traditional Acupuncture talks about meridians and the flow of chi, which can sound unscientific. However, the traditional meridians follow the path of nerves and blood vessels through the body, and chi means energy. If we then think of acupucture improving blood flow to provide oxygen to tissues and stimulating nerves which work through electrical pulses, then acupuncture doesn’t sound so magical!
WHAT CONDITIONS IN PETS CAN ACUPUNCTURE TREAT?
At Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care we mainly treat acute and chronic musculoskeletal pain cases using acupuncture. We have also had success with lick granulomas, and bowel and bladder conditions. Although acupuncture has been reported to help a wide range of conditions we find herbs and diet more effective for many diseases.
WILL MY PET ALLOW ACUPUNCTURE?
If you have a pet who will allow strangers to touch them and who can stay quiet for around 15 minutes after needle placement then we can try acupuncture. There are needle placements that are useful for anxious or fidgety animals. Although dogs are our most frequent patients, we have used acupuncture successfully in cats and rabbits.
CAN ACUPUNCTURE HELP MY PET?
If your pet has a muscle injury or osteoarthritis acupuncture is very likely to help. Results are less consistent for neurological, skin, endocrine, and metablic conditions. If we see no response after three sessions we would recommend looking at other therapies.
ARE THERE ANY RISKS TO MY PET FROM ACUPUNCTURE?
The risks from acupuncture treatment are low. Pain during needle insertion and bleeding from the needling site are uncommon unwanted effects. Pets can feel sleepy after treatment and some human patients report nausea or fainting, but I have never seen an animal patient be sick or faint.
WHAT HAPPENS DURING AN ACUPUNCTURE SESSION?
At the first session I will meet your pet, go over the history, and make a hands on assessment. If I think acupuncture will be useful the first treatment can be given in the same session. Initial appointments are around 1 hour, with subsequent appointments lasting around 30minutes, each with up to 15minutes treatment time.
HOW DO I BOOK ACUPUNCTURE FOR MY PET?
Email health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk for a referral form and current price list. Your pet must be under the care of a primary care veterinary practice who have out of hours arrangements. Once the referral form is returned we will book a mutually convenient time for a home visit and assessment.
MUZZLE TRAINING YOUR DOG
Why do dog’s wear muzzles?
Often the first thing that springs to mind when someone sees a dog wearing a muzzle is that the dog must be vicious, but there are many reasons why a dog might be wearing a muzzle. A dog wearing a muzzle might be:
- Prone to eating things they shouldn’t or on a strict diet for medical reasons.
- More likely to bite due to fear or pain.
- Required to wear a muzzle by law, for example if they are exempt banned breed or for any breed travelling on public transport in some countries.
- To prevent a dog catching wildlife.
- For a visit to the vet or groomers.
When muzzles are used on fearful dogs it is important to remember that they won’t make the dog feel better or safer. They should be used as a ‘safety net’ during training to help the dog feel more relaxed. If your dog snaps out of fear in any situation consult your vet and a behaviourist about how you can help them feel better.
It is beneficial for all dogs to be trained to wear a muzzle just in case one is needed. If a dog has previously worn a muzzle and had a good experience this reduces their stress when one is needed compared to wrestling a muzzle onto a scared dog in an emergency. Muzzle training can be a fun game if approached in the right way (see later).
What is the right style of muzzle for my dog?
There are two main sorts of muzzle available: basket muzzles and fabric muzzles.
Fabric muzzles fit the nose very snuggly and must only be worn under direct supervision for a short period of time. They are most commonly used for short veterinary or grooming tasks and some dogs seem to calm down when they are applied. Dogs can take small treats through a fabric muzzle, and they can also give you a nasty nip!
Basket muzzles are more suitable for wearing for longer periods and give more protection against bites. There are some designs only suited for short term wear (such as at the vets) as they give limited room for panting but do allow the dog to take treats and to drink. Muzzles designed to allow full panting room used to only be available for racing dogs like whippets and greyhounds but designs for all face shapes including bull breeds are now becoming more common.
If you need your dog to be able to wear a muzzle for longer periods including exercise and in the car ensure the design allows them to pant, drink, take treats, and vomit. Make sure the muzzle doesn’t restrict breathing or vision and is comfortable for your dog to wear. Some brachycephalic breeds like Pugs and French Bulldogs can be particularly tricky to find a comfortable and safe muzzle for so consult your vet for advice.
When measuring your dog for a muzzle, measure from the tip of their nose to just below their eyes and the widest part of the nose. Allow at least 1cm between the end of your dog’s nose and the muzzle. Make sure the straps will prevent the muzzle coming off, but don’t dig into your dog. You should be able to slide a finger comfortably under the straps.
How do I Train my dog to wear a muzzle?
It is easiest to muzzle train a dog if they have not previously had bad experiences. If your dog is already shy about being touched on the face, has any pain issues with their mouth, face or ears, or if they are aggressive around treats you need to speak to your vet and a behaviourist before starting muzzle training.
There are many different ways to muzzle train your dog. If your dog hasn’t had a bad experience you might want to start with an actual muzzle straight away. If your dog has previously had poor experiences with muzzle start with a yogurt pot with some holes in the bottom.
Assemble everything you will need in a quiet, familiar, distraction free space. Plan for short training sessions several times a week and always end with success. Repeat each stage several times until you are sure your dog is ready to move on.
You will need: a muzzle or plastic pot with holes, tasty treats, a clicker (optional).
- Bring out the pot or muzzle, immediately give your dog a treat (after using the clicker or a marker word like ‘good’). Repeat until your dog is anticipating a treat when the muzzle appears.
- Place a treat in the pot/muzzle. If your dog moves towards the muzzle click/mark and give a treat. Some dogs will stick their nose straight in, others may get closer in stages.
- Once your dog is putting their nose into the muzzle you can hold the treat outside and pop it in once the nose is in.
- When your dog is confidently sticking their nose in the muzzle for a few seconds add a word which you can use as a cure for them, ‘muzzle’ ‘party hat’ ‘nose cone’… it doesn’t matter what word you choose but be consistent.
Once your dog is happy to have their nose in the pot/ muzzle for a reasonable period of time before a treat, the next step is to fasten the strap. Some dogs don’t like this so you may need to work on it separately.
- Make the neck strap into a big loop and hold it so the dog can see. Click/mark and give a treat.
- Hold a treat near the loop, click and treat.
- Hold the treat on the other side so the dogs puts their nose through… click and treat.
- Move the treat so the dog puts their neck through.
- Once your dog is happy to put their neck through lift up the muzzle and ask them to stick their nose in for a reward.
- Once the nose is in, gradually tighten the neck loop.
- Slowly build up the length of time your dog wears the muzzle. They should wear it for things they enjoy such as sofa snuggles, grooming, trick training, and then out on walks.
During training it is important not to overfeed! You can use some of your dog’s normal food, or choose small, tasty treats cut into small pieces.
Dogs might feel anxious the first time they meet people and dogs whilst wearing their muzzle as they can’t communicate with their facial expressions as effectively. If possible, do some training sessions with other friendly dogs around to build their confidence. At all times during training monitor your dog for signs of stress.
What do I do if my dog tries to remove the muzzle?
If your dog starts pawing at the muzzle during training, it is likely that you have gone too fast and skipped a few stages. Go back to the last point your dog seemed comfortable and build up more slowly.
If your dog occasionally tried to remove the muzzle on walks, instead of telling them off try asking for a behaviour they can do such as sit or give paw to distract them, and so you can pay out a tasty reward.
If your dog has been good in their muzzle but then starts trying to get it off check carefully for damage to the muzzle or skin irritation that could be making it uncomfortable to wear.
Using a muzzle in an emergency
Sometimes during muzzle training it will be necessary for your dog to wear a muzzle even though they are not fully comfortable and this risks setting back your training. Situations where this might be necessary include a vet, behaviourist, or groomer visit. In these cases, try to use a different type of muzzle to the one you are training with, and go back several stages on your next training session.
WORMING PUPPIES AND KITTENS
The Importance of Worming Puppies and Kittens
Pregnant cats and dogs can pass roundworms (Toxacara) to their offspring through the placenta before the puppies or kittens are even born. Further infection can then take place through the milk, grooming, and from the mother’s coat. Pregnancy hormones stimulate roundworms which have been encysted in body tissues to migrate.
Larvae present in the puppy or kitten at birth will develop into adult worms by the time the puppy or kitten is two weeks old. Roundworms can cause abdominal pain, diarrhoea, stunted growth, and a pot-bellied appearance. Puppies and kittens may not pass worms in the faeces, even with a heavy infestation.
A severe roundworm infection can be debilitating, and sometimes fatal, for a young animal. Added to the risk for the pet, infected puppies and kittens can shed eggs into the environment which can infect children. Toxacara can cause serious health conditions in children including blindness and liver damage.
Common types of Worms
Roundworms
There are two species of roundworm affecting cats and dogs: Toxacara canis and Toxascarais leonin. They grow into long spaghetti-like worms which absorb nutrients from the puppy or kitten. Roundworms can hide in body tissues (encyst) which can make them difficult to completely eradicate.
Tapeworms
Tapeworms live in the small intestine and absorb nutrients from food as it is digested. They have a row of sharp teeth which grip onto the gut wall and can grow to over 15cm in length! Tapeworms reproduce by shedding segments which pass out in the faeces. These segments look like rice grains and are sometimes seen in a pets’ fur.
Hookworms
These are short blood sucking worms which can be fatal to puppies and kittens. They are less common in the UK than in Europe.
Whipworms
Again, a less common worm in the UK. These live in the large intestine and are less likely to cause health problems.
Lungworm
Contracted from the infected slime of slugs and snails, lungworm is a problem for dogs in the UK. It can cause persistent coughing but can also cause fatal bleeding disorders.
Signs your Puppy or Kitten has Worms.
Assume that your new puppy or kitten comes with worms! There may be no signs of worm infection if your puppy or kitten has a light infection.
Heavier infections may cause diarrhoea, poor weight gain, a poor coat, lethargy, and a pot-bellied appearance. Advanced cases can cause constipation by blocking the gut. In some cases, puppies and kittens will vomit roundworms or pass them in the faeces.
How to Prevent Worms in Puppies and Kittens
When rehoming a puppy or kitten, you should ask to see records of the worming that the breeder or rescue organisation has carried out. It is usual for at least two courses of worming medication to be given before a puppy or kitten is 8 weeks old.
When you take your puppy or kitten for their first health check and vaccination, your vet will be able to advise on an ongoing worming schedule. Most will advise monthly roundworm treatment and tapeworm treatment every 3 months.
If lungworm is a risk for dogs in your area you will need a prescription lungworm treatment from your vet. Theses should be given once a month.
Puppies and kittens usually come with a few fleas too, which are not only irritating but can also spread tapeworm. Fleas can be infected with tapeworm eggs, which the puppy or kitten then ingests during grooming. Clever, but gross!
Keep your new puppy or kitten flea free with some of the following products:
Clean up after your Pet
Even if your pet is regularly wormed, it remains the responsible thing to do to clean up after them. Puppy owners should always take poop bags with them and dispose of dog waste in a bin. Kitten owners should encourage their pets to use indoor or outdoor litter trays to reduce the risk of contaminating garden soil, especially with the popularity of home vegetable growing!
Interestingly fresh pet faeces have a very low risk of causing infection in humans, with the eggs of some species only becoming infective after as long as a month outside the body. Even so, washing your hands (or using a hand sanitizer gel if out and about) is highly recommended.
Correct disposal of pet waste is also vital to reduce environmental contamination with chemicals that can kill beneficial invertebrates as well as pet parasites. Bag and bin!
Eco Alternatives?
The best alternative to routine worming of puppies and kittens is worm egg counting. A laboratory can test a faecal sample allowing you to target your use of worming products. As puppies and kitten have lower immunity to parasites, testing should be done monthly until they are six months old.
Herbal products are available which can reduce the risk of your new pet getting a parasite burden, but they are not able to clear a heavy infection. Adding diatomaceous earth to your puppy or kitten’s diet is unlikely to help prevent or treat intestinal parasites.
Our vet loves talking to new puppy and kitten owners about a holistic approach to their pet’s wellness! Email now to health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk to book a visit.
GERROFF, THAT’S MINE! THE RESOURCE GUARDING DOG
WHAT IS RESOURCE GUARDING?
Resource guarding is term used for situations where a dog shows protective or aggressive behaviour over something. Dogs who growl when people approach their food bowl, or when a dog or person tries to take a toy from them are common examples. Less obviously a dog can show resource guarding to people, their bed, the sofa or any other things that they perceive as important to them.
WHY DO DOGS SHOW RESOURCE GUARDING?
Guarding important resources such as food is a natural behaviour for dogs. Some breeds have stronger tendencies to guard food and objects. Dogs developed for guarding are more likely to guard their people and homes, gundog breeds can be possessive over food and toys.
How puppies are raised by their breeder can influence how likely a dog is to guard food. Where puppies are fed from one bowl, especially if there is insufficient food, they need to fight for their share and are more likely to show food guarding as adults. Feeding from multiple bowls may reduce the risk of food guarding.
Adult dogs that have had to share bowls, or who have suffered periods of not being fed enough may also develop food guarding issues. Any dog may guard high value treats or food such as raw bones, or found ‘foods’ like roadkill and discarded human food.
Dogs can develop guarding whenever resources are limited. If there are multiple dogs and only a few toys the toys become valuable, the same can be true of the best bed or spot on the sofa! Where one person is the main carer they are also an important resource and a dog might worry that another dog or person is going to reduce their access to their carer.
WHAT DOES RESOURCE GUARDING IN DOGS LOOK LIKE?
Dogs might show very obvious signs of guarding food, an object, a place, or a person such as growling and barking when another animal or person approaches. However, growling and barking are the final warnings before a dog snaps and bites. More subtle signs of guarding can include yawning and lip licking, standing over an object, freezing, and stashing objects. Eating very quickly or swallowing toys or found objects can also be signs of resource guarding.
HOW CAN I PREVENT RESOURCE GUARDING IN DOGS?
Breeders can reduce the risk of resource guarding in their puppies by feeding from multiple bowls, and providing enough toys and safe sleeping spaces that puppies don’t need to fight over them. Puppies will play fight over toys and enjoy tug-of-war games, but there should always be options for them to have their own things.
When bringing a puppy into your home it is important to teach them that you aren’t a threat to the resources they need for survival. You should provide your puppy with a safe, comfy bed and never grab them from their bed. If you need to get your puppy out of their safe place lure them out for a food treat or a toy.
Spending time with your puppy or new dog as they eat is a good way to avoid food guarding. Hand feeding some of the meal, or adding extra to the bowl as your dog eats will mean that they see people near the bowl as a good thing! Never take food from a puppy or dog that is eating, if you need to move them away lure them with a high value treat or their favourite toy. Holding a chew treat to make it easier for your pet to eat is a great way to build a bond and avoid food guarding.
Teach your dog to swap toys and found objects with you. Gundog breeds especially need an outlet for their retrieving behaviours and will pick up less objects at home if you play hunting and fetching games on their walks. If your dog has something dangerous or expensive in their mouth call them excitedly and offer a delicious food treat or a favourite toy as a swap.
If your dog picks up things you would rather not touch, like roadkill or cat poop, you can teach a ‘drop’ cue. Start at home with a toy and show your dog another toy or a food treat, as they drop the one in their mouth add the cue ‘drop’ and give them the toy or treat your have. A solid ‘leave’ cue is also useful in preventing or treating resource guarding.
HOW TO MANAGE A DOG THAT SHOWS RESOURCE GUARDING
It is important never to punish a dog that shows resource guarding. Most dogs with resource guarding are already fearful that they will lose the thing they want so chasing, shouting, or grabbing the object will make them feel even more concerned. Never ignore the body language and growls of a dog that is resource guarding as the next step on the ladder of aggressive behaviour is a bite.
Confrontations with dogs that guard food or objects must be avoided. During training dogs should be allowed to enjoy their food, chews, or toys in peace except during training sessions. It is usually best for one person to work on guarding with other members of the household joining training later on. A crate, puppy pen, or stair gate may be needed to prevent dogs accessing things they shouldn’t have such as shoes and children’s toys and to reduce the risk of people, especially children, disturbing the dog.
Dogs with resource guarding issues should have a thorough vet check before training begins. Conditions which cause pain, excess hunger or thirst, or hormonal disturbances can contribute to protective behaviours. It is often preferable to have a qualified behaviourist to assess dogs with guarding behaviours, develop a treatment plan, and demonstrate exercises.
For food guarding: offer the dog low value food in their bowl. Approach from the side and without making eye contact but stop before the dog stops eating or starts eating faster. Throw higher value food or treats into the bowl. Over time your dog will associate people approaching their bowl with getting better food.
For toy guarding: teach your dog to swap toys for other toys, a tuggy game, or food. Have two of their favourite toy!
For guarding beds and sofas: teach your dog ‘on’ and ‘off’ cues. When necessary use a high value treat or toy to lure them off their resting place. Offer alternative resting places.
MY DOG WON’T LET OTHER PEOPLE CLOSE TO ME, WHAT CAN I DO?
Guarding their person can be a more difficult problem behaviour to deal with. Training your dog to move away from you to a mat or bed for a food reward is one way to get space around you. Remote treat dispensers can help you give a food reward while at a distance.
If your dog doesn’t like other members of your household coming close, having those people take on some of the caring duties can help make you a slightly less important resource.
RESOURCE GUARDING IN MULTI-DOG HOMES
Reduce the risk of guarding in multi-dog homes by providing multiples of every important resource. Dogs should have access to water, sleeping places, and toys without having to compete. If one or more dogs shows aggressive behaviour around food, chew treats, or specific toys it may be necessary to use crates, pens, or baby gates to separate the dogs.
Ensuring all dogs get sufficient quality time with their person and have their mental and physical needs met can avoid ‘jealousy’ between them.
CAN DIET OR MEDICATION HELP WITH RESOURCE GUARDING?
Dogs that struggle to learn new skills or that show other anxious behaviours may benefit from dietary manipulation to support healthy brain chemistry. Some dogs may benefit from calming supplements, or even vet prescribed medications alongside a behaviour training plan. Four Seasons Vet Vicky Payne can advise on diet, supplements, and medications.
We LOVE working with resource guarding cases! For an at home behaviour assessment and treatment plan please email health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk
PAIN AND PROBLEM BEHAVIOUR
How are Pain and Behaviour Problems Related?
Pain may be part of the reason for problem behaviours in up to 80%of cases. If an underlying painful condition is not identified and treated it is unlikely that the problem behaviour will be completely resolved. In some cases the problem behaviour disappears entirely when pain is addressed and no behavioural therapy is required!
Pain can affect behaviour in a number of ways. Behaviour may change because a dog is trying to avoid pain, or because pain is making them less tolerant of other things. Pain can reduce the amount of rest and quality sleep a dog gets and lack of rest is a significant factor in problem behaviours.
What Problem Behaviours May Be Due to Pain?
Almost any problem behaviour could be caused or made worse by pain, but common examples would include:
Refusing to go on walks or get into the car
Aggressive behaviour when stroked, groomed, or handled
Aggressive behaviour toward people, dogs, and other animals
Separation related distress
Self-mutilation (chewing or licking bodyparts until they are sore)
Cognitive decline symptoms in older dogs
Loss of house training
Sound sensitivity and noise phobias
Pain should be considered in all problem behaviours, especially when they start suddenly or become worse in a short space of time with no other obvious trigger.
How do I tell if my Dog is in Pain?
Before starting training or a behaviour modification plan for your dog it is advisable to ask your vet to do a thorough assessment for pain. This can be a challenge if your dog is scared in the vets or if their problem behaviour relates to being handled. Key areas your vet should look at include:
The mouth and teeth
The ears
The musculoskeletal system
The digestive system
You can help your vet identify possible sources of pain by watching your dog at home. Do they eat gingerly or chew on one side? Do they shake their head or scratch at their ears? Are they stiff when they get up or do they find getting on the sofa difficult? Are their poops normal and passed regularly?
Sometimes your vet may suspect pain but be unable to find what part hurts. In these cases the vet may suggest a trial of painkiller for a couple of weeks to see if the problem behaviour improves.
How can I help my dog with their Pain?
Your vet will prescribe appropriate medication for the painful condition that your dog has. In some cases, like an ear infection, one course of medication may be enough. If there is dental pain your dog may need extractions under anaesthetic. Occasionaly there may be a surgical solution to a painful problem.
Arthritis could require long term medication, but physiotherapy, hydrotherapy, acupuncture, non-slip flooring, supportive beds, and supplements can also be helpful.
Your behaviourist or trainer should be made aware of any medical conditions your dog has and medications that they are taking. Some medications can affect the way a dog learns, and it is important that any interventions (such as increasing exercise, playing with toys, or handling exercises) are designed to minimise the risk of causing further pain.
How Can Four Season Holistic Veterinary Care Help?
Our vet Vicky can often pick up on pain at a home visit that may be missed at the vets. She is able to help with acupuncture, herbal medicines, and exercise advice. As a veterinary behaviourist she can also work with complex cases where pain and problem behaviour are both present.
PROGESTERONE FOR PUPPY PLANNING
COMING INTO ‘SEASON’
The reproductive biology of female dogs is quite different to female humans. Dogs are only sexually receptive once or twice a year. The most common time between ‘seasons’ is 7 months, but some individuals have shorter or longer intervals. Dogs can have their first season from 6-18 months of age.
Dogs are not ready to mate when their season starts, which allows owners to plan mating, or plan on how to prevent mating! When your dog is in season you must avoid exercising her where there may be male dogs off lead and she should never be left unsupervised. If your dog is mated accidentally, call your vet for advice.
HOW DO I KNOW MY DOG IS IN SEASON?
Your dog may show changes in behaviour before her season. She may become clingy or aloof, more friendly with other dogs or less tolerant of them. Other dogs might start to show more interest in her.
The first day of her season is when you first see a pink or red discharge at the vulva. The vulva then swells significantly. Some bitches show abdominal discomfort in the first week of their season.
After 7-10 days the discharge becomes more straw coloured and the vulva less swollen. This is when your dog is approaching her fertile period. Mating at this point usually results in pregnancy because healthy dog sperm can survive up to 7 days in the female.
After 3-4 weeks your dogs will no longer be of interest to males and her vulva will reduce in size. If it is her first season her vulva will not return to its prepubertal size.
KNOWING WHEN TO MATE
Dates and Behaviour
Most dogs will conceive if mated between day 10 and 14 from the first day of their season. If she allows the dog to mate she is probably in her fertile window. Experienced stud dogs will also show less interest in a female dog if she is not around ovulation.
However, using these methods gives little indication of when puppies will be born. Pregnancy, if counted from mating, can appear to be as short as 58 days or as long as 69 days.
Ovulation Prediction
A test that can predict when a dog ovulates gives the breeder more information on when to mate the dog, but also when to expect puppies. The eggs are not ready to be fertilised until 2 days after ovulation and stay ready for up to 48hours. Dogs are pregnant for 63 days from ovulation (plus or minus one day).
Ovulation tests offered to breeders include blood progesterone testing, vaginal cytology, ovulation pads, and ferning.
Vaginal cytology can be accurate if it is performed by an experience person and repeated every 2 days from the start of the season until after mating.
Progesterone testing requires a blood sample to be taken by a vet (fertility clinics can run tests but only vets can take blood by law). The most accurate results are gained by testeing every 2 days from day 8 or 9 of the season until ovulation occurs. Single tests can be difficult to interpret in some cases.
Saliva ferning gives an indication of oestrogen levels but is not accurate enough on its own.
Other tests such as ovulation pads, vaginal pH, and electric conductivity are not scientifically validated and should be avoided.
Puppy Prediction
Puppies should arrive 62-64 days after ovulation, regardless of mating date. Large litters tend to arrive early, and small litters slightly later. If puppies have not arrive by day 65 from ovulation seek veterinary advice.
If the date of ovulation is unknown and a breeder is worried the puppies are late, or where a caesarian may be needed because there is only one big puppy, progesterone tests can be used to predict when it is safe to remove the puppies.
Progesterone drops sharply just before birth so progesterone is low the puppies need to be delivered. If it is still high the puppies can stay inside a bit longer. In very rare cases the drop doesn’t happen which is why knowing the true due date is so important.
PUPPY PLANNING
Chosing to breed a litter of puppies should not be done lightly. Breeding and raising puppies correctly is expensive, time consuming, and it can be both a joyful time and a time of heartbreak. Speak to your vet and to experienced mentors before deciding to breed your dog.
HIPS SCORES FOR BREEDING DOGS
HIP IN THE UK – ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT?
Breeders of many dog breeds choose to use the Kennel Club/ British Veterinary Association Hip and Elbow schemes to try and select the parents least likely to produce puppies with hip or elbow dysplasia. But is the scheme working? Some think not.
SLOW PROGRESS IN HIP SCORES
Research shows that years of hip scoring has increased the percentage of dogs with the lowest scores, but it hasn’t made much impact on the numbers with mild hip dysplasia or worse. So is there any point? The problem with these studies is that they are based on the results from images submitted to the scheme and these are not representative of the state of any breed as a whole. Firstly only a small percentage of dogs are selected as potential breeding dogs, in some breeds not all potential breeding dogs are tested, only sound dogs over a year are usually tested, and (despite the scheme rules) some vets don’t send in images of hips they think will get a poor score. The published results only reflect the better end of the spectrum and give very little data on the worst hips, or dogs which are diagnosed before 12months of age. As a GP vet I believe I see far fewer dogs that are lame with hip dysplasia at 6-12months, and less dogs needing treatment for hip arthritis before they reach 8-10 years old than I did as a young vet so I think hip scoring is doing a lot of good… but you can’t publish a paper without data.
THE BABY AND THE BATHWATER?
Researchers only consider hips with a total score under 5 as ‘normal’. Most dogs with scores of 6-10 will have no changes in their hips over time, and even dogs scoring up to 20 will probably suffer only manageable arthritic pain in old age. Whilst it may be the Holy Grail to produce only puppies with normal hips, it must always be remebered that a dog is more than their health tests. If we select too strongly for excellent hip scores we might lose temperament, type, working ability, and we will definitley shrink the gene pool which can lead to other genetic probems cropping up.
IMPROVING HIP SCORES IN THE UK
Hip scores could be reduced in UK dogs by adopting one or more of the following methods;
Score later
Taking images for hip scoring at 12months, as we do in the UK, could miss up to 30% of dogs which will go on to develop hip dysplasia in later life. Waiting until dogs are over 2 years old (as for the American OFFA scheme) reduces this to under 10%.
Score differently
The standard ventro-dorsal extended leg view used by most hip schemes makes the joint look tighter than it is in the standing dog. As joint laxity is the most heritable and most significant driver of hip dysplasia using a test that measure joint laxity allows us to predict whether a dog will get hip dysplasia more accurately. The PennHIP test can be done in young dogs (from 16 weeks) so is a useful screening test for breeders choosing which dogs to keep. It is less used than the BVA scheme as vets need extra training and certification, and positioning for the 3 images is more complicated and time consuming (in the USA dogs are often held for the films, in the UK holding dogs for non-emergency x-rays is forbidden).
Use genetic tests
So far we only have one genetic test for hip dysplasia. The Dysgen test looks at several markers which may reflect a higher predisposition to hip dysplasia. As yet the test is only validated for Labrador Retrievers, and there is little guidance on how it can be used to make breeding decisions.
Use estimate breeding values and vertical pedigrees
By looking at the scores of a dog’s relatives and offspring it is possible to get an indea whether they will produce puppies with scores similar to, better, or worse than their own. The Kennel Club publishes EBVs for dogs in some of the more common breeds but where a dog has few tested relatives the accuracy reduces.
Move the goalposts
At the moment the recommendation is to breed from dogs with a score equal to or less than the 5 year median (middle score) for the breed. Though logical to breed from average or better than average dogs, this does have challenges and limitations. As previously mentioned, the median score is calculated only from submitted images, so if there are lots of young lame dogs that aren’t scored the median could be artificially low. Alternatively, if a breed generally has poor hips the average may still be unacceptably high.
Research suggests that if we chose only to breed from the lowest 25 or 30% of dogs hip scores would come down more quickly. However, this could lead to a reduction in overall genetic diversity and selection for other issues. Alternatively we could look at the scores regardless of breed and suggest only breeding from ‘excellent’, ‘good’, and maybe ‘fair’ scores, putting ‘fair’ to ‘excellent’ (this grading is more similar to that used in Europe and America than our numbers based system). But again, if we focus in too much on hips, we risk creating new problems. And in some breeds there would be almost no dogs left to breed!
HOW TO USE HIP SCORES IN BREEDING PROGRAMMES
The aim of a breeding programme won’t be the same for every breeder. For working animals, such as Guide Dogs or Police Dogs, it may be important to produce as many dogs as possible with ‘normal’ hips to ensure a long working life. Here it may make sense to use PennHIP to screen potential breeding dogs at an early stage, and if using the BVA scheme to choose animals with a score of 10 or less. If a dog has other good characteristics but a slighty higher score (up to 14) they could be paired with a lower scoring mate, especially if they have a good EBV.
For pet dogs a good temperament is the most important thing, and buyers may be more accepting of a dog needing medical support for arthritis as they hit double figures. Using breeding dogs with scores under 15 and excellent temperaments is probably sufficient, and there shouldn’t be a temptation to use a very low scoring dog if they aren’t of sound temperament!
In a breed with a high average hip score or low numbers the aim might be to reduce the score of puppies more gradually. This may mean pairing above average scores with below average scores.
Some vets take a huge interest in breeding better dogs and are happy to discuss the results of your dog’s tests, or the result of teh parents of a puppy you are considering. Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care can’t take radiographs for the BVA scheme, though our vet also works at Companion Care Vets in Eastbourne (01323 649325) who can. We can offer telephone consultations to discuss results.
“ARE YOU PLANNING TO NEUTER YOUR DOG?”
You’ve taken your puppy to the vets for their final puppy vaccination. The vet hands over the completed vaccination card, gives your puppy a treat and the says, “the next big thing is neutering, shall we get them booked in?” Yikes!
WHY IS MY VET ASKING IF I AM GOING TO NEUTER MY PUPPY?
Vets want to get a lot of information across to new puppy owners in a short space of time. Vets want you to think about your dog becoming fertile well before they do. Vets want to avoid accidental mating, unwanted litters, roaming dogs, and avoidable diseases associated with ‘entire’ dogs.
I like to introduce the dog reproduction question by asking, “are you planning to neuter your dog?” as this allows my client to guide the rest of the conversation. If they answer, “we are hoping to breed” I can discuss health testing, mate selection, all the scary negatives, and all the lovely positives. If they answer, “yes, when should we book the surgery” I can discuss the optimal time based on their individual circumstances. If they answer, “we don’t know” again, this opens up a different discussion on the pros and cons which take their circumstances into account.
SHOULD I NEUTER MY FEMALE DOG?
Most female dogs will experience their first fertile period (called a ‘season’ or ‘heat’ between the age of 6 and 18months. Larger breeds tend to have their first season later than small breeds, and the pattern often follows that of their mother. The average time between seasons is 7 months, though some bitches will only have one season a year.
During her season your bitch will have swelling of her vulva, a bloody discharge from the vulva, and she will become attractive to male dogs. The season lasts 21-28 days for most bitches with a fertile window from day 10 in the average bitch. With rapid hormonal changes you may seem changes in your dog’s temperament. During her season your dog should not be walked where other dogs might be off lead and she should not attend training classes or competitions. If you own both male and female dogs they should be kept apart during her season. Neutered male dogs can mate and tie with a bitch and if this happens when they aren’t supervised injuries can occur to both dogs.
Around 2months after her season your bitch may show signs of pseudocyesis (false, or phantom pregnancy) because she has very similar hormone levels after her season if she is pregnant and if she is not! False pregnancy usually shows as swollen mammary glands with some milk production, but it can cause a swollen belly, false labour, and behavioural changes.
BENEFITS OF NEUTERING YOUR FEMALE DOG
No seasons. This is useful for mixed groups of dogs and working/ sporting dogs where being out of action for two months of the year is undesirable.
No pregnancy. Although it should be simple to prevent unwanted mating, and despite there being drugs available to stop a pregnancy after a mismating, removing the risk of accidental puppies is a key factor in many owners choosing to neuter their female dog. This is also the prime reason rescue centres will neuter, or rehome on a neutering contract.
Reduced risk of mammary cancers. The studies on mammary (breast) cancer risk in dogs are old, but it is probably still valid to warn that the risk of mammary tumours increases exponentially after the first season. Neutering at any stage is believed to halt the risk (but not reduce it further).
Prevention of uterine disease. Pyometra is a life threatening infection of the womb which might affect as many as 1 in 4 bitches over 8 years (based on insurance company data from a country where routine neutering is banned). Uterine cancers are less common.
Other cancers. The risk of some other cancers is reduced by neutering. The research is breed specific and should be discussed with your vet.
RISKS OF NEUTERING YOUR FEMALE DOG
Surgical risk. All surgical procedures carry a risk of incidents, including death. The bitch spay is the most dangerous operation that vets do on a daily basis. Very young, very old, overweight, and sick animals are at higher risk.
Behaviour change. Most bitches have the same temperament after spaying as they did between seasons. In rare cases a bitch can become more aggressive after neutering, but these are usually slightly aggressive before and it is thought they have been masculinised in the womb by their male siblings.
Musculoskeletal problems. Several joint problems may be more likely in neutered bitches. There isn’t a clear causal link in all cases and the link could be due to higher rates of obesity in neutered dogs, different exercise patterns, or other environmental factors. Neutering before bone growth has stopped can alter the lengths of the leg bones and this could be a factor in joint problems.
Other cancers. The risk of some cancers is increased by neutering. The research is breed specific and should be discussed with your vet.
Urinary incontinence. Urine leaking is more likely in spayed bitches and may occur earlier than in entire bitches. It can be controlled with medication.
Weight and coat changes. Neutered females are at a higher risk of weight gain and long coated breeds may develop a fluffy coat. These effects can be managed!
TYPES OF NEUTERING FOR FEMALE DOGS
Traditional Ovariohysterectomy (spay). This option is still the most common in the UK. The vet makes an incision (from a few cm’s to the full length of the belly) and removed the ovaries and uterus. This operation takes 30-60minutes and dogs go home the same day. This option is suitable for all dogs, including older dogs who may have uterine disease. Exercise should be restricted for 4-6weeks.
Ovariectomy. This is a popular option in Europe where the ovaries are removed but the uterus is left. There is no risk of pyometra if the ovaries are fully removed. This option is most suited to young botches where there is a low risk of uterine disease. Ovariectomy can be performed through a traditional incision or by laparoscopic surgery. Recovery is still 4-6 weeks.
Laparoscopic spay. Increasingly popular as initial recovery may be faster and the incisions might be smaller, but the set up and anaesthetic time can be longer. Usually the ovaries are removed, but the uterus left, so this is more suitable for younger bitches. Full recovery still takes 4-6 weeks!
Medical options. An injection can be given to delay or prevent seasons. It can only be used after the first season and can increase the risk of pyometra and future infertility.
Hysterectomy. Also called ‘ovary sparing spay’ this is one which I do not believe has a place in UK dog care. The uterus is removed but the ovaries are left so the risks and benefits are the same as for an entire bitch (other than pregnancy), except that you have added surgical risk.
Tubal ligation. Useful in humans, but again, this leaves you with all the problems of an entire female apart from pregnancy.
WHEN SHOULD I NEUTER MY FEMALE DOG?
Peadiatric spay 12-16weeks. This is not common in the UK, but is requested by some breeders prior to sale, and may be done by rescue centres. The advantage is population control pure and simple and avoids having to follow up on neutering contracts. Many vets have concerns about the effects of puppies not having a normal hormonal influence as they develop, both on behavioural and physical health. Luckily, these are usually small breed dogs with lower overall risk of joint problems and where juvenile behaviour may be preferred.
Pre-pubertal spay 6-7months. This has been the preferred option of many vets and assistance dog charities for some time. The surgery is easier as the dogs are slim , and there is no complication about timing around seasons and no loss of training time at a critical stage for working dogs. Neutering at this age keeps mammary tumour risk to a minimum. These surgeries can be booked in at the last vaccination which avoids clients forgetting to book. More recently, studies have suggested that neutering larger breeds prior to puberty and the end of bone growth could increase the chance of joint problems and some cancers. Now I would recommend spaying at this age only for toy and small breed dogs or where circumstances mean that a season would be very difficult to manage.
Post- puberty. This is my preferred option in most cases where a dog is not required for breeding or showing. For most breeds of dog neutering 3-4 months after their first or second season at 18-24 months gives the best balance of risks and benefits. It is vital that there is no sign of phantom pregnancy when the bitch is spayed.
Post- puppies/ end of career. I work with a lot of working dog clients and clients who wish to breed their dogs. For these dogs I advise neutering once the breeding or competition career is over. At 7-8 years old the bitch is still fit and well enough for routine surgery, but we can remove the risk of pyometra as she gets older. I often see uterine disease in older bitches, and owners report they are ‘happier’ and ‘act younger’ after surgery so I can only imagine some have been suffering uterine pain.
No neutering. Of course, there is the option to not neuter at all. If you chose this option make sure you check regularly for mammary lumps and keep notes on the dates and duration of your dogs seasons. If you notice heavier bleeding, bleeding between her normal seasons, or symptoms of pyometra contact your vet for advice urgently.
NEUTERING MALE DOGS
Most of this blog concerns female dogs as the options, risk, and benefits are more complicated. Most clients want to neuter their male dogs because they are worried about aggression, but male hormone related aggression is really not very common. More dogs come to me with variations of fear aggression, and neutering these dogs could make them worse. Neutering male dogs will reduce urine marking, searching for females, male aggression, and distress over in-season females. It won’t calm him down or make him easier to train!
Puberty in male dogs happens from 6 months old, and will happen later in larger dogs. There will be behaviour changes as testosterone surges and falls and your dog may show mild aggression to other dogs at times. I prefer to manage male dogs through puberty and neuter them when their behaviour is stable if required.
BENEFITS OF NEUTERING MALE DOGS
Reduces ‘male’ behaviours including roaming, marking, and male aggression.
Removes the risk of testicular cancer and reduces the risk of perianal adenoma and perineal hernia.
Prevents benign prostate enlargement, but not prostate cancer.
Prevents pregnancy. Does not always prevent mating!
RISKS OF NEUTERING MALE DOGS
Surgical risk. Although castration is less dangerous than spaying there are still anaesthetic risks and potential for complications.
Behaviour change. Nervous dogs may become more fearful after neutering.
Musculoskeletal problems. A higher risk of joint disease is found in neutered male dogs, but, as with females, there could be factors such as obesity and exercise at play as well as direct effects from neutering. As with females, neutering before growth plate closure can alter the length of bones.
Cancers. The risk of some cancers increases with neutering. These risks are breed specific and should be discussed with your vet.
Weight gain and coat changes. As with female dogs, neutered males are prone to weight gain and long coated breed can become fluffy.
TYPES OF NEUTERING FOR MALE DOGS
Castration. The testicles are removed, the scrotum is usually left unless diseased. This is the most common form of neutering for male dogs in the UK. Fertility declines very rapidly (days) but male behaviours related to testosterone will take a few weeks to decrease.
Medical castration. An implant is available which stops testosterone production. The testicles shrink, but most dogs will become fertile again when the implant wears off, and it can be removed. There is a risk of increased aggression in the first 4 weeks after treatment. A shorter acting injection can also be given but this can give different behavioural results to castration.
Vasectomy. Removing a section of the vas deferens makes a dog infertile but otherwise he will behave as an entire dog. It is an uncommon procedure in the UK for dogs.
WHEN SHOULD I NEUTER MY MALE DOG?
Neutering is less time dependant in males than in females.
Paediatric neutering 12-16weeks. This is carried out by a few breeders and rescue centres before rehoming to prevent breeding. The effects on growth and behaviour are not well studied but many vets have concerns about removing hormones at such a young age.
Pre-pubertal 6-7months. This is most suitable for toy and small breeds who have finished growing but care should be taken to avoid neutering when a dog is entering puberty and has an unstable temperament.
Post-pubertal neutering. Recommended for most dogs which need to be neutered. The appropriate age will depend on the breed and also how long the effects of puberty last. Medium breeds can be neutered from 12-18months of age, but large and giant breed dogs may benefit from later neutering. There is no upper age limit for neutering, but in mature dogs may require the removal of the scrotum to reduce the risk of post-op complications such as swelling and haematoma development.
SO, WHEN SHOULD I NEUTER MY DOG?
Pet guardians and vets would like a simple answer, but the truth is there isn’t a one size fits all recommendation. Review studies have assessed all the current data to try and suggest minimum neutering ages for common breeds that take into account all the positives and negatives, but environment and lifestyle are important factors too. The bets advice is to discuss neutering with a vet your trust in order to make a plan to suit you and your dog.
IS RAW FEEDING SAFE FOR MY PETS?
RAW FEEDING AND RESISTANT BACTERIA
A recently published study shows that dogs fed a raw diet shed more anti-microbial resistant Salmonella and E. coli than dogs fed on other diets.
Anti-microbial resistant bacteria present a real threat to human and animal health. The study made no suggestion that dogs were more likely to become ill from these bacteria if raw fed, but it does raise concerns that these bacteria could cause difficult to treat infections in people, particularly those with weakened immune systems.
HOW RAW DOG FOOD CAN INFECT PEOPLE
The risks to human health from raw feeding dogs are two-fold.
- Contamination when preparing raw dog food.
- Ingestion of bacteria from dog faeces.
REDUCING THE RISK OF INFECTION FROM RAW DOG FOOD
Raw dog food should be stored and prepared separately to human food.
Different, clearly marked utensils should be used for pets and people.
Raw food should be obtained from reputable sources.
Pet owners should consider wearing gloves when preparing raw food.
Pet bowls should be cleaned after each meal with hot water and detergent. Pet safe disinfectant may be useful for chopping boards and utensils.
IS RAW FEEDING SAFE FOR MY DOG?
Most dogs are able to eat raw food. Dogs are less likely to suffer from digestive upsets from raw food than humans due to their short digestive transit time and a robustness immune system.
The current study does not suggest that raw fed dogs are more likely to suffer from anti-microbial resistant bacteria than dogs fed other diets.
Raw diets must be carefully formulated to avoid nutritional excesses and deficiencies.
Feeding whole bones carries a risk of dental damage and obstructions of the throat and digestive tract.
Raw feeding should be avoided in dogs with a weakened immune system. This may include elderly pets and those on certain medications. If you prefer to feed a fresh diet, a home cooked one may be safer for these pets. If you are unsure if a raw diet is suitable for your dog please seek advice from a holistic vet.
IS RAW FEEDING SAFE FOR MY FAMILY?
Families with immune compromised members should avoid raw feeding their dogs.
Families with raw fed dogs should practise very good hygiene. Hands should be sanitised after picking up faeces and washed after handling dogs as microscopic particles of faeces can contaminate the coat. Allowing dogs to lick hands and faces should also be discouraged. However, these hygiene rules should be followed by all pet owning households!
Charities that take dogs into schools and hospitals may not allow raw fed dogs to take part.
Veterinary practices may employ barrier nursing for raw fed pets (and may charge additional fees for this).
FOUR SEASONS HOLISTIC VETERINARY CARE AND RAW FEEDING
We continue to support pet owners in a variety of feeding plans including raw, home cooked, and commercial wet and kibble food. We do not believe that one diet suits all pets or pet families.
This study does not change our advice significantly, but we are always happy to talk to pet owners about a suitable diet.
If you wish to read the study follow this link: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jsap.13488