PROGESTERONE FOR PUPPY PLANNING
COMING INTO ‘SEASON’
The reproductive biology of female dogs is quite different to female humans. Dogs are only sexually receptive once or twice a year. The most common time between ‘seasons’ is 7 months, but some individuals have shorter or longer intervals. Dogs can have their first season from 6-18 months of age.
Dogs are not ready to mate when their season starts, which allows owners to plan mating, or plan on how to prevent mating! When your dog is in season you must avoid exercising her where there may be male dogs off lead and she should never be left unsupervised. If your dog is mated accidentally, call your vet for advice.
HOW DO I KNOW MY DOG IS IN SEASON?
Your dog may show changes in behaviour before her season. She may become clingy or aloof, more friendly with other dogs or less tolerant of them. Other dogs might start to show more interest in her.
The first day of her season is when you first see a pink or red discharge at the vulva. The vulva then swells significantly. Some bitches show abdominal discomfort in the first week of their season.
After 7-10 days the discharge becomes more straw coloured and the vulva less swollen. This is when your dog is approaching her fertile period. Mating at this point usually results in pregnancy because healthy dog sperm can survive up to 7 days in the female.
After 3-4 weeks your dogs will no longer be of interest to males and her vulva will reduce in size. If it is her first season her vulva will not return to its prepubertal size.
KNOWING WHEN TO MATE
Dates and Behaviour
Most dogs will conceive if mated between day 10 and 14 from the first day of their season. If she allows the dog to mate she is probably in her fertile window. Experienced stud dogs will also show less interest in a female dog if she is not around ovulation.
However, using these methods gives little indication of when puppies will be born. Pregnancy, if counted from mating, can appear to be as short as 58 days or as long as 69 days.
Ovulation Prediction
A test that can predict when a dog ovulates gives the breeder more information on when to mate the dog, but also when to expect puppies. The eggs are not ready to be fertilised until 2 days after ovulation and stay ready for up to 48hours. Dogs are pregnant for 63 days from ovulation (plus or minus one day).
Ovulation tests offered to breeders include blood progesterone testing, vaginal cytology, ovulation pads, and ferning.
Vaginal cytology can be accurate if it is performed by an experience person and repeated every 2 days from the start of the season until after mating.
Progesterone testing requires a blood sample to be taken by a vet (fertility clinics can run tests but only vets can take blood by law). The most accurate results are gained by testeing every 2 days from day 8 or 9 of the season until ovulation occurs. Single tests can be difficult to interpret in some cases.
Saliva ferning gives an indication of oestrogen levels but is not accurate enough on its own.
Other tests such as ovulation pads, vaginal pH, and electric conductivity are not scientifically validated and should be avoided.
Puppy Prediction
Puppies should arrive 62-64 days after ovulation, regardless of mating date. Large litters tend to arrive early, and small litters slightly later. If puppies have not arrive by day 65 from ovulation seek veterinary advice.
If the date of ovulation is unknown and a breeder is worried the puppies are late, or where a caesarian may be needed because there is only one big puppy, progesterone tests can be used to predict when it is safe to remove the puppies.
Progesterone drops sharply just before birth so progesterone is low the puppies need to be delivered. If it is still high the puppies can stay inside a bit longer. In very rare cases the drop doesn’t happen which is why knowing the true due date is so important.
PUPPY PLANNING
Chosing to breed a litter of puppies should not be done lightly. Breeding and raising puppies correctly is expensive, time consuming, and it can be both a joyful time and a time of heartbreak. Speak to your vet and to experienced mentors before deciding to breed your dog.
HIPS SCORES FOR BREEDING DOGS
HIP IN THE UK – ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT?
Breeders of many dog breeds choose to use the Kennel Club/ British Veterinary Association Hip and Elbow schemes to try and select the parents least likely to produce puppies with hip or elbow dysplasia. But is the scheme working? Some think not.
SLOW PROGRESS IN HIP SCORES
Research shows that years of hip scoring has increased the percentage of dogs with the lowest scores, but it hasn’t made much impact on the numbers with mild hip dysplasia or worse. So is there any point? The problem with these studies is that they are based on the results from images submitted to the scheme and these are not representative of the state of any breed as a whole. Firstly only a small percentage of dogs are selected as potential breeding dogs, in some breeds not all potential breeding dogs are tested, only sound dogs over a year are usually tested, and (despite the scheme rules) some vets don’t send in images of hips they think will get a poor score. The published results only reflect the better end of the spectrum and give very little data on the worst hips, or dogs which are diagnosed before 12months of age. As a GP vet I believe I see far fewer dogs that are lame with hip dysplasia at 6-12months, and less dogs needing treatment for hip arthritis before they reach 8-10 years old than I did as a young vet so I think hip scoring is doing a lot of good… but you can’t publish a paper without data.
THE BABY AND THE BATHWATER?
Researchers only consider hips with a total score under 5 as ‘normal’. Most dogs with scores of 6-10 will have no changes in their hips over time, and even dogs scoring up to 20 will probably suffer only manageable arthritic pain in old age. Whilst it may be the Holy Grail to produce only puppies with normal hips, it must always be remebered that a dog is more than their health tests. If we select too strongly for excellent hip scores we might lose temperament, type, working ability, and we will definitley shrink the gene pool which can lead to other genetic probems cropping up.
IMPROVING HIP SCORES IN THE UK
Hip scores could be reduced in UK dogs by adopting one or more of the following methods;
Score later
Taking images for hip scoring at 12months, as we do in the UK, could miss up to 30% of dogs which will go on to develop hip dysplasia in later life. Waiting until dogs are over 2 years old (as for the American OFFA scheme) reduces this to under 10%.
Score differently
The standard ventro-dorsal extended leg view used by most hip schemes makes the joint look tighter than it is in the standing dog. As joint laxity is the most heritable and most significant driver of hip dysplasia using a test that measure joint laxity allows us to predict whether a dog will get hip dysplasia more accurately. The PennHIP test can be done in young dogs (from 16 weeks) so is a useful screening test for breeders choosing which dogs to keep. It is less used than the BVA scheme as vets need extra training and certification, and positioning for the 3 images is more complicated and time consuming (in the USA dogs are often held for the films, in the UK holding dogs for non-emergency x-rays is forbidden).
Use genetic tests
So far we only have one genetic test for hip dysplasia. The Dysgen test looks at several markers which may reflect a higher predisposition to hip dysplasia. As yet the test is only validated for Labrador Retrievers, and there is little guidance on how it can be used to make breeding decisions.
Use estimate breeding values and vertical pedigrees
By looking at the scores of a dog’s relatives and offspring it is possible to get an indea whether they will produce puppies with scores similar to, better, or worse than their own. The Kennel Club publishes EBVs for dogs in some of the more common breeds but where a dog has few tested relatives the accuracy reduces.
Move the goalposts
At the moment the recommendation is to breed from dogs with a score equal to or less than the 5 year median (middle score) for the breed. Though logical to breed from average or better than average dogs, this does have challenges and limitations. As previously mentioned, the median score is calculated only from submitted images, so if there are lots of young lame dogs that aren’t scored the median could be artificially low. Alternatively, if a breed generally has poor hips the average may still be unacceptably high.
Research suggests that if we chose only to breed from the lowest 25 or 30% of dogs hip scores would come down more quickly. However, this could lead to a reduction in overall genetic diversity and selection for other issues. Alternatively we could look at the scores regardless of breed and suggest only breeding from ‘excellent’, ‘good’, and maybe ‘fair’ scores, putting ‘fair’ to ‘excellent’ (this grading is more similar to that used in Europe and America than our numbers based system). But again, if we focus in too much on hips, we risk creating new problems. And in some breeds there would be almost no dogs left to breed!
HOW TO USE HIP SCORES IN BREEDING PROGRAMMES
The aim of a breeding programme won’t be the same for every breeder. For working animals, such as Guide Dogs or Police Dogs, it may be important to produce as many dogs as possible with ‘normal’ hips to ensure a long working life. Here it may make sense to use PennHIP to screen potential breeding dogs at an early stage, and if using the BVA scheme to choose animals with a score of 10 or less. If a dog has other good characteristics but a slighty higher score (up to 14) they could be paired with a lower scoring mate, especially if they have a good EBV.
For pet dogs a good temperament is the most important thing, and buyers may be more accepting of a dog needing medical support for arthritis as they hit double figures. Using breeding dogs with scores under 15 and excellent temperaments is probably sufficient, and there shouldn’t be a temptation to use a very low scoring dog if they aren’t of sound temperament!
In a breed with a high average hip score or low numbers the aim might be to reduce the score of puppies more gradually. This may mean pairing above average scores with below average scores.
Some vets take a huge interest in breeding better dogs and are happy to discuss the results of your dog’s tests, or the result of teh parents of a puppy you are considering. Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care can’t take radiographs for the BVA scheme, though our vet also works at Companion Care Vets in Eastbourne (01323 649325) who can. We can offer telephone consultations to discuss results.
“ARE YOU PLANNING TO NEUTER YOUR DOG?”
You’ve taken your puppy to the vets for their final puppy vaccination. The vet hands over the completed vaccination card, gives your puppy a treat and the says, “the next big thing is neutering, shall we get them booked in?” Yikes!
WHY IS MY VET ASKING IF I AM GOING TO NEUTER MY PUPPY?
Vets want to get a lot of information across to new puppy owners in a short space of time. Vets want you to think about your dog becoming fertile well before they do. Vets want to avoid accidental mating, unwanted litters, roaming dogs, and avoidable diseases associated with ‘entire’ dogs.
I like to introduce the dog reproduction question by asking, “are you planning to neuter your dog?” as this allows my client to guide the rest of the conversation. If they answer, “we are hoping to breed” I can discuss health testing, mate selection, all the scary negatives, and all the lovely positives. If they answer, “yes, when should we book the surgery” I can discuss the optimal time based on their individual circumstances. If they answer, “we don’t know” again, this opens up a different discussion on the pros and cons which take their circumstances into account.
SHOULD I NEUTER MY FEMALE DOG?
Most female dogs will experience their first fertile period (called a ‘season’ or ‘heat’ between the age of 6 and 18months. Larger breeds tend to have their first season later than small breeds, and the pattern often follows that of their mother. The average time between seasons is 7 months, though some bitches will only have one season a year.
During her season your bitch will have swelling of her vulva, a bloody discharge from the vulva, and she will become attractive to male dogs. The season lasts 21-28 days for most bitches with a fertile window from day 10 in the average bitch. With rapid hormonal changes you may seem changes in your dog’s temperament. During her season your dog should not be walked where other dogs might be off lead and she should not attend training classes or competitions. If you own both male and female dogs they should be kept apart during her season. Neutered male dogs can mate and tie with a bitch and if this happens when they aren’t supervised injuries can occur to both dogs.
Around 2months after her season your bitch may show signs of pseudocyesis (false, or phantom pregnancy) because she has very similar hormone levels after her season if she is pregnant and if she is not! False pregnancy usually shows as swollen mammary glands with some milk production, but it can cause a swollen belly, false labour, and behavioural changes.
BENEFITS OF NEUTERING YOUR FEMALE DOG
No seasons. This is useful for mixed groups of dogs and working/ sporting dogs where being out of action for two months of the year is undesirable.
No pregnancy. Although it should be simple to prevent unwanted mating, and despite there being drugs available to stop a pregnancy after a mismating, removing the risk of accidental puppies is a key factor in many owners choosing to neuter their female dog. This is also the prime reason rescue centres will neuter, or rehome on a neutering contract.
Reduced risk of mammary cancers. The studies on mammary (breast) cancer risk in dogs are old, but it is probably still valid to warn that the risk of mammary tumours increases exponentially after the first season. Neutering at any stage is believed to halt the risk (but not reduce it further).
Prevention of uterine disease. Pyometra is a life threatening infection of the womb which might affect as many as 1 in 4 bitches over 8 years (based on insurance company data from a country where routine neutering is banned). Uterine cancers are less common.
Other cancers. The risk of some other cancers is reduced by neutering. The research is breed specific and should be discussed with your vet.
RISKS OF NEUTERING YOUR FEMALE DOG
Surgical risk. All surgical procedures carry a risk of incidents, including death. The bitch spay is the most dangerous operation that vets do on a daily basis. Very young, very old, overweight, and sick animals are at higher risk.
Behaviour change. Most bitches have the same temperament after spaying as they did between seasons. In rare cases a bitch can become more aggressive after neutering, but these are usually slightly aggressive before and it is thought they have been masculinised in the womb by their male siblings.
Musculoskeletal problems. Several joint problems may be more likely in neutered bitches. There isn’t a clear causal link in all cases and the link could be due to higher rates of obesity in neutered dogs, different exercise patterns, or other environmental factors. Neutering before bone growth has stopped can alter the lengths of the leg bones and this could be a factor in joint problems.
Other cancers. The risk of some cancers is increased by neutering. The research is breed specific and should be discussed with your vet.
Urinary incontinence. Urine leaking is more likely in spayed bitches and may occur earlier than in entire bitches. It can be controlled with medication.
Weight and coat changes. Neutered females are at a higher risk of weight gain and long coated breeds may develop a fluffy coat. These effects can be managed!
TYPES OF NEUTERING FOR FEMALE DOGS
Traditional Ovariohysterectomy (spay). This option is still the most common in the UK. The vet makes an incision (from a few cm’s to the full length of the belly) and removed the ovaries and uterus. This operation takes 30-60minutes and dogs go home the same day. This option is suitable for all dogs, including older dogs who may have uterine disease. Exercise should be restricted for 4-6weeks.
Ovariectomy. This is a popular option in Europe where the ovaries are removed but the uterus is left. There is no risk of pyometra if the ovaries are fully removed. This option is most suited to young botches where there is a low risk of uterine disease. Ovariectomy can be performed through a traditional incision or by laparoscopic surgery. Recovery is still 4-6 weeks.
Laparoscopic spay. Increasingly popular as initial recovery may be faster and the incisions might be smaller, but the set up and anaesthetic time can be longer. Usually the ovaries are removed, but the uterus left, so this is more suitable for younger bitches. Full recovery still takes 4-6 weeks!
Medical options. An injection can be given to delay or prevent seasons. It can only be used after the first season and can increase the risk of pyometra and future infertility.
Hysterectomy. Also called ‘ovary sparing spay’ this is one which I do not believe has a place in UK dog care. The uterus is removed but the ovaries are left so the risks and benefits are the same as for an entire bitch (other than pregnancy), except that you have added surgical risk.
Tubal ligation. Useful in humans, but again, this leaves you with all the problems of an entire female apart from pregnancy.
WHEN SHOULD I NEUTER MY FEMALE DOG?
Peadiatric spay 12-16weeks. This is not common in the UK, but is requested by some breeders prior to sale, and may be done by rescue centres. The advantage is population control pure and simple and avoids having to follow up on neutering contracts. Many vets have concerns about the effects of puppies not having a normal hormonal influence as they develop, both on behavioural and physical health. Luckily, these are usually small breed dogs with lower overall risk of joint problems and where juvenile behaviour may be preferred.
Pre-pubertal spay 6-7months. This has been the preferred option of many vets and assistance dog charities for some time. The surgery is easier as the dogs are slim , and there is no complication about timing around seasons and no loss of training time at a critical stage for working dogs. Neutering at this age keeps mammary tumour risk to a minimum. These surgeries can be booked in at the last vaccination which avoids clients forgetting to book. More recently, studies have suggested that neutering larger breeds prior to puberty and the end of bone growth could increase the chance of joint problems and some cancers. Now I would recommend spaying at this age only for toy and small breed dogs or where circumstances mean that a season would be very difficult to manage.
Post- puberty. This is my preferred option in most cases where a dog is not required for breeding or showing. For most breeds of dog neutering 3-4 months after their first or second season at 18-24 months gives the best balance of risks and benefits. It is vital that there is no sign of phantom pregnancy when the bitch is spayed.
Post- puppies/ end of career. I work with a lot of working dog clients and clients who wish to breed their dogs. For these dogs I advise neutering once the breeding or competition career is over. At 7-8 years old the bitch is still fit and well enough for routine surgery, but we can remove the risk of pyometra as she gets older. I often see uterine disease in older bitches, and owners report they are ‘happier’ and ‘act younger’ after surgery so I can only imagine some have been suffering uterine pain.
No neutering. Of course, there is the option to not neuter at all. If you chose this option make sure you check regularly for mammary lumps and keep notes on the dates and duration of your dogs seasons. If you notice heavier bleeding, bleeding between her normal seasons, or symptoms of pyometra contact your vet for advice urgently.
NEUTERING MALE DOGS
Most of this blog concerns female dogs as the options, risk, and benefits are more complicated. Most clients want to neuter their male dogs because they are worried about aggression, but male hormone related aggression is really not very common. More dogs come to me with variations of fear aggression, and neutering these dogs could make them worse. Neutering male dogs will reduce urine marking, searching for females, male aggression, and distress over in-season females. It won’t calm him down or make him easier to train!
Puberty in male dogs happens from 6 months old, and will happen later in larger dogs. There will be behaviour changes as testosterone surges and falls and your dog may show mild aggression to other dogs at times. I prefer to manage male dogs through puberty and neuter them when their behaviour is stable if required.
BENEFITS OF NEUTERING MALE DOGS
Reduces ‘male’ behaviours including roaming, marking, and male aggression.
Removes the risk of testicular cancer and reduces the risk of perianal adenoma and perineal hernia.
Prevents benign prostate enlargement, but not prostate cancer.
Prevents pregnancy. Does not always prevent mating!
RISKS OF NEUTERING MALE DOGS
Surgical risk. Although castration is less dangerous than spaying there are still anaesthetic risks and potential for complications.
Behaviour change. Nervous dogs may become more fearful after neutering.
Musculoskeletal problems. A higher risk of joint disease is found in neutered male dogs, but, as with females, there could be factors such as obesity and exercise at play as well as direct effects from neutering. As with females, neutering before growth plate closure can alter the length of bones.
Cancers. The risk of some cancers increases with neutering. These risks are breed specific and should be discussed with your vet.
Weight gain and coat changes. As with female dogs, neutered males are prone to weight gain and long coated breed can become fluffy.
TYPES OF NEUTERING FOR MALE DOGS
Castration. The testicles are removed, the scrotum is usually left unless diseased. This is the most common form of neutering for male dogs in the UK. Fertility declines very rapidly (days) but male behaviours related to testosterone will take a few weeks to decrease.
Medical castration. An implant is available which stops testosterone production. The testicles shrink, but most dogs will become fertile again when the implant wears off, and it can be removed. There is a risk of increased aggression in the first 4 weeks after treatment. A shorter acting injection can also be given but this can give different behavioural results to castration.
Vasectomy. Removing a section of the vas deferens makes a dog infertile but otherwise he will behave as an entire dog. It is an uncommon procedure in the UK for dogs.
WHEN SHOULD I NEUTER MY MALE DOG?
Neutering is less time dependant in males than in females.
Paediatric neutering 12-16weeks. This is carried out by a few breeders and rescue centres before rehoming to prevent breeding. The effects on growth and behaviour are not well studied but many vets have concerns about removing hormones at such a young age.
Pre-pubertal 6-7months. This is most suitable for toy and small breeds who have finished growing but care should be taken to avoid neutering when a dog is entering puberty and has an unstable temperament.
Post-pubertal neutering. Recommended for most dogs which need to be neutered. The appropriate age will depend on the breed and also how long the effects of puberty last. Medium breeds can be neutered from 12-18months of age, but large and giant breed dogs may benefit from later neutering. There is no upper age limit for neutering, but in mature dogs may require the removal of the scrotum to reduce the risk of post-op complications such as swelling and haematoma development.
SO, WHEN SHOULD I NEUTER MY DOG?
Pet guardians and vets would like a simple answer, but the truth is there isn’t a one size fits all recommendation. Review studies have assessed all the current data to try and suggest minimum neutering ages for common breeds that take into account all the positives and negatives, but environment and lifestyle are important factors too. The bets advice is to discuss neutering with a vet your trust in order to make a plan to suit you and your dog.
IS RAW FEEDING SAFE FOR MY PETS?
RAW FEEDING AND RESISTANT BACTERIA
A recently published study shows that dogs fed a raw diet shed more anti-microbial resistant Salmonella and E. coli than dogs fed on other diets.
Anti-microbial resistant bacteria present a real threat to human and animal health. The study made no suggestion that dogs were more likely to become ill from these bacteria if raw fed, but it does raise concerns that these bacteria could cause difficult to treat infections in people, particularly those with weakened immune systems.
HOW RAW DOG FOOD CAN INFECT PEOPLE
The risks to human health from raw feeding dogs are two-fold.
- Contamination when preparing raw dog food.
- Ingestion of bacteria from dog faeces.
REDUCING THE RISK OF INFECTION FROM RAW DOG FOOD
Raw dog food should be stored and prepared separately to human food.
Different, clearly marked utensils should be used for pets and people.
Raw food should be obtained from reputable sources.
Pet owners should consider wearing gloves when preparing raw food.
Pet bowls should be cleaned after each meal with hot water and detergent. Pet safe disinfectant may be useful for chopping boards and utensils.
IS RAW FEEDING SAFE FOR MY DOG?
Most dogs are able to eat raw food. Dogs are less likely to suffer from digestive upsets from raw food than humans due to their short digestive transit time and a robustness immune system.
The current study does not suggest that raw fed dogs are more likely to suffer from anti-microbial resistant bacteria than dogs fed other diets.
Raw diets must be carefully formulated to avoid nutritional excesses and deficiencies.
Feeding whole bones carries a risk of dental damage and obstructions of the throat and digestive tract.
Raw feeding should be avoided in dogs with a weakened immune system. This may include elderly pets and those on certain medications. If you prefer to feed a fresh diet, a home cooked one may be safer for these pets. If you are unsure if a raw diet is suitable for your dog please seek advice from a holistic vet.
IS RAW FEEDING SAFE FOR MY FAMILY?
Families with immune compromised members should avoid raw feeding their dogs.
Families with raw fed dogs should practise very good hygiene. Hands should be sanitised after picking up faeces and washed after handling dogs as microscopic particles of faeces can contaminate the coat. Allowing dogs to lick hands and faces should also be discouraged. However, these hygiene rules should be followed by all pet owning households!
Charities that take dogs into schools and hospitals may not allow raw fed dogs to take part.
Veterinary practices may employ barrier nursing for raw fed pets (and may charge additional fees for this).
FOUR SEASONS HOLISTIC VETERINARY CARE AND RAW FEEDING
We continue to support pet owners in a variety of feeding plans including raw, home cooked, and commercial wet and kibble food. We do not believe that one diet suits all pets or pet families.
This study does not change our advice significantly, but we are always happy to talk to pet owners about a suitable diet.
If you wish to read the study follow this link: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jsap.13488
PUPPIES AND KITTENS!
PLANNING A PUPPY OR KITTEN?
As the days get longer and the weather gets better, the idea of getting a new puppy or kitten may become appealing. Kitten season starts in the spring and many dog breeders prefer spring and summer litters so their puppies can enjoy some time outdoors.
SHOP OR ADOPT?
Taking on a pet from a rehoming centre can be very rewarding, but it isn’t always the right option. Rehoming centres may have puppies and kittens available, but information on their parents health and temperament will usually be unknown. If you rehome an adult animal, you will know much more about its size and temperament and you might be lucky enough to find yourself an instant pet with no need for housetraining. However, many pets in rehoming centres will need time and sensitive handling to manage behavioural problems. If you plan to compete or work your dog, then buying a puppy will give you a blank slate to work with, but many rehomed dogs can be trained to a high level and the police, support dog charities, and agility competitors often choose rehomed dogs.
I WANT A PUPPY
The advantage to choosing a puppy from a breeder is that you should be able to get all the information on the parents (and maybe several generations back) and to see how your puppy had been reared. Ideally choose your breed after researching breed club websites and meeting the breed. Crufts Dog Show in March has a Discover Dogs area where you can meet all the KC recognised breeds as well as areas where you can talk to experts about dog sports and training. Once you have chosen a breed which suits your lifestyle, look for a breeder. If you can find a breeder before the pups are born you will be able to follow your pups progress and the breeder can start to get your pup ready for their new life.
The best dog breeders are passionate! Expect to be shown health test results for mum and dad, as well as hearing about why their dogs are wonderful. This might be show or competition wins, their working prowess, or (most importantly) just why they are fantastic companions. Expect to be asked a lot of questions; breeders can be (and should be) very picky about where their puppies go. Good breeders offer lifetime support, and will help with rehoming if you can’t keep your puppy (at any age), but they really want you to have a long and happy time together. Look for a puppy which is reared in the home and where the breeder is introducing the pups to the sights, sounds, and smells they will encounter when they leave home. Expect to sign a contract when buying, and to be given an information pack all about your new puppy.
Be on the lookout for bad breeders. They can be very hard to spot! Increasingly puppies from puppy farms are presented as being raised in a family home. If you are not visiting until puppies are ready for sale ask to see photographs and videos of the puppies as they have grown. Good breeders are going to take loads of photos and videos! Be very suspicious if you can’t see mum. Mum might not be living in with the puppies at 8weeks as they should be fully weaned before sale, but you should be able to meet her and see the puppies interact with her. Never be rushed into buying a puppy, and never buy a sick puppy or because you feel sorry for it. Consider taking some photos and report to Trading Standards and the RSPCA if you have any concerns.
I WANT A KITTEN
If you are looking for a pedigree kitten, similar advice applies as for puppies. GFC registered kittens can’t be sold before 15 weeks. Most kittens are not pedigrees and are the result of accidental matings of domestic cats. Farm kittens can have more independent characters and some remain resolutely feral so these may not be the best option for a city home.
Again, you should feel good about the home you are buying a kitten from. It should be clean, but show evidence that cats have lived there! A friendly mum increases the chance of friendly kittens, but remember that cats are often more shy with visitors than dogs. Do not buy a kitten if it or the mother show signs of diarrhoea or respiratory disease and avoid skinny sick kittens with pot bellies and a host of fleas!
CONGRATULATIONS…NOW FOR THE HARD WORK!
Having found your perfect pet partner, the hard work begins. Book in with your vet in the first week to discuss vaccinations and parasite control. Keep in touch with your breeder as they really love to know how their ‘babies’ are doing. Book classes for your puppy to learn basic obedience and socialisation, or provide indoor entertainment for your kitten! Spend time getting them used to handling and grooming…take lots of photos and enjoy your new arrival.
WHAT NEXT IN DOGGY DIETS?
WHAT’S NEXT IN DOGGY DIETS?
Some of you may have noticed my brief appearance on The One Show earlier this year assessing the health of dogs on vegan or meat based diets. Environmental concerns are leading to more people investigating alternative diets for their pets, including feeding dogs vegan diets. Although the investigation by the show (in conjunction with Wanda McCormick at The University of Northampton) was on a very small scale, it found that homemade diets, both vegan and meat based were not providing everything the dogs needed for longer term health, but neither was the commercial vegan diet… you might also have read about grain free diets being linked to heart disease in dogs in America, raw meat diets being a health hazard to pets and their owners, and even insects being touted as the next big thing in pet foods…so…what’s going on?
GRAIN FREE DIETS AND DCM
At the time of writing the diet related dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) cases appear to be limited to North America. The affected dogs have been fed one of a range of grain free or exotic meat based diets. Although these diets contain adequate nutrition on paper, they seem not be support heart health in some dogs. The exact cause remains unclear but the use of legumes (peas and beans) as a significant part of the diet may be to blame.
Take home message: small pet food companies may not be doing any testing to ensure they meet minimum nutritional guidelines. Those that do may only do computer balancing. Larger manufacturers do feeding trials to ensure a food can maintain health in dogs over a period of time. Look for food from PFMA members, or ask if the food meets FEDIAF guidelines.
RAW RISKS
There have been a number of papers published in the last few years highlighting the potential risks of raw meat based diets. Major areas of concern include the risk to owners from handling raw meat, and the potential for raw fed pets to shed harmful bacteria into their environment. Contaminated meat could also make pets sick, and there are numerous case reports of dogs requiring treatment for broken teeth or intestinal obstruction after eating raw bones. Studies have also shown that homemade diets may not be nutritionally balanced.
But…most of the papers on the risks from bacteria highlight a possible risk, rather than actual cases. With good hygiene practices, a raw fed dog should present very little extra risk over a kibble fed dog. After all, most dogs will eat cat faeces or roadkill given half a chance! Both raw and kibble diets have suffered recalls due to contamination in recent years. That said, caution should be taken if the household contains babies, toddlers, the elderly, or immunocompromised members, and the recommendation that PAT dogs should not be raw fed seems very sensible. Broken teeth and intestinal obstruction risks are present with raw bones, but also with many toys and chews. As with toys and chews, supervision and choosing appropriately sized bones is the key to risk mitigation.
For a balanced raw diet choose a commercial diet from a PFMA member who is meeting FEDIAF guidelines. Honey’s recently did a version of a feeding trial which showed their foods keep real dogs healthy. Alternatively, seek out the advice of a vet with raw feeding experience who can help you devise a home prepared diet for your dog.
VEGETARIAN OR VEGAN?
If you are cutting back on meat to save the planet, or have gone fully vegetarian or vegan, can your dog do the same? Dogs can survive on vegetarian diets, but may require supplementation of certain vitamins and essential amino acids. Vegan diets present a much harder challenge, especially as synthetic versions of key trace elements are removed from the market. There are several commercial vegan diets available, but if you read the small print all are described as ‘complementary’ meaning they are not designed to be fed as the only food. FEDIAF compliant complete vegetarian diets are available however, and can be useful in diagnosing and treating adverse food reactions.
BUGS!
Is the future eating bugs? The first dogs treats and foods based on insect protein are hitting the shelves and are said to offer an alternative which is better for the planet than pets consuming large amounts of high carbon footprint meat. But, pet food is made from the by-products of human meat consumption. Despite the pretty illustrations on the packaging, your dog’s dinner is not made from prime cuts of meat, but from the parts people don’t want…tongue, tendons, fascia, skin, tripe, old animals, and meat recovered by mechanical means from the bones. If this ‘waste’ didn’t become pet food it would be truly wasted… if humans significantly reduce their meat intake perhaps there won’t be enough to go around for our pets, and then we may need to look at alternatives. Personally, I think I’ll get my protein from plants rather than bugs, but a kibble made of insects will look (and I presume taste!) very much the same as one made with meat so it could be a way forward for pets. However, the problems with grain free/ exotic meat diets in the US gives me cause for concern. More work is needed to ensure insect protein provides the nutrition dogs need when fed as well as on paper.
Where does this leave us as dog owners who just want to do the right thing by our pets, the planet, and our wallets? I think we should investigate new ideas in pet feeding with an open, but enquiring, mind and we should ask pet food manufacturers large and small how they are ensuring diets are safe and nutritious for our pets to eat.
At Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary Care we take an, ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’ approach to pet diets and never ask a pet owner to change for the sake of it. However, diet can be used to treat a range of conditions and our vet Vicky will work with clients wanting to use commercial, homemade, or raw diets. Email health@holisticvetsussex.co.uk for more information.
WHAT *THIS* VET WANTS YOU TO KNOW ABOUT *THAT* EUTHANASIA POST
WHAT THIS VET WANTS YOU TO KNOW ABOUT ‘THAT’ EUTHANASIA POST
Over the last month an upsetting post has popped up on my Facebook wall again and again. In various slightly different guises it suggests that a “tired, broken-hearted vet” told the author that 90% of owners don’t stay when their pet is brought in for euthanasia, and that the pets “search for you when you leave them behind”. It goes on to call owners who don’t stay with their pets “cowards”.
Personally, I think the post is bull. I don’t think a vet wrote it, I don’t think a vet even said those things. The post simply doesn’t chime with my own experience of pet euthanasia.
PET EUTHANASIA: SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GO?
I feel that the decision to stay with your pet or leave it with the veterinary staff is one that only the owner can make. I would never consider someone who felt unable to stay a coward. There are many reasons why staying might not be the right decision for some, or all, family members. The truth is that whether you stay or leave, you pet will soon die peacefully. Only you can decide if you will be haunted by seeing your pet die, or whether you will be comforted by the memories of being there in the last moments.
The exact procedure for euthanasia varies; sometimes a sedative injection is given into the muscle first, sometimes a cannula is placed in a leg vein, and sometimes the euthanasia drug is given straight into the vein. The veterinary staff may need to take your pet to another are to place a cannula or to give sedation. It is a good idea to discuss the procedure with your vet before the day so you know what to expect. With small pets such as rabbits, rats, and guinea pigs it is usual to anaesthetise them with anaesthetic gas first; for health and safety reasons you may not be allowed to be present for this part.
If you stay your pet will be settled on a comfy blanket with a nurse supporting them. It may be possible for you to hold your pet, or the veterinary team will make sure you can stroke your pet and comfort them. The euthanasia solution is painless and quickly causes unconsciousness before stopping the heart. The vet will check that the heart has stopped and will let you know that your pet has passed away.
If you choose not to stay…exactly the same thing happens. A nurse will take your place and cuddle your pet and offer treats and make sure that they aren’t looking around for you. Remember; your pet does not know that this is a euthanasia appointment and that you won’t be back together in just in tick.
If you don’t want to see your pet euthanased, but would like to spend time with their body afterwards that can also be arranged.
PET EUTHANASIA: AT HOME OR AT THE VETS?
Home euthanasia visits can be beautiful. I have sent dogs on their final journey in gardens as the sun sets, and given cats their final injection as they purr in front of a fire. But it isn’t always such a nice experience. A home visit may not be suitable for a dog that doesn’t welcome strangers in their home, and nothing is more upsetting than desperately trying to find a cat that has hidden. Again, think about yourself too…will passing the place where Rover was euthanased upset you every day? If you do choose home euthanasia make sure there is good light to allow the veterinary team to to their job, as well as finding a spot where your pet will be comfortable. Home euthanasia may not be readily be available in an emergency at night or at the weekend, so have a back-up plan.
Most pets still go to the vets for their final visit and veterinary practices try hard to make this experience as nice as possible for everyone, including the pet. The practice may book your appointment at a quiet time of day, let you enter and leave through a back door, and may have a special room so you aren’t rushed. You might like to bring a favourite treat, and a blanket which smells of home. If your pet is very afraid of the vets but can’t have a home visit either, your vet may be able to prescribe relaxing medication to give before you arrive.
PET EUTHANASIA: WHAT HAPPENS NEXT?
Whether your pet is euthanased at home, in the clinic, or dies at home your will need to make arrangements for their body. Home burial is only an option for smaller pets, or if you have a large space. Consider where there might be watercourses or underground obstructions, and also how your would feel if you left your home and pet’s body behind.
Vet practices usually have an arrangement with a pet crematorium to collect deceased pets. Options offered include communal cremation where a group of pets are cremated together before their ashes are interred at the crematorium and individual cremation where your pet is cremated on their own and ashes can be returned. Ashed can be returned in a variety of containers from cardboard ‘scatter tubes’ to wooden caskets or pottery urns. You can even have ashes incorporated into jewellery or placed into a photo frame or cast model of an animal.
Some pet crematoriums offer a collection service from your home or vets, and may even offer a same day cremation and ashes return service.
WHY EUTHANASIA DOESN’T UPSET THIS VET (MUCH)
It might sound odd, but I don’t get tired and broken-hearted by pet euthanasia. I see it as the last best thing I can do for pets who I can’t help further with surgery, or medication, or complementary therapy, or behaviour work. It is hard to see families so upset at losing their pet, but heartening to see what that pet meant to them, how it was part of their lives. I never judge on whether the family want to stay, or not, and if they can’t stay my team step in to make sure the pet knows it was loved right to the end. And we tell them that you’ve just stepped out and will be back any second. They always go knowing you loved them.
FAT DOG SLIM
FAT DOG SLIM
Lose the puppy fat!
WHY IS IT SO HARD FOR OUR PUPS TO SHED THEIR PUPPY FAT?
Our vet Vicky recently went on a course about how dogs move, but the research teams had found out about more than just the mechanics of dog locomotion.
Dogs are incredibly good at trotting. Tracking their close relatives, wolves, in Germany showed that packs covered over 30miles a day! They hunt their prey by slowly wearing it down, only going in for the kill when the prey is exhausted. Wolves can do this because trotting is incredibly energy efficient, and because they have a type of muscle fiber that doesn’t tire in the way our does. Our dogs have inherited these traits, which is why most dogs won’t tire on a walk or run before you do!
The efficiency with which dogs move may have caused a problem though. An adult dog walking 5-7miles a day uses just 5-10% of his daily calories for that exercise! Over 70% of the calories he eats are used in maintaining a stable body temperature, and the rest for digestion, repair etc. This means it is easy to overestimate how much food our dogs need. If a 30kg Labrador who gets two 45minute walks a day needs 200g of a complete dry food, he would need less than 20g extra food if he started going for two 90minute walks! And it gets worse…an overweight dog has more fat to insulate the body so less calories are needed to maintain body temperature.
Obesity is a huge problem for pet dogs. Being overweight predisposes pets to joint and mobility problems, diabetes, even some cancers. Aim for your dog to have a body condition score of 4-5. If you think your dog is overweight consult your veterinary practice for advice.
At Four Seasons Holistic Veterinary care we can help support those who want to feed a raw or homemade diet, as well as those who choose prepared foods, and we can advise on safe and fun exercise plans. Contact us for more details.
Body Condition Chart from Royal Canin
GARLIC: HERB OR HAZARD?
GARLIC: HERB OR HAZARD?
We’ve been asked several times later if garlic is toxic to dogs. The internet gives conflicting advice with recipes for dog treat which contain garlic, but posters listing garlic as a potential poison…so today our blog is an attempt at the truth about garlic!
Herb or Hazard?
IS GARLIC A HERBAL MEDICINE FOR DOGS AND CATS?
Yes, it is! Garlic has a very long history of medicinal use. It is useful topically crushed in water to reduce infection in wounds (something done by Roman soldiers!). Taken internally it reduces the tendency of blood to clot and improves circulation so may be suggested for older animals. Garlic has been shown to help control internal parasites, and to improve cardiovascular health. Certain garlic compounds may even have anti-cancer properties. Garlic is a great appetite stimulant so is often added to homemade treats such as liver cake, and many holistic vets recommend making garlic a regular part of dogs diets.
IS GARLIC TOXIC TO DOGS AND CATS?
Garlic is definitely toxic too, as are all members of the onion family (Alliums). These plants contain sulphur compounds which cause oxidative hemolysis if there are more of them in a red blood cell than the antioxidant metabolic pathways in the cell can cope with. Dog red blood cells have low antioxidant activity, and the haemoglobin in cat red blood cells is two to three times more susceptible to oxidative damage than the haemoglobin in other species. Certain dog breeds, especially Japanese breeds, can have genetic differences in their metabolic pathways which make them more susceptible to the toxic effects of onions and garlic. Dogs and cats with an inflamed stomach lining may also be at higher risk of toxicity.
Symptoms of Allium toxicity are initially quiet vague with vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, and lethargy. After a few days gums may be pale, or even yellow due to the breakdown of the red blood cells. Anaemia will cause weakness, a high heart rate, and high respiratory rate. There is no specific treatment, but some dogs and cats recover with supportive care and anti-oxidant supplements.
Garlic should be avoided in pets on anticoagulant drugs, and should be introduced carefully to diabetic pets. Garlic should be stopped a week before planned surgery.
HERBAL OR HAZARD: IT’S A QUESTION OF DOSE
Consumption of 5 g/kg of onions or garlic for cats, or 15 to 30 g/kg for dogs can be toxic. An average garlic clove weighs 3-4g, so your dog or cat would need to eat quite a lot in one go to become sick. There have been cases of toxicity where pets have eaten garlic or onions at lower doses over long periods of time. These have included pets fed human foods where concentrated onion powder is often added for flavour.
If you are using herbal supplements containing garlic ensure you choose one designed for cats and dogs so that you know you are giving a safe dose, and never exceed the recommended dose.
If using fresh garlic a clove (3-4g) appears to be safe for a 20-25kg dog. I usually recommend giving garlic 5 days a week to reduce the risk of long term toxicity.
Dried garlic appears safe given at around 10mg/kg, but always consult a vet before adding any herb or supplement to your pet’s diet.
HYPOALLERGENIC HYPE?
DOG FOOD – HYPOALLERGENIC HYPE?
There has never been more choice in diets for dogs. There are complete raw diets, lightly cooked diets, grain free pouches and kibbles, gently cooked nuggets, freeze dried raw food…not to mention any number of books and websites teaching you how to make your own home cooked or raw diets. Many of these diets claim to be hypoallergenic, but what does that mean, and does your dog really need a hypoallergenic diet?
HYPOALLERGENIC?
Hypoallergenic means ‘low in allergens’ or ‘unlikely to cause an allergic reaction’, but in dog food terms it is fairly meaningless. It is usually used to describe food which don’t contain the most common ingredients which cause allergy or intolerance symptoms in dogs. These food usually have a fixed formula (meaning the same ingredients are used in every batch), and restrict the sources of protein. However, they can still cause illness in food allergic or intolerant dogs. If a dog is sensitive to turkey, then a ‘hypoallergenic’ food based on turkey won’t actually be hypoallergenic for that dog! The most common causes of food allergies in dogs are chicken, beef, dairy, and egg but rather than there being something special about these ingredients, it is simply that they are the most common ingredients in pet foods (because pet food use the leftovers of the most common human foods). Feeding a diet based on ‘exotic’ meats like kangaroo, wild boar, or goat doesn’t mean they will be less likely to develop a food allergy, but they would develop it to the exotic meat instead of chicken.
DOES MY DOG HAVE A FOOD ALLERGY?
Food allergies happen when the immune system misidentifies a protein from food as a threat and launches an immune response. Food allergies in dogs can cause gastrointestinal symptoms (vomiting and diarrhoea) or skin problems (itching, ear infections, skin infections). Food allergies are actually not that common in dogs; vomiting and diarrhoea are far more likely to be caused by a dog eating something it shouldn’t (high fat foods, rubbish, spoiled food etc.) or by a bacterial or viral infection. Dogs can have an intolerance to certain ingredients or diets which physically irritate the gut (the diet might be too high in fibre or fat for instance), but in these cases there is no immune response. Allergies to fleas, house dust mites, food storage mites, and pollens are the most common causes of allergic itching.
GLUTEN FREE? GRAIN FREE?
Grains are a less common cause of food allergies than animal proteins, despite the trend to feed grain free diets. Gluten intolerance is also very rare in dogs, though there is a gluten sensitive enteropathy reported in Irish Setters, and paroxysmal gluten-sensitive dyskinesia (canine epileptoid cramping syndrome/ Spike’s disease) in Border Terriers. Recently grain free diets have been linked to cardiomyopathy in Golden Retrievers. The diets involved have been high in legumes (peas and beans) and it is theorised that this may be reducing the uptake of taurine in affected dogs.
DIAGNOSING AND TREATING ADVERSE FOOD REACTIONS IN DOGS
Blood, saliva, and even hair sample testing are offered to identify the foods which your dog reacts to, but research in both humans and dogs now suggests that these tests are not particularly accurate or useful. If tests aren’t the answer, what will your vet do to diagnose a food allergy?
In the past vets used to recommend home-made elimination diets based on a single novel protein and carbohydrate source. Unfortunately it is getting more difficult to find truly novel ingredients as ‘exotic’ meats such as wild boar and kangaroo, and even alternative carbohydrates such as quinoa or tapioca can be found in mainstream pet foods and treats! Dogs might have to be on elimination diets for up to 3 months and vets did see poor compliance by owners who got bored of cooking, and dogs who got bored of eating the same thing every day. Such a restricted diet also risks nutritional deficiencies if continued long term, however this option can be followed if owners do not want to use processed foods. Care must be taken to avoid contamination of the diet with other ingredients.
We now have access to diets where the proteins (and sometimes carbohydrates) are hydrolysed. The hydrolysis process breaks the protein into pieces which the body can no longer recognise as being a potential threat. Imagine someone builds a Lego chicken, then smashes it up…if you hadn’t seen the completed chicken you wouldn’t guess what the bricks had been; that’s how hydrolysis works. For gastrointestinal symptoms feeding a hydrolysed diet for 2 weeks should improve symptoms. For skin reactions improvements may not be seen for up to 12 weeks. To make a definitive diagnosis you should then feed the original diet to see symptoms return, but understandably owners often skip this step.
It is vital that when using an elimination or hydrolysed diet that your dog eats absolutely nothing else! This might even mean avoiding palatable medicines and worming tablets as these might have meat based flavourings.
If a food allergy is diagnosed and controlled using an elimination diet or hydrolysed diet, a less restricted diet can be introduced slowly – perhaps one of the ‘hypoallergenic’ diets so you aren’t introducing too many potential allergens all at once.
COULD FOOD REACTIONS CAUSE BEHAVIOUR PROBLEMS IN DOGS?
This question is what prompted this month’s blog.
We know that diets with insufficient animal protein can result in a dog lacking essential amino acids which are precursors of neurotransmitters and that this can lead to problem behaviour and difficulty in learning new tasks. Dietary manipulation can be used to make the essential amino acid tryptophan more available for uptake into the brain, this in turn raises the levels of serotonin. But there may be even more exciting links between diet and behaviour on the horizon. There is currently a lot of research being done into the gut microbiome and the gut-brain axis. A diverse gut microbe population may be important in maintaining normal tryptophan metabolism and healthy functioning of the behavioural, central nervous, and gut processes which serotonin controls. Inflammation in the gut cause by a food intolerance, as well as antibiotic use, and even a failure for the gut to get a healthy bacterial population in the first days of life could all cause a poor gut microbiome and predispose to a range of health and behavioural problems. At the moment we don’t know exactly how to manipulate the microbiome to improve physical and mental health, but finding a diet which does not cause inflammation and which supports healthy gut flora seems a sensible start.
For more information on the serotonin raising diet please look here: http://www.breakthroughdog.co.uk/
A good diet is the foundation of health and diet should always be considered when looking for ways to treat chronic physical or behavioural problems. Sadly the answer may not be as simple as grabbing a bag of the latest trendy dog food, or switching to a raw diet.
If you would like to discuss the potential impact of diet on your dog’s physical or behavioural health please book an appointment!